I need help! What could this be? (pics added)
 

Hey guys, still loving my 1985 300SD but some things seem to have crept (or is it creeped? :P) up. I have a very loud idle on the car so I figured it was the rubber mounts on the air cleaner after reading and seeing that all 3 were not even connected.

Replaced those and in the process, I accidentally knocked off a wire/vacuum hose or something, and then put it back where it goes. Actually two came off I think. One that I think connects to the turbo and one that connects to something else near the turbo. No idea what they are but would like to know. (EGR valve?) (Something on the turbo that connects elsewhere further to the left kinda in front of the battery?)

Also, I replaced the inner seal ring that connects the air cleaner to the turbo charger. The big ring, not the small one. There was no ring for a while actually.

So now to the problems: The car is extremely loud and shakey when I start it up. Then, when I drive it, the turbo at first sounded like one of those semi-trucks. This was before installing the seal ring. It then developed into what I can only describe as a police siren. I then put the seal ring in and still the same. Shakey as hell on startup, Turbo sounds like an ambulance or police siren and the car goes until it gets to about 60-75 and does not really want to go more and at that time the turbo is sounding like a speeding cop car.

So could this be something I did when I knocked the vacuum lines off? (if they are even vacuum lines/wire?) The initial semi truck turbo sound occurred after this and then it developed into a siren.

Any ideas on where and how to start. I have only a bit of knowledge but am still learning. A few years ago you guys helped me get my windows working and door panel off and back on. And it was awesome! I totally meant to come back and log in, but forgot my password, but just now found my passwords and now plan on staying.

Love you guys! :P :P :P :P

Help! :cool:

I don't know but you might want to add some pictures the vacuum hoses that came off and where they are connected to now..... to help people
understand

On the front of your car there should be a sticker which shows the vacuum tube routing. It's small and difficult to read but I had used it on several occasions and it is accurate.

Good luck.

Crept or creeped nice way to put to put "boy what did I screwed up" i'll have to remember that.

Ask and you shall receive.

http://s1.postimg.org/fhhksex33/IMG_0377_1.jpg

Those two, the blue looking hose and the black one with the rubber on it.

Here is another bigger picture.

http://s7.postimg.org/c9z4qyvln/IMG_0379_1.jpg

I probably should not have said rough idle. The car seems to idle fine, the engine is just very shakey and loud. The idle seems to be fine though.

Well there is nothing in the design of your diesel that either to much or the lack of vacuum or electrical power would effect the way the engine runs or idles. The picture you show is of the "egr" or exhaust recycling valve, an item which should be blocked off and discarded. But it is not the problem either. Also, the big difference between tubing and wire is that if it is tubing, (for vacuum) it is always hollow - no wire in vacuum tubing. Wiring is plastic covered usually copper standed wire. If your engine was jittery only after startup for a minute or two I would suspect the glo plugs. If it stumbles after it is warmed up, I would start by replacing the fuel filters. First change the little plastic one down by the injector apparatus which is usually "L" shaped, easy to change, but if you are not fast and if your fuel tank is fuel can quickly dump a big spot of diesel fuel on your driveway. It is hooked to two rubber hoses with little hose clams and can easily be remove with a small screw drive. Like I said, it can leak fast so best to have the fuel tank low or the front of the car up high, like on a steep driveway. I suspect changing that small prefilter might solve your problem. If you don't have one, buy it but buy two of them. Wrap the extra one up in a sandwich bag and keep it in the glove box. That is very important when driving a diesel. Never leave home without one!

If your car is very loud it must be due to a broken exhaust. You can easily find the exhaust and of course it can be very hot, so don't touch it until the engine cools down. So check the exhausr right behind the turbo. That is the exhaust down pipe and it does get a lot of abuse. They are not generally repaired and a new one costs about $150. But when your car is cool and first running with no load, the exhaust can be touched for a few minutes. Use this time to quickly check by feeling around the exhaust with your hand and you will probably feel the leak - it will be warm but not dangerously hot, but be careful anyway. I suspect the exhaust is broken. If the downpipe is OK, well then you will have to get under the car to check the remainder of the system. That is where the big noises come from.

Check your motor mounts and transmission mount. The bolt could just be loose or the mounts need to be replaced ASAP.

Motor Mounts
 

2x......

do you know if the motors mounts have ever been replaced?

Troubleshooting stuff like this is pretty difficult through a keyboard, and photos don't help with the idle/noise issue.

Can you shoot a video of the engine behaving as you describe, and put it on YouTube?

Aside: had you just filled up the tank, and/or had you just added any fuel additive, when this behaviour started?

Bad motor mounts make these cars really noisy - also broken air cleaner mounts, so common that replacement of these has to be considered a regular maintenance item. Air cleaner mounts are super-easy to replace (10 mm on an extension, after removing the filter from the air cleaner) but the air cleaner bracket might also be broken. If that is the case you can cut down a piece of angle iron (old bed frame works well) using a skill saw with a cutoff blade and just lay that across the top to reinforce the bracket. (Have to line up and drill the holes; has to go underneath the turbo oil feed tube, too).

Motor mounts are not all hard to do either- the hardest part of the job seems to be finding good quality parts that will last so be picky.

I too had excessive turbo whistle amd found the u-tube was not fastened tightly enough - use a 10mm socket rather than a screw driver to tighten those clamps, so you can get enough torque to make a good seal.

When was the last time the valves were adjusted? If they have not been done for a long time,
this can cause the engine to shake, and could be one reason for the low power.

I worked on this girls 84 300TD, she came to me saying it lacked power and blew smoke.

Opened the hood and started the engine, and it rocked so violently side to side, wonder it didn`t hit the inner fender.

The valves were so far out of adjustment. it was a wonder it ran. Gave it 3 adjustments between driving it, and each time they needed more adjustment.

Changed the fuel filters and air filter. after that it idled so smooth a glass of water could set on the VC.

Changed the ATF and transmission Filter. the fluid was brown. After the change it helped with the shifting and it really ran better.

Finally swapped in a used set of Injectors and that helped on the smoke some.

So some of these issues could be your problem.

Your EGR probably does not work as it is probably plugged up with goo. So
that would not be siren issue.

The blue vac line goes the ARV Valve, those were used on the 84 and 85 617`s. If the line was eliminated and plugged off will not hurt anything.

Charlie