cv boot clamp removal
 

My rear axle is leaking from the small inner clamp of the CV boot.
The rest of the boot isn't torn, but has some cracks.
The old band isn't tight enough or maybe it's damaged under there.
How do you remove the old clamps without damaging the boot?
Or maybe I'll just use some sealant.


Thanks,
Jeff

In the picture you see the un-crimped clamp on the left and the pic on the right showing the Crimping Tool being used to crimp and tighten the clamp.

Notice that the Crimping Tool looks like a Nail Cutter/Nipper that you can buy at a hardware store.

I would look at the clamp and see if it can be crimped somemore to tighten it up; but, before you do that you need to replace the Oil that was inside of it.

If you want to remove the clamp you can stick a screwdriver into the area that was crimped and spread it apart.
Or if you want to replace the Clamp you can use a Diagional type Wire Cutter and cut through the crimped loope or with extreme care cut through the cripmed loop with something else.

Again remember you need to repalce the Oil that was inside.

D911,
Thanks, as always for the good info!
I was reading some of the the oil/grease threads on CV joints.
I read that Hunter just uses modern CV joint grease.
Any recommendations on which lubricant to use?

Thanks,
Jeff

Having cracked boots, I would replace whole boot.
I bet $1 the boot is torn under the clamp.

Rebooted/reman axles are about $225 each.
My plan is to regrease and reclamp this one and keep an eye on it.

I am redoing the entire rear end: trailing arm, subframe bushings,
center bearing, both flexdiscs and am putting in a 2.88 diff.
I got all MB parts for the rubber and have hit my budget!

The axles I'm putting in I pulled from the JY with the 2.88 and
they have 100K less than the ones on the car now.
They really pretty good except for that one small leak.

Jeff

cracked boots on these axles leak due to RUST on the axle shaft, and or the can.

since the axle is out, it's fairly simple to take off the clamp... destroying the clamp... and push the boot back and inspect the shaft for pits and rust. if found, wire brush them, and paint... but the boot will have a bunch of rust flakes imbedded in the mating surface, so it'll likely leak still

NEW boots come with fresh grease, and new clamps, so that's the route I'd take. astoria flexx boots are fantastic. around $25 each end of the axle, and can be installed with a simple funnel... but the boot expander makes it CAKE to install (and I've got one in the tool rental forum!) if you have an air compressor.

pull the clamp, and look at the boot and shaft and decide for yourself.

I was buying German made "rebuild" kits for about $45 from autohousaz for different model, so I would assume you can buy it for yours in this price range.
This way or the other, if my suspicious about crack under clamp checks, you are for new boots. Bubble gum will not do.

astoria flex gun
 

Thanks John, didn't even think of renting the gun.
So, the gun can go over the cans or do I need to cut those off?
Is there a DIY you can point me to?

Jeff

Re-clamp removal =>

I've done this before

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...oot-clips1.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...oot-clips2.jpg

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...oot-clips3.jpg

If you have annular axles some tips are given here

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/352107-w201-annular-axle-re-boot-much-easier-than-w123-homokinetic-axles.html

Homokinetics? Good luck you are on your own!

If the Axle is still on the Car it is going to be difficult to pace the inside of that can with Grease.

If only the Clamp is the issue it is actually easier to get a cheap Plastic Syringe that they use to inject Meat with flavors and fill that with Oil and stick the needle between the axle and the Rubber Boot (don't poke a hole in the Boot); inject the Oil and then tighten the clamp.

What Oil to use is in one of the other threads on Axle rebooting.

Note that when I re-booted My Axles I used Grease but that was a Cardone rebuilt Axle that already had Grease in it and I only added more and made sure it was paced good and had extra grease in the Boot. That is easy to do with the boot off.

Personally I would not do it this way as stretching Dorman Universal or Astoria Flexx Boots over the Cans instead of taking them apart is easier that doing it the Mercedes Manual way as depicted in bostnbenz thread.

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/benz/boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
http://superturbodiesel.com/benz/boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
1baddsm.com*-*This website is for sale!*-*1baddsm Resources and Information. he has other things

But, the bostnbenz thread will give an idea of how well they need to be packed in grease.

Also the Kits to use the Stock Type Boots are expensive and at the same time FEBI and Myele Boots may or may not last as they have gone to the dark side concerning some of the parts they sell.

Yes, the astoria boots go on over the cans, no removal needed.

Cleaning the cans and axles and painting them is very wise though.

Diesel giant.com has a pictorial on rebooting the axles with the astoria boot gun.

OK, I am convinced! Might as well do this right
John, I will PM you about renting the gun.
The car will just have to stay on those jack stands a little longer.
Can't wait to get this all together and go for a spin.

Thanks for all the input everyone.

Jeff

Mercedes Axle Shaft Boot Replacement

http://www.astoria2000.com/main.html I call the number, and order the FB3000 boots, and an extra small clamp... I always seem to mess up the small end.