My drive line has a bad U-joint.
The shop I called wants 400-500 to put a new one in!
I'll call around some more tomorrow, but
I was also thinking of looking in the JY for a low mile DL.
Any chance the gassers and diesels are the same?
Gen I & Gen II the same?

Thanks,
Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

They are interchangeable if the same length I believe.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The rear portion of the driveline (which contains the u-joint) is the same if: 1) the wheelbase is the same, i.e., short wheelbase in your case, and 2) the engine is an inline (5 or 6 cylinder; the V8s have larger flex joints).

If you were to find a suitable rear portion it would have to be balanced as a unit with your existing front drive line.

If you find a short wheelbase Gen II, it will be a grey market car.

If the length is the same, IE SE/SD same chassis, the Flex Disk and Tri Flange will be larger on the Gasser.

You may be able to swap the Flanges to the larger one`s. On the Differential, you will have to work out the friction preload before removing the Flange.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Yea, I checked the part #s for the flex discs and the
SE and SD have different #s. Sounds like I should stick
to SDs only on this. Too bad. There's a 90 300SE near me.
Chances of finding a low mileage SD are getting slim.
I'll be pricing other DL shops today, too.

Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

That U-joint shouldn't be anywhere NEAR that much. They ought to take you out for dinner and kiss you first. If you carry the drive shaft in I think our local shop would be about $100. IIRC, you have to melt the retainer plastic out of the caps first but that's not a huge deal. The replacement joints that I've seen have clips in place of the plastic and they work fine.

Dan

Actually, $400 is not a bad price for a rebuilt drive-shaft (~$300+) and the labor to install. Most local shops won't touch them because they don't have a suitable flange to mount the shaft and check the balancing. There are a few places that will rebuild that provide shipping containers. (cost ~$350)

The "problem" you face with the driveshaft is it has staked u-joints. There are no plastic retainers or clips. A "less-used" version from the local salvage yard would be the easiest repair. However, it is possible to repair your driveshaft with a new u-joint. Here is a thread that describes this:Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do?

The only thing I did different on mine was to drive the u-joint out, using a small 4# sledge and a large punch (clevis pin for farm implements @ Tractor Supply Co.) then I used a dremel to smooth the remains of the staking. It is fairly easy to repair but the delicate part is keeping the newly installed u-joint centered and finding a good prick punch to re-stake the ends.

One of the most critical tasks is to mark everything beforehand to hopefully retain the balance.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Rooster:

If the cited car is indeed a short wheelbase (an SE, NOT an SEL) then the length will be correct for yours, and the flex disc also should match. Six cylinder SE/SEL cars used the same smaller flex disc as the SDs. Only the V8 cars had the large flex disc.
Measure the OD of your disc, and go check it against the one you mention above.

The last staked one I did (it was a LONG time ago - maybe a Jag?) I cut the cross out with the torch and drove the caps inward. As noted, I then cleaned the bores with a die grinder but I think the replacement had spring clips to hold the caps in place. Anyhow, it wasn't a big deal. Seems like it would be easy to put spots with the welder if they had to be retained w/o clips though I haven't tried that.

I ABSOLUTELY agree with marking everything!

Dan

I ground the stakes with small die grinder ordered part# 900 410 00 31 GMB joint from ******** for $14 and tack welded back in on my 300SD runs perfect no vibration. Check all other wear areas also front and rear centering bushings,center bearing + holder, flex discs. Mark everything.

Went to PNP and pulled the '90 gasser rear shaft today.
The length and the triflange are the same, but the output
shaft on the tailpiece is a different length. The Ujoint was
much better than mine. I bought it as it was only $30.
What's my best option here, guys?

Thanks,
Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Rooster:

Can you put up some side by side pics? I do not understand the reference. What is a "tailpiece" in this context?

Here's some pix.
The gasser tailpiece, on the left, is shorter and the inside is different than the SD

Jeff

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

In MB-speak, the "tailpiece" is called a centering bushing.
If you were to face the two shafts back end-to-back end, with the centering bushing of each against the tri-flange of the other, I think that you will see that the two are almost the same length. There are machining differences, and coloration, that tend to create the appearance of different lengths. The inside of your recent purchase is as it should appear; the old one is all beat up and missing its seal.

That would be great if they are a match!
Then I will just have it balanced with the original front half.

I will measure it carefully tomorrow as we are heading
over to the neighbor's for a 4th get together.

Thanks,
Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end