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  #16  
Old 06-12-2015, 07:51 PM
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I keep records on my time slips of EGT, RPM, and boost - assuming I remember to look. My race operation isn't data logger intense - this is just fun for me. When I don't have anything else to spend on I'll consider it though.

BTW - the intake temp sensor/readout (Auber) arrived today and I've started the installation. New hole is in the dash and I'm in the process of wiring. I have the thermocouple installed in the intake already.

Dan

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  #17  
Old 06-12-2015, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
About 3600. I have some shorter tires and I might install them for July as we're running a 1/2 mile track as an experiment. I expect I'll go thru the lights in 3rd. for the 1/2 mile. And remember, I'm pushing a barn door down the track - even a Mercedes sedan is slippery compared to the brick I'm driving but it fits the class.

Not to rain on your parade but I highly doubt your 300SD will do 100. We see it at the track all the time - "My GPS says I'll go XXX.XX MPH so this is just a formality". Then they get actual speeds with calibrated clocks and it ain't so. Never fails. 100 MPH on a flat level road (the track actually has a slight rise in the middle) is a major accomplishment. While I want to continue to improve I'm actually pretty proud of my little 101.

Dan
Well, having owned and driven several since 1985 I can assure you that they will easily do 100mph based on the speedometer. I believe MB factory spec'd the top speed to be 109. Of course 10% error is possible.

Even a well tuned W116 SD will show 100. Heck, Dr Bert's 300SD would do 110+ if I recall.

How many miles has that OM617 gone before you did the swap? Red line is around 4600 rpm but I think the torque peak might be closer to where you are running. I'd still try shorter tires on that brick.
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2015, 09:51 PM
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The odo showed 217K and the PO admitted that it had died a couple of years before I got it. However he didn't drive very far - I know where he lived and where he worked and they weren't very far apart. It seems to run really well (starts well, good oil pressure, etc) so I don't expect any serious issues with it.

That said, some day I'd love to build a new one from the bottom up so that I know all the details that are inside there. That's some $$ down the road (track?).

From my time at the track and my years of dyno work I can assure you that speedos are consistently off, and indicated is always more than actual by varying amounts with the percent of offset increasing with wheel speed. I've even done track work with a calibrated 5th. wheel to determine actual speeds and that reinforced the offset. And no, the Mercedes (a 240D that the EPA owned) was no better than the rest of them. Part of our protocol was to assure that the vehicles had the factory-specified tires and final drive ratio so we weren't measuring taller or shorter tires or gears.

We used to run occasional police car calibrations as a favor to the cops. As you may know, police cars come with calibrated speedos from the factory - but even those were off though better than the run-of-the-mill cars. We posted a little correction chart on or next to the speedo for the cops. (wondering out loud here) I wonder if, in these days of radar in all the cars, if they still equip the cop cars with calibrated speedos?

That's why we have a track and calibrated clocks - otherwise we'd all just use our speedos or GPS and report the speeds to the Association.

Dan
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2015, 12:04 AM
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One thing that really ages on the 617 is the valve and IP timing due to chain stretch/wear.

The torque curve gets all screwed up when that happens. These cars were very good performers in the day. I'm amused at all the kids trying to make HP when they are far from even meeting stock specs re timing, injector spray pattern, fuel pressure...
"Yea, throw a KN air filter and a straight pipe exhaust on it" Ha!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceTn-bNAre8

And, that's with a 2.88 ratio pumpkin. I'd suspect that's enough torque to go 100mph easy enough.
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  #20  
Old 06-13-2015, 08:38 AM
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I need to make arrangements with Greazzer to take the truck down to SC and have him do the timing with his timing light system (maybe an AVL though I don't remember for sure). I'd like to dial in a couple more degrees and see what that does.. I think I should be able to mark both the stock setting (already done) and the 2* advanced location so I can try both.

When I had the engine partially apart I checked the timing chain as best as I could and it looked OK. I'm guessing it must have been replaced at one point in it's life - though it probably would be a good plan to put that on the list of "to dos".

I know the drip method is OK but the light is much more precise and this IS a race truck!

Dan
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  #21  
Old 06-13-2015, 09:31 AM
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Sounds like you are referring to this EPA test. Document Display | NSCEP | US EPA

I see by your other posts you know about data recording.

If the valve springs are losing height, seat pressure will be low and valves will float.
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  #22  
Old 06-13-2015, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Stokes View Post
I need to make arrangements with Greazzer to take the truck down to SC and have him do the timing with his timing light system (maybe an AVL though I don't remember for sure). I'd like to dial in a couple more degrees and see what that does.. I think I should be able to mark both the stock setting (already done) and the 2* advanced location so I can try both.

