Removed the ALDA 1993 300D
 

I removed the ALDA with a self modified wrench with very little difficulty. As expected got some extra smoke out the tailpipe. The Butt Dynometer says that it's a little quicker from a stop and 0-60 is about 10-12 seconds now. I was kind of expecting something a little more dramatic. My boost is just over 6 psi when I'm just revving it. Would opening up the exhaust help? forgot to add; The EGR has been removed

Install a boost gauge and see what you're getting while under load. I think 10psi is where you want to be under load.

To get meaningful boost numbers the engine really has to be under load as Manny said. The deal is that the turbo is primarily powered by the expansion of gasses across the hot side and there isn't much heat at idle or when free-revving the engine so the boost numbers don't mean much. Given that you have a boost number I'm guessing that you have a gage. If not you'll need one.

You can get a manual boost controller if you want to boost the boost (my Vibrant was bummer and is no longer offered). It just plumbs from the factory wastegate (on the side of the turbo) and the intake manifold. You can tune it on a deserted stretch of road though I did mine on a dyno as Mutt isn't anything like street legal. I wouldn't go over 15 PSI on an otherwise stock engine and you'll run out of fuel pretty quickly so even 15 may be too much. I'm sure Manny's right when he says 10ish is the stock setting.

I'd be surprised if exhaust mods would gain you much unless yours has a restriction of some sort - flattened pipe, loose muffler baffle - that sort of thing. When you get up to much higher HP levels exhaust comes into play but most cars have plenty of exhaust capability for basic mods. Lots of guys do like to make more noise, though - but you're driving a MERCEDES fer Pete's sake!

Good luck

Dan

so 10 or close to ten is normal? I just want to see what I can get away with without stretching headbolts

I think your car achieved 0-60 mph in 10 seconds when brand new. So if you are already there, it seems like you are doing pretty well.

The ALDA doesn't cut fuel on boost, only off boost so there won't be a difference, only the possibility of getting smoke off boost.

So with no ALDA, if on boost and it smokes, you need to turn the boost up more to provide more air to burn the fuel that's creating the smoke. Doing that gets you more power and less smoke. With no ALDA, you have to be mindful of not giving full load until you're on boost.

12.7 is 0-60 spec IIRC.

With a stock turbo, injection pump, injectors, etc, I seriously doubt that the head bolts are the weak point. You're not likely to get the kinds of power levels that would lift the head.

If you can handle the expense I'd suggest that you install the manual boost controller and take the car to a dyno so you can adjust for max rear wheel HP. Make sure the shop has a dyno with a PAU (power absorbtion unit) - this means a Mustang, SuperFlow, or newer DynoJet. Some of the older ones only impart a load during acceleration - not what you want. In our area it's about $100/hr depending on how much input you need from the shop's experts. An hour should let you dial it right in and then you're not guessing. You can monitor EGTs and make sure you're staying safe, too. As I said, you CAN do this on the road but it's hard to monitor everything and still drive safely (a big concern).

Dan

Unless you plan on changing out the elements, you will never gain more than ~10hp at possible cost of increased engine wear from high egt. Dont even bother with boost over 13psi on that turbo. Also manual boost controller will not do anything on a car with p2 flap. You will need to swap out the wastegate controller.

Really not the right car to look for power add ons. If its like my 91 it already has no cat. MB always provides way more airflow than needed, so no real gains there.

If you want power out of a 602 plan on ~2k worth of $$$ and still be way short of what a 606 can provide

I guess I didn't catch that he's running a 602 - don't know much about that engine. The general guidelines are the same but the details make all the difference! More fuel, more boost = more power. How to get there varies.

Dan

Yup. IIRC. 5.5mm elements wont put out much more than 70cc fuel at wot. My IP idle is 75cc :)

There are destructions in the archives for adjusting the boost levels. I don't remember for sure what engine they apply to.

well I spent all morning city and highway driving. getting away from the stop light is much better, no noticeable difference on the highway. Water temp is good, I just get a belch of smoke from the start so I'm gonna leave it alone.

Did you notice your boost pressure? Just curious.

Dan