1984 300d OM617 into '82 300td Swap Questions
 

Hi All,

Picked up a great body '82 300TD over the weekend for $600. (Doesn't run, so guess i'm not in the cheap wagon club) haha.

Pics:

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...p/IMG_0116.jpg

http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...p/IMG_0119.jpg

Unfortunately the PO overheated it and cracked the head. I have had no luck finding a wagon head... So SLS is going to be deleted (though I prefer KISS rule anyway).

I am going to swap my entire 300d '84 drivetrain into the '82 wagon, then scrap the sedan (too much rust issues)


I've started into the engine and rear end swap and had a few technical questions:

1. I've noticed that the vacuum setup is different. The '82 had the vacuum junction block (EGR?) on top of the valve cover. The '84 has what looks like electrical/vacuum switching valves on the passenger side in front of the wheel wheel.

2. Tachometer swap issues, '82 has balancer pickup, '84 has flywheel pickup.

3. I'm swapping the 2.88 diff into the wagon, along with bilstein shocks and 300sd springs. It would be so much easier if I could just swap the whole subframes, brakes and all. Is the wagon subframe same as sedan?

Anyone swap a newer '84+ OM617 into an older OM617 body (<'83) or can offer advice??? Should I swap the '84 vac system into the '82? I have the EGR disabled.

Appreciate any other advice! Thanks!

Why 300SD springs? Will they fit?

The wagon's rear lower control arms may be different from both the 300SD and the sedan, in that the mount for the SLS strut won't accept / fit the shock. If you can swap the sedan subframe assembly over, you may resolve that problem. I think it will fit just fine. Now, how about the upper mount for the SLS hydraulic struts, will that accept the shock?

In my book, fixing the SLS would be much easier and simpler than swapping rear subframe assemblies (drive shaft, hydraulic brake lines, parking brake lines, differential mount, front subframe bushing mounts, getting shocks to fit, getting the right combination of springs, spring pads, and shocks so that ride height and ride quality is acceptable....

I understand that you think the head issue means getting rid of the SLS is the solution, but you could also fit an electric pump to supply the hydraulic pressure for the SLS. Search your local junkyard for convertibles with hydraulic tops, scavenge the electric pump and a relay to run it, rig a switch in you glove box or dash to energize the pump "as required" and away you go...

Another way: remove the head and have a machine shop check it out, they may be able to repair a crack in an iron head.

Hey maxbumpo, thanks for the advice!

First, I'd rather this thread not turn into a SLS repair/convert debate.

The conversion has been done before, I have done my homework on it and will eventually replace the 300SD springs with new aftermarket w140 S600 lowering springs w/HD bilstein sedan shocks. Need to get the swap done quickly to free up work space.

The 85 300SD springs gave me a 1" lift, correcting the ride height on my sedan. They are noticeably thicker coiled and higher rate. I'm hoping for level with no load in my wagon, until I can get the new w140 springs in.

The PO had the head welded by a machine shop, but it failed. Head is scrap. I will post a For Sale in the classifieds for the removed SLS parts soon.

I want a dead reliable/simple TD (4 speed manual, 240D manual hvac, and possibly 240 manual window regulators going in too).

I wonder if anyone has considered Nivomat "auto-adjusting" springs, like in my 2002 T&C minivan. You can find info online. It "pumps up" by using normal road vibrations (via check valve?). You may have to drive a mile for it to establish ride height if a load caused the rear to sink overnight, but otherwise works well and is a neat and simple leveling solution. Many vehicles use these now, so might find one that fits or can be adapted. They are wider diameter than normal shocks, but not as thick as air pump-up type.

Re engine swaps, I did the reverse, i.e. an older engine (1982?) into my 1984. You will need to keep the sensors for your vehicle as much as possible. That means installing the front tach pickup. I am surprised that isn't on the 1984 engine, since both my 1984 & 1985 cars have one, even though it isn't used (cable goes to holder where tach amp would plug in, probably installed for dealer diagnostics). Most other sensors that varied are for EGR, which you aren't using.

The 1984 engine may these that you won't use:
temp sensor at fwd L side of head (for EGR box)
IP rack position sensor (for EGR box)
Switch on top of valve cover (cuts off AC when accelerating, I think). The similar vacuum switch on your 1982 valve cover is for EGR (I think).

But, my 1984 is a CA car, so your engine may vary.

Hi Bill!

Thank you for the info!

I've had a Nivomat shock equipped car in the past ('04 Caddy SRX) and they were great! Great ride and never had problems with the rear squatting under load after you've started moving. Never sank overnight with the load either!

Finding a Nivomat shock that would fit would be ideal, ride could be maintained (original springs remain) and load carrying would not sink the rear. IIRC, didn't the volvo 240d wagon have Nivomats?

Another option could be Monroe Load-adjust shocks, they have a coil spring on them and function much the same. Hold load.

Because of the SLS, we all know that the w123 rear control arms will hold the weight. I've seen some trucks break their shock mounts using load adjust shocks.

Re wiring: My '84 is a September 84 late built and got me with some '85 features (smaller crank bore hole for pilot bearing comes to mind...) Still has the air cleaner above the manifolds though.

Hmm, I think I would need to use the '82 tach too no?