When I had the engine partially apart I checked the timing chain as best as I could and it looked OK. I'm guessing it must have been replaced at one point in it's life - though it probably would be a good plan to put that on the list of "to dos".

I know the drip method is OK but the light is much more precise and this IS a race truck!

Dan
It sounds like you have not done any performance work on the engine, just bought a used 300D and swapped the engine? I thought the lack of performance posts on your build thread was to not give away your bag of tricks to the competitors. Cmiiw, that build thread was mostly on body work, paint, how to shut the engine off etc and very little on engine performance.

What's the point of a race truck?
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  #23  
Old 06-13-2015, 03:15 PM
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The first priority was to get Mutt running and down the track. The 617 has a set of Greazzer's "315" Monarch nozzles and a T03 compressor with trimmed wheels by a guy with experience doing that.

The long block is as built - a great starting point. Now it's time to gather up the knowledge and the goodies to start making more power.

Notice that now that we're going down the track I'm now looking for power. My usual MO.

Let me ask a question: Where's your performance build thread? How fast have you gone on a track (drag, LSR, road race, etc)? I'm having a hard time caring about your smart a$$ comments when you evidently haven't done squat other than keep a Benz running. You clearly have no clue how much effort, time, and money goes into a performance build to get it to the point mine is as/of today. The people I care about and respect all understand and have given me hearty congratulations on the build to date.

You've gotten on my last nerve - and I'm VERY even-tempered.

Dan
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  #24  
Old 06-13-2015, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
Well, having owned and driven several since 1985 I can assure you that they will easily do 100mph based on the speedometer. I believe MB factory spec'd the top speed to be 109. Of course 10% error is possible.

Even a well tuned W116 SD will show 100. Heck, Dr Bert's 300SD would do 110+ if I recall.

How many miles has that OM617 gone before you did the swap? Red line is around 4600 rpm but I think the torque peak might be closer to where you are running. I'd still try shorter tires on that brick.
My 240 with euro 300d NA and 307 gearing would run 100 in fourth or fifth gear. All day any day. A turbo in good condition and the 307 gear should run 100 to 110 as suggested above with an auto ...probably more with a stick.

your little truck should be a little tougher to push as its a brick and quite possibly has more frontal area. The 123 has a drag of .47 or so but its pretty compact in frontal area by todays standards. I think you have some fueling issues holding you back. Once you get enough fuel you'll probbly benefit from the intercooler.

Don't get discouraged. You're almost there!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #25  
Old 06-13-2015, 04:33 PM
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I think that the 300SD had a factory-rated top speed of 107 MPH or so. Of course, that is with a brand-new engine.

I think that Doktor Bert had his 300SD to 115-120+ MPH after he swapped in the 2:47 rear end.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

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  #26  
Old 06-13-2015, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
My 240 with euro 300d NA and 307 gearing would run 100 in fourth or fifth gear. All day any day. A turbo in good condition and the 307 gear should run 100 to 110 as suggested above with an auto ...probably more with a stick.

your little truck should be a little tougher to push as its a brick and quite possibly has more frontal area. The 123 has a drag of .47 or so but its pretty compact in frontal area by todays standards. I think you have some fueling issues holding you back. Once you get enough fuel you'll probbly benefit from the intercooler.

Don't get discouraged. You're almost there!
Holy sha-MOLEY! That's some drag!
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #27  
Old 06-13-2015, 06:33 PM
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The coefficient of drag on the S-10 is estimated at 0.50, frontal area at 26 sq. ft. It's small for a truck (say, compared to a F150) but still is a brick, and a semi-large one. The next-generation S-10 is smoother (just look at the leading edge of the hood - GM started thinking about aero) but one of those is out of my price range.

The HP calculations say I'm making 130 - slightly more than stock as expected. As I said, still more to do. I'm a little annoyed at myself for not getting my HP numbers off the dyno - next time.

Nope - not discouraged at all. I'm about where I expected to be. I attended this same rodeo with my 250 CID inline six Camaro so I know the drill.

Dan

Last edited by Dan Stokes; 06-14-2015 at 10:34 AM.
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  #28  
Old 06-13-2015, 08:55 PM
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One suggestion I would like to make, if you are open, would be to play around with valve event timing. It a cheap, easy way to shift the torque peak around the rpm range.
It's a juggling act.
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  #29  
Old 06-13-2015, 11:02 PM
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Now it is time to turn up the governor, open the PCs up and advance the timing. Advancing the cam would not hurt either.
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  #30  
Old 06-14-2015, 10:42 AM
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Oh, I'm open to everything. It's just that the one poster was being critical and not making any useful suggestions. I'll need to look into cam timing - not sure what Ill need to do with that. Always up for learning. So thanks for the suggestion!

Thinking I might want to mess with the cam timing when I do the cam chain?

Dan

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