Excellent! Thanks for the ample feedback and thoughtful replies!

Maxbumpo: The fellow said that his mechanic had adjusted the valves, and we also laughed about the frequent interval of adjustment (10-15k, correct?). I'll have the bent wrenches and feeler gauges at the site, but this car really hasn't been sitting or unmaintained for too long I don't think. Thanks for the heads up!

Barry12345: That sounds like an excellent sequence of events, I will research cleaning the lift pump before my foray. I'm also using the factory OM617 engine manual, so I assume it's in there. There is an awesome local shop here, Omega Motors (honest, family run outfit) that can get most things same day at a good price. They also have a yard of assorted Benzes.



So in light of these comments, and helpful PM's I've received, here's the amended Plan-of-Attack:

1. Pull Injectors (My 27mm that fit on my Monark Rebuilt injectors wouldn't fit on the injectors in the car. Are the return nipples preventing full engagement?) -Dismantle, boil, clean injectors and hard lines later on.

2. Pull Fuel Filters, open to investigate media and document.

3. Pull lift pump and clean; reinstall.

4. Pull ball and spring from check valve.

5. Run compression test and Run cleaner with open check valve to waste. (Kero, w/diesel purge, ATF and polyethylamine (PEA)) (Tomorrow will be around 90F, that should help the whole thing.) If this doesn't work I will try something more aggressive, but I am trepidatious about harming the o-rings etc, with something so aggressive for a prolonged period. Use cleaner to also do wet compression, adjust valves if needed, if not just add measured amount of cleaner to each cylinder to sit. Reflush once before leaving, collecting waste for further inspection.

Point-to-Ponder:
I also wonder about the Vac Shut-off perhaps being stuck on.

__________________
72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/

If it were my car then NONE of the above. I would do the following until I know how the car performs.

1) Run diesel purge to clean injectors, IP etc.
2) Run a bottle of diesel under the hood for the time being, may be for 50 miles.
3) Run diesel from tank afterwards.
4) Establish a baseline and then see what happens.
5) If it smokes a lot then it is unlikely to be caused by residual of WVO.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I do not believe there is anything in your injection pump that a reasonable strong solvent like laquer thinner can hurt. The valves in the lift pump are plastic though. So they should perhaps not soak too long. Only thing to check is the later 84? and all 85s had an electric idle control or something different I though on the injection pump . I may be totally wrong about that at the same time.

If so I do not know what that pump portion of it is made of. Or even if it would be involved if soaking internally. I suspect not. Just not at all sure of the 85 pumps other than there is nothing inside them the laquer thinner will hurt. Anyways you will have to use your own judgement and indicators if your solvent mix is working well. Using it around the lift pump internals first may give some sensible indication.

Depending how long the wvo has set in the system is important. I know it turns into a low grade type of glue eventually.

I personally would not clean the injectors yet. They may respond well and clean if a little dirty with the high pressure fuel they are going to see plus a cheap tank additive. In my cheapskate way just keeping expendatures as low as practical until more is known. If that engine had not fired up at all another more serious approach would have been indicated. You where lucky.

Luckily the engine did fire up that once. To me it proved the injectors where not really clogged up so much they would not work or deliver enough fuel to run. Plus of course the piston rings where not glued in the lands . Or the cylinder walls not seriously scored..In other words a wvo car that has a good chance of running well again.

At this point it almost looks like a good cleanout of the fuel system will get you underway. EX wvo cars really can benefit from a good fuel system cleanout. Without one sporatic problems may arise later. As well as initially.

The best of all is this is more a sweat equity type of approach . Or at least to me a better that a big dollar approach. You just clean everything very well before a final evaluation. Plus with a little luck and little of anything more if required you are back to normal.

Try to find a new valve kit for the lift pump. They are pretty cheap. This is not because of the wvo issue as much as those valves do wear out over time and lower available fuel pressure in the process.. They are fairly cheap as well. Just something that should be done when you are in there anyways and simple to do.

My post is always BTDT. If I have not done it before then I always put a disclaimer again it. If one does not know what kind of solvent, mix ratio would do to the IP then please please do not recommend it. WVO in the fuel system would NOT turn into gluey stuff or chicken skin. There is NO air in the system inside compression engine, so no polymerization. WVO will always be WVO inside the fuel system. WVO in the fuel tank will turn into chicken skin as it is exposed to air. A little knowledge is dangerous. Even if fuel system is opened, there is not enough air for polymerization to take place. Once all the O2 is used up it will stop. How much air you think will be in the fuel system, 500ml? Very little.

