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  #1  
Old 06-27-2015, 01:02 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
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Trailing arm bushing replacement 1982 300TD 460,000 miles

I helped a friend replace the trailing arm bushings in his '82 300TD the other day. The car has 460,000 miles on it, and sounds like the rear end is going to fall off at every bump. A couple weeks ago he came and got a set of trailing arms from one of my parts cars, and cleaned and painted them. He brought them back a few days later, and made an appointment to come back so I could help him. On his way here, I thought that somehow the arms might be different and called him. Neither him or I thought about the fact that they might be different on a TD until he was half way here on the 100 mile trip. I made a query here on DD that morning: Quick wagon (TD) question for you early birds (Thursday morning) and found out they are the same (my parts car was a sedan). Thankfully they are the same, so we were able to use the arms that were rebuilt (new bushings and painted). Since the arms came from a car with less than 200,000 miles on them, he decided not to change the bearings. We got the old arms off:

The old and new arms (one side at least):

The bushing was rattling around the sleeve it was so worn out:

The arm ready to go in with all new parking brake shoes and hardware:

Both arms installed ready to lift up and install the sub-frame:

The finished product:

It drives very smooth and quiet (suspension wise) now!

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  #2  
Old 06-27-2015, 07:45 AM
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How difficult would it be for 1 person to do that job? Did you use any lifting devices except for the jack and stands?
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. Probably up for sale in the fall 2020 still have it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Waiting on shop to do minor but more than I can do rust.
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2015, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
How difficult would it be for 1 person to do that job? Did you use any lifting devices except for the jack and stands?
It could be done by one person, but obviously would take longer. Yes just jack and stands are all that is needed. We did not take the sub frame totally out from under the car, but looking back at the job, it would have been easier to do so.
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2015, 11:32 AM
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Nice work - it is a fun job.

I assume because of the lack of a spring compressor (either mentioned or in the pictures) you didn't use one? If I remember correctly the T springs are shorter and perhaps are a little bit more manageable?

I've done job a few times now and each time by myself. I do think a spring compressor helps for putting the springs back in but I've had a relatively easy time removing the springs by just lifting the back end of the car - you have to go slow and be sensible - step back from the car and look at the big picture once in a while!

(Please note the comments about "sans spring compressor" are only appropriate for REAR W123 springs - not the fronts!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 06-27-2015, 04:29 PM
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The rear springs on a W123, you don`t need a Spring compressor.

When the Shocks are removed, and a Floor jack placed under the differential, then remove the 4 13mm bolts that bolt the diff mount to the body. Lowering down the Differential, the Springs will just fall out.

There are a few other items that need to be removed. like hang the calipers by a wire so when the Sub frame is lowered it does not stretch the Brake hoses. Remove the sway Bar at the links. and.....?

Replacing the Springs, place the top with the rubber pad into the body, slowly raise the jack and make sure the lower end of the Spring fits into the notch in the trailing Arm. Then raise the Jack slowly to make sure both Springs are lined up and raise all the way up and replace the four 13mm bolts for the diff mount.

if it sounds complicated, it really isn`t.


Now the W123 front springs, you better use the MB Spring Compressor. They can hurt you.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #6  
Old 06-27-2015, 07:34 PM
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Charlie is exactly correct, except this wagon had a coil cut off the springs for a lower ride. The springs fell out sooner than they normally would have.
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  #7  
Old 07-05-2015, 06:12 PM
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Why replace those springs? If the sls is working they will never sag.

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  #8  
Old 07-05-2015, 11:16 PM
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This wasn`t about replacing the Springs. But when the Sub Frame is dropped
and the Trailing Arms are being removed, then the Springs have to come out.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2015, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
How difficult would it be for 1 person to do that job? Did you use any lifting devices except for the jack and stands?
I've done it solo. Not too bad of a job if you think it through. Search my thread I posted a few years ago.

One thing to keep in mind is make sure the trailing arms are at ride height when you tighten the trailing arm bushing bolts. Otherwise, the new bushings will twist and fail.
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2015, 11:18 AM
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Not to be a stickler, but where is the bushing replacement?

Nice pictorial on the arm replacement though!
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  #11  
Old 07-07-2015, 12:04 PM
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^^^ classic!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 07-08-2015, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Not to be a stickler, but where is the bushing replacement?

Nice pictorial on the arm replacement though!
You do have a point there, the arms were brought to me rebuilt. I should have titled the thread "Rebuilt trailing arm replacement".....Rich
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2015, 09:32 PM
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I used the HF spring compressor for the job
MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set
LOL, not to compress the rear springs, but for pressing in the bushings!

The threaded rod in the spring compressor is the right diameter and length to make a handy press. The nuts are also 24mm, same as the bushing nuts. I cut and used a short piece of 2" exhaust pipe (and some big washers) to do the trailing arm bushings. Then, for the subframe bushings in the front I used a 2x4 piece w/ a hole drilled in it and some bits of plywood for extra support.

I cranked so hard on the wood (using a cheater wrench) to make sure the subframe bushings were in all the way that I actually damaged the nut threads a little. So I messed up 1 nut doing each side, maybe unnecessarily. Fortunately home depot has some.
Crown Bolt 16 mm-2.0 Zinc-Plated Metric Hex Nut-81988 - The Home Depot

The spring compressor I'd bought for doing VW springs. Even cheaper with a coupon!
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2015, 03:07 PM
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On my W126, I used a homemade bushing press consisting of some all-thread, nuts, washers and a cheap HF 3/4" dr. socket set.

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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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