How to store an OM617 turbo? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

wstetson3 · #1 06-04-2015, 07:11 PM

I have an OM617 turbo that I'm going to pull from the CD as I am going to scrap the car because of the rust. I haven't had any interest in the engine so I was going to pull it and mount it on my new engine stand. I was going to sell it but I haven't had any interest. I thought I might keep the engine in case my N/A engine went out so I guess this is a sign from the diesel gods that I should. Anyway, I'm planning to do some work on the car this weekend. I may get it pulled by Sunday. Have any of you stored an engine? Any advice? It may sit for years, someone may buy it a week after I pull it. It has great compression and I don't want to have any issues later if I do sell it or if I end up needing it in (my soon-to-be manual) coupe. The engine stand is rated at 1250# and I don't think it will be any problem holding it for a length of time. Do I want to fog it? I have heard some say to put a teaspoon of transmission fluid in the cylinders. I guess I should keep the radiator and overflow tank and oil cooler with the engine. Anything else? Thanks for the help.

R-3350 · #2 06-04-2015, 07:38 PM

i would recomend getting some preservation oil aka fogging oil and spraying it into the cylinders by removing the prechambers. probly wouldnt hurt to get some silica desicant and putting it under the valve cover. if you do that remember to block the breather. finally cover the engine to prevent too much dust getting into the nooks and crannies over time. mind you this is what we do in aviation so it might be a bit extreme for your purposes but if you want to keep it indefinitely its a good idea.

wstetson3 · #3 06-04-2015, 07:46 PM

I may keep it indefinitely. I may need it one day and the supply of good used engines will go down quickly. When you say cover, do you like plastic or something else? It will be in the garage, I don't want issues with condensation or critters. The garage is detached and not climate controlled.

diesel friend · #4 06-04-2015, 07:55 PM

also would change engine oil before you pull it

R-3350 · #5 06-04-2015, 08:03 PM

open the oil filler cap and shove some bags of desiccant in there. you can buy it online. that will absorb any moisture out of the engine as long as you plug the breather too. i second the oil change. don't forget to remove the bags in the future before starting it or you might get some "excitement".

t walgamuth · #6 06-04-2015, 08:38 PM

I'd change the oil but not use that dessicant stuff.

Simpler=Better · #7 06-04-2015, 09:20 PM

Put a tarp under it, block off the coolant passages with rubber gloves and zip ties, hose it down with WD40 (get inside the intake too), then rubber glove the intake off and put a tarp on top of it.

Stretch · #8 06-07-2015, 05:07 AM

Nice new engine oil would be kind.

I'd rig up some sort of supports that hold the engine on the support arms and the adapter plate rather than letting the engine sit on the lower oil pan.

If you want to get mega anal remove the rocker arms so all of the valves are closed!

wstetson3 · #9 06-07-2015, 07:53 AM

I was going to leave it on the engine stand. Will that cause any long term issues? Should it be braced at the mounts too?

Stretch · #10 06-07-2015, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstetson3

I was going to leave it on the engine stand. Will that cause any long term issues? Should it be braced at the mounts too?

If you are worried about the long term health of the stand in particular then it is probably worthwhile bracing at the engine mount arms.

There has been some discussion about whether the adapter plate is strong enough to hold the engine for a long time in a cantilever configuration - I reckon it is probably going to be all right if you have at least two bolts going through the adapter plate and into the engine block but if you want a belt and braces solution I'd support at the mounts as well.

I will say that in my experience the only time you want an engine stand is when there's already an engine fitted to it! (Sod's law)

vstech · #11 06-07-2015, 09:07 AM

Before you pull it out of the car, change the oil, run it up to full temp, and drain that oil, and change it again.

Next, drain coolant at the block drains, if rust comes out, you might want to perform a citric acid flush and get the block cleaned out... It's easier while it's wet, than after years have gone by and turned it into cement... BUT the flushing procedure is critical, as you do NOT want any acid left in for years!

Next, as you are pulling it all, don't unhook the oil cooler. Take it out with the motor.

Connect the fuel supply to the return to seal it up.

Unhook all the linkage, cut out the radiator support, and get everything unhooked, then lift it out.

Rubber glove the intake, but use dish washing gloves... Nitrile disintegrates over time.

I would leave fresh coolant in the block, and connect the upper and lower hoses to each other.

The motor is long, and heavy. Sitting on a cheap 1250# stand a long time isn't wise. Build a bracket to attach to the motor mount arms. And support it there. Wood is fine, but not solely from the trans plate.

What about the trans?

mach4 · #12 06-07-2015, 09:49 AM

Aviation procedures can serve as guides. Our engines are not as critical, so some of what they require might be excessive. Here's a link that makes interesting reading

http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications/serviceletters/SL%20L180B%20%2811-13-2001%29/Engine%20Preservation%20for%20Active%20and%20Stored%20Aircraft.pdf

wstetson3 · #13 06-07-2015, 10:05 AM

What about the trans?

It appears to have a bad b2 servo from what I have read. I would love to sell it (and the motor, actually) if someone needs it. Otherwise it will sit in the corner of the garage. I will not need it as I am converting my other car to a manual. I won't need that slushbox either once I get that car converted. Apparently these engines still don't sell well and if I can't get $800 for it, I'll keep it for a spare. It has great compression so I'll keep the engine before I give it away. The transmissions can go fairly cheap as I will never have a use for them once I convert to a manual.

I will do the citrus flush. Good call. I didn't even think about that.

I can cut a birds mouth in some 2x lumber and brace it for good measure. The engine stand seems to be a pretty good unit. The tripod stand I have is certainly not up to the task. I'll sell that to some kid who is working on a Honda motor. It would work fine for a little 4 cylinder.

Kajtek1 · #14 06-07-2015, 10:53 AM

I have lot of toys with engines in them and lot of them have 7 years old oils.
I am talking about equipment that barely runs for 50 hr in 7 years, so bare that in mind.
I like the farmers idea about off season storage "put coffee can over the exhaust and walk away"
Than I live in climate where condensation is not an issue.
So my advise would be draining the oil, leave the plug out and put some moisture absorbing chemicals under the tarp that covers the engine.
Sealed bag would be the best, but might be hard to find in the size.

Simpler=Better · #15 06-08-2015, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kajtek1

I have lot of toys with engines in them and lot of them have 7 years old oils.
I am talking about equipment that barely runs for 50 hr in 7 years, so bare that in mind.
I like the farmers idea about off season storage "put coffee can over the exhaust and walk away"
Than I live in climate where condensation is not an issue.
So my advise would be draining the oil, leave the plug out and put some moisture absorbing chemicals under the tarp that covers the engine.
Sealed bag would be the best, but might be hard to find in the size.

To make a big sealed bag weld shower curtains together with any el cheapo plastic welder hot knife.