If the IP is opened to air on both sides for a LONG time then WVO inside may turn into chicken skin.

__________________
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Yes I realise this. The attempt to get a sitting wvo car running before cleaning the fuel system may pull some of the more gunky old stuff from the tank into the more closed portions of the system. I even suspect this may have happened to the lift pump valves of his car.

There also have been reports of some people finding real messes in closed fuel system areas. This may just have been particles and fats that had accumulated over time. Also people have reported chunks of foreign material goop coming out of injection pumps. Using soaking solvents.

I do not consider a simple diesel purge cleaning to be much other than a superficial cleaning. It takes time for a solvent to break down stuff. Also below seventy degrees most chemical action drops off seriously and progressively more so as the temperature declines.

I also do not recommend approaches that are not pretty safe. The use of laquer thinner was not copied or plagerized from anyone.

Years ago I was working on a six cylinder 114 coupe with two zenith carbs. The internal idle passages where totally obstructed with dried gas residue. So I thought here we go again. Knock them down clean them and kit them.

Then I remembered laquer thinner dissolves old dried gas deposits. So I separated the fuel line in the foot well area. Stuck a hose in a quart of laquer thinner and cranked the car.

I had emptied the fuel bowls by running the car at medium revs until it quit beforehand. Then I judged when the bowls where full of thinner and pulled the idle adjusters. There was no fuel flow for awhile. Then the first one started to drip and I put the adjuster back in. It was quite awhile later until the second carb idle passage let go. Once again I inserted the needle a little and let them both sit for quite awhile.

Anyways in the process I found that the gas engine also seemed to run well on the laquer thinner. I never would try to run a diesel on it though. I then pretty much assumed that a lot of carb cleaners had a good proportion of laquer thinner in them.

With a few carb tweeks after restoring the gas feed. That car ran better than it ever had in my possession. So I have used this on and off on many large and small carbs with good results over the years .

It has made me believe that all the carbs that I have either kitted over the years or have paid to be done on a tune up basis. Might have been a lot of time and money wasted. Certainly it will not work on every situation. At the same time it will work well in many of them.

I initially thought the plastic floats might be attacked. Yet on testing they seemed unaffected. Then the possibility of gaskets being dried out and any o rings might be attacked . Once again no obvious issues ever emerged.

So the long haul picture is it has seemed pretty safe so far. Also a lot of 123 injection pumps have been soak cleaned mounted on the engine with various solvents in the last few years with decent results. Nobody mentioned a negative scenario.

Probably much the same as an injection pump taken into a pump service shop gets after partial knock down. Although I do not know what cleaning solvent they are using. Most those shops also will not service an injection pump that has been run with wvo.

The older in line injection pumps even have far less to be concerned about than Carbs. Some separation of the contents of the wvo component must make their way through the filters as liquid and separate and clump up in the base of the injection pumps.

Chances are it may be the increased temperatures experienced in the base of the injection pumps that allow this to occur. My guess this will almost be present to some degree depending on where the old vegetable used oil is acquired from.

What has surprised me is the lack of obstructed return lines reported as a result. Although since this would not impact running ability it could be being missed. That I also do not follow the wvo issues is another factor.

One last thing that has been observed. The actual piston being seized in the lift pump on cars sitting fairly long term with wvo in them. That is why I recommend the piston and bore be examined when the lift pump is apart. Or at least piston movement and return is quick enough. No indication of excessive return drag.

My best guess is that you are right basically. Yet some chemical reaction perhaps between the vegetable oil and the contaminates may still be reacting without oxygen. Or any moisture in the oil may be sacrificing itself. Hard to say what the cause is but some lift pumps using wvo are still turning up from time to time frozen solid. Maybe with some thought I could figure out the exact reason but on certain things the end effect being present is all that interests me. I certainly do not have all the answers. You are also right to question things. I really also apply a lot of thought to things myself.

Interesting input all around!

So perhaps I will pull the lift pump and let it's condition dictate the next Choose-Your-Own-Adventure page!

How much of a bear is the 30mm nut?

I'm glad it will be a hot one today, as far as getting grease going, better bring some people water too! (Not DI!)

As far as lacquer thinner, it seems to be a blend as well, here are two producers "recipes":







Well, I'm off to see the Wizard! Wish me luck!


(As a bonus I found out that since it was a Freightliner Exec. car; which obviously has close ties with Mercedes, it should have had immaculate maintenance under their care! The local shop sees a few of these apparently!)

__________________
72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/