Terminal Damage to Axle Boots
 

Axle Boots have been looking pretty good. However, suddenly the drivers side inner has a hand sized hole in the front. Can't see it from the rear.

The car is an '82 300CD I bought a few years ago to learn about Diesels.

In that, with the help of this form, it has done me well. I still value your

opinions.

I have checked my options

Replacement Axle from Pelican is $101+ Shipping

Just boots & new Crimp tool is ABOUT $180 + Shipping

And then ...there is the R&R.

I have tried to avoid the "Stealer".

A Kit with all the parts & tool is $150 + Shipping

I am asking the educated experienced folk of this forum

What would you advise? My axle is good, no noises. I have read that

some replacement axles have the hard metal removed, good for 5 yrs .

Been a backyard wrencher all my life VWs, Jaguars, Porsches (Air cooled)

Chevys Fords and Benz. The work isn't the question.

Which choice will end in the best repair..in your opinion?

I await your learned opinions.

Thank you so much for all your previous help.

Waldo

Rebooting with stretch boots has always been my choice. I have not had good luck with aftermarket axles. Most are machined wrong and are of poor quality. Junk yard axles are ok but expect to go thru several combinations of shims at the differential to get them to fit properly.
The shim is specific to each axle/differential. When you remove your axles do not get them mixed up.
Early axles are machined "left" and "right" and must not be swapped. This is clearly stated in the factory service manual.

The Astoria Flexx Boot system is the way to go. It requires a special tool to install them correctly but several forum members have them available for rental in the tools for rent section.

Reman axles are crap. If yours can be saved, do it.

If only one Boot is ripped in theory you only need to replace one Boot. The Rubber on the Stock Boots is too thick to be stretched and to replace them is complicated.

Homokinetic AXLE Boot Link cutting the CANS using Stock Boots boostnbenz
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/benz/boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
http://superturbodiesel.com/benz/boostnbenz.1baddsm.com/DIY/CVboots/
1baddsm.com*-*This website is for sale!*-*1baddsm Resources and Information. he has other things

That being said you need to identify what type of Axles you have. If you look under the Car at the part of the Axle that sticks into the Differential and you see an Cylindrical Metal part with about 6 Bolts going thru that you have an Annular Axle. Boots in the Annular Axles are easy to change and don't require any stretching of the Boots so you can use the Stock type boots if you want to.

With the other type Homikinetic Axles both ends of the Axle as viewed from under that Car has what I call Cans on both ends of it. Meaning both ends look similar and there is no Bolts going through them.

The Axle re-booting issue has been well covered in the Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

The Dorman Uni-fit Boots 614-001 can be had at Autozone and other local Auto Part Stores where I am for about $16. It comes with Clamps and in indequate volume packet of Grease (if you use grease you will need to buy more) and comes with 2 Clamps.
I found the Clamp Tool for Dorman type clamps locally fore about $11.

It is not uncommon for someone to rip a boot while trying to stretch and install them. So I think the Cost and availablilty of the Boots can be an issue.

I have Homokinetic Axles and installed 4 Dorman Boots and used CV Joint Gease as the lube. The Cone type tool for me was what was reliable.
My thread installing CV Axle Boots
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/317950-cv-boot-installation-problems-dorman-pneumatic-cone-type-boot-installation.html

For the Oetiker Clamps that come with the Astoria Flexx Boots people have been useing a Nail Nipper/Cutter or a Tile Cutter that looks the same. See Pic.

You can use this tool, but it does not perform the same task.
The correct tool, keeps the crimp flat, generating the correct torque.:D

And the correct tool is less expensive than the nipper pliers...

Your info is of course valid; but, concerning the Nail Nipper/Cutter I am passing on what others and Myself have done and what worked.

I bought one Nail Nipper for $4 and the other for $0.99 at a 99 Cent store.
When I looked at the real Oetiker clamping Tool on the Internet it was around $30 each, but there are different companies that make similar or different Tools spicifically built for the same job. Some of the Tools you can hook a Torque Wrench to.

When I replaced the Hose only on My Oil Cooler Hoses I used Oetiker type Clamps on the Oil Cooler End of the Hoses (2 clamps per hose) and used the Nail Nipper/Cutter to crimp the Clamps with total success and no leaks.

Keeping in mind that my Oil Cooler hoses are under a lot more pressure then the Axle Boots are going to experience it should not take much camping force to seal an Axle Boot.

I used the Dorman Clamps on Dorman Axle Boots and the Tool for that has no facility for any sort of proper torque and infact the Clamps are not as wiide as the Astoria Oetiker type clamps.
Also I used CV Joint Grease and that decreases the chance of leaks.

In Post #34 I posted a pics of the real Oetiker Tool being used.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/368111-new-oil-line-seeping.html

Waldo, I'm not an expert, but just did mine a few weeks ago '85 300D. Mine were the homokinetic variety. I can't give you a step-by-step procedure, but it's quite the job and I don't want to discourage you. The diff cover needs to come off, the cans on the axle need to be cut off, the inner spider needs to be pulled off (it's on their good). The 6 bearings that fall out need to be found after rolling across the floor. New cans (protective sleeve) need to be installed and then crimped together. I removed my rear shocks to allow more access to pulling out the axles. I'm not a expert by no means it took me 3 days to complete. It's possible the way to go is the procedure of stretching new boots to replace old one's. Good luck I do have some pictures if interested.

Until you can get to it, I suggest wrapping over the hole w/ silicone self-fusing tape (any hardware store). I have done that for axle boots and ball joints. That could even be a permanent solution, but suggesting that would set some people off here.