Sweet! I love when I hear someone has taken the time to google the possibilities! I hate in this day and age people don't take the 10 minutes to research any project they will be doing.

That is very wise!!! One thing at a time, I can say I am quilty of the same thing. I just get wrapped and don't take the time to back away and breath...I blame it on me being a virgo

Oh and with these glow plugs, they last a LONG time! Just don't install the bradied ground strap on the last plug when you upgrade. Also you don't need to ream the holes with these plugs. Since the loop wire is so large the whole is designed larger in the head and thus the carbon doesn't build up around the plug....not like on my euro I knew nothing about these cars when I got him and of course he was serverly neglected and wouldn't start...so I was told glow plugs...had 2 or 3 that were welded into the head with carbon! Great first experience with glow plugs!

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Not alone again! When I did my first valve adjustment I did the exact same thing....later a member cleared it up for me and explained why....then I got it!

Now after god knows how many, I can get one done in fifteen minutes and blind folded

You also want to make sure the cam is pointed in that direction or towards the oilier tube. There was a huge thread about that and the reasons why...with out that debate happening again...don't ask why lol

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I have in the past recorded starting and acceleration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4emWIsm3NTc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFsvWICVXU4

The car is my SD, so it's a turbo unit.

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83 SD

84 CD

Nice! Thats some great starting. Mine only starts like that when cold and it used to once or twice last year. Also, your acceleration up there seems pretty good - much better than mine I'd say. I will try to make a video of mine at highway speeds for comparison. Its one thing to see videos of acceleration, being in the car obviously makes the experience more visceral so my perception might be skewed.

My glow plugs died today, light wont come on at all. Thought I would be stranded but its was hot after work and with a little additional cranking, she fired up and idled like a boss. That proper valve adjustment really made a big difference, I had no idea how much I was missing this whole time. Thankfully got the new pencil style glow plugs in the mail today, made the connecting cables as well with 10 Gauge wire and circle connectors. I did this because I followed the instructions on the dieselgiant maintenance page. However; while trying to take off the old connections, noticed that one of the nuts (glowplug 4) has worn down edges so my wrenches wont grip around it. The injector lines are also in the way so access is a little limited.
Since it was getting dark, I left it alone for today. Thankfully I m parked by a hardware store, so I can hopefully figure out a way to get that nut and everything first thing in the morning and try the new plugs.
Any advice on how to get a rounded off nut off the back of the glow plug?
In the worst case, I m thinking of disconnecting the lines from either side and then loosening the glowplug itself with the wires attached. Is this possible? Since I wont be using the factory wires, can I just break/cut them?
I probably wont get an answer by early morning tomorrow but figured I d try anyway. Will post photos and get back with developments.

Those little nuts are not suppose to be on there with much strength so all I could recommend is maybe a small pair of pliers or vise grips...but as you said you won't be going back to the older style so it would hurt anything to cut the resistor wires...

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Changed the glow plugs this morning. Took me only 3 hours , primarily because of the stripped/smoothed bolt. Unfortunately, nothing I tried worked so I broke the plastic washer between the two connecting wires which loosened the wires enough to allow me to unscrew the glow plug itself with the wires on. Either way, they all came off after numerous cuts and scrapes. I didnt take the injector lines off since I was parked on the street and didnt want to leave any fuel system holes exposed to dust etc.
My old glow plugs looked fine but for whatever reason, they always needed 2-4 cycles cycles every morning depending on outside temperature. I started the engine cold this morning with the new GPs' and it cranked after one cycle. Its still too early to rejoice since its a hot day and the car started fine. I will post a video tomorrow of a cold start. Fingers crossed. Thank you all for the encouragement and advice. I never thought I d ever fall so much in love with an old boat like my W123 but I did and I m glad there is such a great support community to help with my relationship.

Good to hear! I would take a stop watch and time the seconds the glow plug light stays on. With the upgrade you want to make sure they don't stay on longer then the max glow time...and when the car is warm the light should go off faster.....on the early models the temp sensor for the glow plug relay is in the head....later models its built into the relay...I have seen more then one unplugged..

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http://youtu.be/Qw7DeyAodrs
Video from this morning. Excuse the rattle. I tried soundproofing the doors but in the process, pushed it back far enough to break one of the roller wheels in the metal door strap below the hinge. Found the wheel but no idea how to put it back in since access is severely limited. Hence, the metal strap rattles once in a while. It's not a huge deal at the moment since the door functions fine, it just doesn't stay open or sways if I m on an incline or there's a significant breeze etc.

Starts really nice now! I can't remember if you said you replace your motor/trans mounts or not but it seems like the motor is shaking a bit on start up..

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Cooljay, my motor and tranny mounts were changed in January. I ll admit, the day I changed it, the whole car did seem to shake more than before. I gave it a while for the mounts to settle but I feel like its about the same now in terms of shakiness with the originals. In fact when the originals were removed, they looked alright. I did use Karlyn and febi-bilstein for engine mounts and t mount. My mechanic said aftermarket mounts are generally never as effective as the originals.

That is your issue...tell the mechanic to go screw himself....go buy Phoinex motor mounts they are genuine mercedes....they have the star ground off ...the ONLY mounts to use is phoenix or lemforder...though I have a cheaper t mount on as I couldn't afford a higher dollar one.....may also want to pull an engine shock and check it out...if this is an early 300D there is also sometimes a third mount behind the oil pan...Oh and also the turbo mounts add extra strength...less vibration..

Still 19$...

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 123-241-30-13-M66

I put this in the urgent category....because if that power steering pump pulley drops....it will slice right through the oil cooler line and good buy engine! Check the hose may even already have wear...just showed my friend in town that his brand new purchased 300D turbo has the oil cooler lines rubbing through...

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Engine shake at idle is generally due to differences in the fuel injection. Injectors or delivery valves are usually responsible, but if you have an air leak / fuel leak that may also contribute. Worst case is low compression due to engine wear. New or rebuilt or cleaned/tested injectors need to have the opening pressure set to fall within a 5 bar range. I'd start by sending your injectors to Greazzer:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/323971-fuel-injector-service.html

If that doesn't entirely fix the problem, then rebuilding the delivery valves would be my next step.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

^^ I would also throw on that list to adjust the fuel pressure relief valve spring as well...

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I have actually been talking to Greazzer about an injector rebuild and the pressure relief valve spring. Just need to save a little first and then plan a trip somewhere so I can leave the car parked while he rebuilds the injectors. Never heard of those mounts but the reviews sound great. Plus, can't argue with that price.
How are they so cheap? Anonymity? Cheaper production process? I trust your suggestions since I assume you ve used them. I think next on my list will be mounts, injector rebuild and the spring. Thank you both for helping and caring.
Cooljay, the mounts I got came in very cheap looking plastic packaging and had rubber molding residue around the edges, which made it look very cheap but I didn't think much of it. Figured it's probably made somewhere cheaper just like everything else and aesthetics aren't their prime concern. Guess I should have asked you guys first. Thanks again.

I would say cheap as in rubber quaility. I had uro mounts, and they collapsed as soon as weight was applied....looked like the 30 year old ones I just took off....soon as I changed to Phoenix the engine sat back where it was suppose to and the mounts didn't collapse...

This is a good read on mounts...

Motor Mount Source and Replacement Questions - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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