Save or Scrap this 1983 300D? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #16 07-08-2015, 12:42 PM

keep in mind this car is unibody... meaning serious underbody rust, and the car can split in half... I've seen it.

NY is a really really bad place to drive a "free car" and expect longevity.

so... rust may not bother you, but have it SERIOUSLY inspected... the trailing arms are unobtanium new... so you need to find some from southern states, as I can bet any dollar figure you care to name, yours are ready to dump your back wheels on the ground. look over ALL the suspension. and be thorough!

it would be lovely to keep the car, and I'll root for it, but keep an open mind... salt is DEATH to these cars.

barry12345 · #17 07-09-2015, 12:29 PM

I might expect some frozen calipers if it has been sitting in that climate for a couple of years. My climate in eastern Canada is somewhat similar and I almost always count on it. At least it missed the winter salt for the time it has sat.

DieselHead · #18 12-10-2015, 05:53 PM

Wanted to provide an update to this pretty inconsequential thread. Long story short, I kept putting off dealing with this car until I finally needed to shift it out of the way for a few minutes to provide access to the driveway for someone else. Anyway, the battery had no life left in it, and the temp battery I brought from my sailboat just to start it didn't fit (cables couldn't reach the terminals). So, I connected the cables directly to a jump pack and gave it a crank after doing nothing other than pouring a half quart of oil in the valve cover.

Keep in mind that the car has sat since 2010 (date of last inspection sticker). It started up immediately. Then died. I was bummed, until I realized it was because I didn't hit the under-dash security fuel cut off switch. Once I did that and started it up again, the motor idled and revved just fine. In fact, it didn't sound any different than when it was in service.

If I can get classic insurance I'll keep it going as it only has 189k miles. There's a bit of dry rot on the tires but they were still half inflated despite all of the elapsed time.

Can't believe it started up with no drama, extra effort or funny noises.

dude99 · #19 12-10-2015, 06:05 PM

The 617 is a tough beast to kill....

vstech · #20 12-10-2015, 06:16 PM

Yup, good glow plugs and a tight fuel system, and these cars will start up after 10 years of sitting. Ive seen it.

Don't try to drive on the old tires though. You'll be stranded for sure.

DieselHead · #21 01-07-2016, 04:55 PM

Couple of follow up questions. I'm finally ready to register and roll this car out to a new home. Unfortunately I can't do any real work on it where it is now so my question is around what the minimal I need to do is, to get it moved about 150 miles (across the LIE in NY out to the end of Long Island).

As a reminder, it sat for 5 years but seemed to start up fine and moved forward and back about 30 feet just fine. The fluids and half tank of diesel are all original to when it was parked in 2010.

The read exhaust hangers cracked and fell off so I'll replace those, I'll also make sure the tires hold air and are safe, and I may even change the hood star.

Besides the above, can I drive it as is with the existing fluids (at the right levels) and a top off of diesel? Should I dump some seafom in the tank? Anything else that might leave me stranded on the side of the road? That's the only thing I want to avoid. Once I get it into my garage I can do all the work I need, I just need to get it there.

Thanks!!

Alex

mbolton1990 · #22 01-07-2016, 05:18 PM

You SHOULD be alright with those fluids but give them a once over before you head out and take it up and down the street a few times to make sure all is running properly and well.I'd be more worried about the tires than I would the fluids,given the fluids were changed at proper intervals. Check the coolant and make sure it's not really nasty.. Get some before and after pics

Junkman · #23 01-07-2016, 06:58 PM

Dry rotted tires can easily leave you stranded. My 1st SD was given to me by my father-in-law who used the car in FL. Two tires that looked fine had the belts come apart at different times while driving back to TN. This car was well maintained except for unknown to me old tires.

You also want to stop along the route and check fluid levels. It would be unfortunate to have a severe leak that does damage. The car really needs to be inside. I've had a couple turn into parts cars because of rust and sitting much longer than I ever intended. Selling would have been a better option.

Does anyone want a 78 Datsun Z that has the top cut off to make a convertible? The back end sheet metal from the b-pillar has been replaced with fiberglass. The fiberglass part used for the mod in NLA as a company in CA was making it for the conversion and selling for ~$3,000.