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#1
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Priority Repair List
I'm looking at a 83 240d. It runs well but needs lots of typical repairs for this car.
What are the ones I should do first that if left unchecked can cause trouble or be unsafe? |
#2
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Brakes...
Tires... Steering components...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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You need to be more specific as to what your car apparently needs and what further investigation reveals.
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Suspension bushings are all suspect. Steering isn't tight. One of the boots on the axle is cracked. Brakes look and feel OK but I've read about replacing lines with stainless steel braided lines. I'm sure there are others but what I'm looking for are the things that would be good to fix now to prevent disaster down the road. |
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Replacing brake lines is a good idea, stainless steel, overkill.
Shifter bushing should be addressed, you don't want to be stranded somewhere. The steering unit is a recirculating type, not as tight as you may imagine. Replace all worn rubber components. Rear CV boots are a non essential NOW fix, but will need addressing.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#6
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Check your flex discs and the driveshaft center bearing support.
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1981 300TD 310k miles 1970 280sel 172k miles 1966 230 Fintail 162k miles "Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?" |
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Quote:
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#8
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The attachment may help.
I have changed only item #101. Item #'s 11 & 101 have the same part #, yet the illustration is different, unknown as to why. I order from MB supply houses and have not had an issue.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#9
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You've gotta give more details....shifter bushings...well there is an auto shifter and a manual shifter...the manual shifter also changed from first gen to second gen...
Got a link for this car photos? What are you paying? That stuff may not cost much but the parts are very time consuming to replace.... Why do we suspect the shifter bushings? Have you crawled under the car to inspect? What is your idea of run?? There are many many many many....lets say that again....many....small parts that have or shortly will go bye bye from age that left un fixed can cause serious issues....even not doing a valve adjustment every 5k can cause trouble....using the car as a grocery getter can cause trouble....a bad spraying injector can melt a hole in a piston.... Pick your poison and go from there....best system to go over first is the fuel....alot of the items in my revive thread below is shared with the 240D....just did shifter bushings too....which showed me the carrier support/bearing is also toast...
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Thanks for the reply and link to the great thread. The whole purpose of buying this car is to learn about old diesels. My plan is to use it as a daily driver but I have another reliable car that I can use when I need to take longer to fix something. This will help keep the miles down on the other one. It's an automatic. I'm thinking of paying $2k. I am planning on spending $100-$200 per month on parts and maintenance and do everything myself as I learn. I thought it was the bushing because it wouldn't go into park. The owner put it on jacks and we went under and both visible bushings were gone. It "runs" as in it starts from a cold engine on the first try. It drives around and shifts fine. (I don't have experience with these cars but the shifts seem to be a bit hard, not uncomfortable just noticeable). It shuts off right away when turned off. |
#11
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when I bought my 83,I spent $500. in parts right away,to make it safe.There are alot of wear items,and parts that dry out.Then I drove round trip to texas.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#12
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Cunifer tubing(copper&nickle blend) for brakes lines is around $1-$1.25/foot. It's the only brake tubing I'll ever use again. Any real parts store (NAPA, federal, mom&pop, etc. will carry it).
Change the oil Brakes with fresh DOT4 Replace worn steering parts Rear axles. Once the boot is split you need to replace the whole shaft. I've driven a clicking open boot axle for ~5k miles before. Not recommended but it works.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
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That is way to much for that car...... One good selling point that would make me want the car is "if" that is the original color...black w123's aren't easy to find....but this paint is in horrible shape with clear coat flaking off also I don't believe that the oem paint had a clear coat for black... Automatic 240d's are at the bottom....mean wayyyy bottom of the w123 list....that price is right on the money for the stick 240D...only way to live with a 240D....65hp isn't great in a car that is 2 tons....its also known the engine in the 240D won't last as long as the 5cyl non turbo 300... With the car running remove the oil cap and watch for the cloud of smoke....run away....if there is.... A shifter rebuild in an auto is a lot simpler then a stick but like I said....you don't want a 240D auto.... Both my cars didn't cost me more the 400$ each...the euro(pre smashed in thread look) was only 300$....and I didn't even have to pay the owner...she said just take it....I wish benzworld didn't crash and lose that thread I paid 375$ for the 78.....the only reason I did that was because of the 2500$ receipt for the transmission rebuild but I still had issues with the auto after that.....I was living in cali 30min from frisco and bought both of them local... If you want to learn on one of these...think it through....these are hobby cars....love mine to death and have no issues driving either across country... My partner uses the 78 to go to work which is maybe 3 miles round trip...the car hates it! I am going to take her for a 300 mile trip tomorrow to blow all the carp out of the engine.... These cars LOVE to be driven hard....very hard....but like women they need alot of attention and gifts....they are not happy staying on 35mph roads....they need to be floored on the freeway, regular oil changed at 3k miles is best for unknown cars... You see the oil also acts as a cleaner/detergent on diesels....the oil is designed to suspend the molecules from the combustion in the oil...hints to why its always black....its carbon...meaning that you cannot keep the oil in these cars and expect to just keep driving....as it kills the engine... Valve adjustments are also VERY important...if there car hasn't seen one in many many moons....you will be under there every 500 miles adjusting valves...ask how I know... Why don't you tell us where you are, and help you look for a car? knock this one off the list....not only will it be dead slow, no matter how much you put into it....no one else will ever buy it off you... Are you dead set on a 240? Also I suppose you don't know that these cars(autos) do not start off in first gear...so take off is slow....the only way to get into first is to select it manually or smash the peddle to the floor and activate the kick down switch for the transmission which drops the gear...
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Last edited by cooljjay; 07-06-2015 at 02:04 PM. |
#14
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Cooljay why should I drive the car hard? What is considered hard for a 240D auto? Also I read it will start in 2nd gear if the vacuum lines are removed. Is that the case?
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#15
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Why do you want a 240D auto??? I am having this exact conversation with another person....they are dead slow! I have a 300D na auto...just yesterday climbing hills n altitude I was down to 45mph on a highway that has a 65mph speed limit...that is with a 77hp car...this one is 65hp..
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