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  #1  
Old 07-14-2015, 11:16 AM
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my 1987 190d 2.5 turbodiesel might be for sale

i have one of the rare w201 2.5td sold in 1987 (1 of 1200 I believe).

I has been in parked in the garage for the past year and I brought it out this past weekend. I think the new diesel fuel has done a number on the fuel system. The injector pump seals started to leak last year so I replaced the o rings and they no longer leak. I think the injectors are clogged. I ran 3 cans of diesel purge this weekend and it has made an improvement but it isn't perfect. It might be running on 4 cylinders not 5. when the car is running and I feel each injector firing, the #4 injector's 'ping' is much more pronounced that the other 4. It might need new injectors.
the tranny was professionally rebuilt a couple of years ago.

the car has no a/c and it is pretty uncomfortable in the summertime.

what do you guys think the car is worth? it runs fine but is pretty slow going up hills probably due the injectors.

i might just keep it for it's collector's value but I might be too practical for that!

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  #2  
Old 07-14-2015, 08:52 PM
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Are you looking for a new car? Probably worth a down payment and then some. Better if you sell instead of trade in. A Hyundai accent was surprising nice last I rented one. It has better power, interior, space, emissions and fuel economy, all better except the look out the back window, but 3 box cars are long gone. IDK on the crash safety. ***** in the snow though.

It doesn't sound like much to fix- get you injectors rebuilt ($200, member greazzer) and up to a grand or so the AC, just guessing from #'s people throw around on this board.

Depends on what you want.
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2015, 09:19 PM
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What is the consensus in the "tink" noise of the injector line?
Not to thread jack, but my 190D 2.5turbo also does that.
My plastic clips were all broken and I weaved them all together with zip ties and it got better but still I can feel the tink in cyl 4&5
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  #4  
Old 07-15-2015, 08:14 AM
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... my TWO 190D2.5T cars are great... another wouldn't hurt...
Gimme a call ben
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2015, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpanda16 View Post
What is the consensus in the "tink" noise of the injector line?
Not to thread jack, but my 190D 2.5turbo also does that.
My plastic clips were all broken and I weaved them all together with zip ties and it got better but still I can feel the tink in cyl 4&5
Zip ties are not proper support for the injector lines.

Please note, there is 2 to 3 thousand psi in the lines.

The lines vibrate and also they elongate with every injection pulse.

The clips and rubber pads are vital to keep the lines from not only rubbing against something (or each other) but also to keep the stress off the fittings at the ends.

If the line is improperly supported, the micro elongations that occur at every injection cause the line to fatigue at the fitting. This is where the stress is greatest, at a discontinuity.

This happened to my E300, the car was down 3 weeks waiting for a new line from Germany. PO zip tied the lines, and it's an OM606 so it was hidden under the cover.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2015, 10:24 AM
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If you are asking what is the value of your 2.5DT, then more info is needed.

- Location
- Rust
- Body/paint condition
- Interior condition
- Mileage
- Tire condition
- Maintenance history

You've disclosed it to be running poorly without functioning a/c. Answer the above and you'll get some good extimates of its current market value. Pictures always help.
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2015, 11:17 AM
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The 190d is basically not safe to drive because it is way too slow. My guess is one or more injectors is totally clogged because i let it sit in the garage for so long.

so................in the meantime............I bought a 97 Buick Lesabre to tie me over until things get back to normal (whatever that is).

I paid 900 for the Buick and all it needs are new headlight lenses (old ones are fogged up). And it has a/c which is a blessing.

I sent an email to greazzer asking him if he can help with the injector rebuild.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2015, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
The 190d is basically not safe to drive because it is way too slow.
Could also be the vacuum waste gate not working correctly
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2015, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
Could also be the vacuum waste gate not working correctly
what part is that exactly? can i remove and check/replace it easily?
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  #10  
Old 07-15-2015, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benhogan View Post
what part is that exactly? can i remove and check/replace it easily?
Ehh. I've driven a 2.5 turbo with a completely failed wastegate. it was definitely slow but not slow like whoa.. more like it just took a little longer to rev up than dangerously slow.

For test purposes you can temporarily re route constant vacuum to the waste gate and go for a SHORT drive. if you feel like it might could tear the seat out of your pants then there's your problem. Don't drive too much like that as it will be over boosting.

The pressure controlled wastegate swap is fairly easy and cost about $100 in parts.
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2015, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Ehh. I've driven a 2.5 turbo with a completely failed wastegate. it was definitely slow but not slow like whoa.. more like it just took a little longer to rev up than dangerously slow.

For test purposes you can temporarily re route constant vacuum to the waste gate and go for a SHORT drive. if you feel like it might could tear the seat out of your pants then there's your problem. Don't drive too much like that as it will be over boosting.

The pressure controlled wastegate swap is fairly easy and cost about $100 in parts.
that's what it is, it takes a while to rev up from a standstill...say from zero to 15 mph takes about 20 seconds....after that, it revs fine.
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2015, 02:20 PM
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The 87 190d's have pressure actuated waste gates as opposed to the om602's in the early 90's w124
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2015, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpanda16 View Post
The 87 190d's have pressure actuated waste gates as opposed to the om602's in the early 90's w124
Ahh. Yep. You're exactly right. So... Nix that then.

Doesn't mean that there's nothing wrong with the waste gate but that method for testing does not apply here.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2015, 04:13 PM
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Could be a boost sense line... Simple hose repair.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2015, 09:46 PM
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John - Is the system in the 87 201s similar to the 603 in the 87 124/126s? They use an OM602 5 cylinder, correct?

The 603 boost system is very simple, it is boost port -> over boost switchover valve -> ALDA, and a tap to the BFS, via another thermally actuated switchover valve, to help modulate the transmission vacuum under load.

Any of those 3 (port, valve, ALDA, or the hoses between) can get plugged with EGR induced intake goo. Or one of the hoses can simply fall off the port, more common than you think because they are under boost pressure.

Or the electrical pressure switch next to the boost port can get stuffed full of goo, actuate, and turn on the switchover valve, dumping your boost away from the ALDA to atmosphere.

And if they kept the same theme between the 602 and 603, it is a pressure waste gate on the turbo.

The 603s have an actuator called an ARF valve on the turbo that was meant for the evil trap oxidizer to operate properly. Some people mistake this device for the waste gate actuator. The ARF is visible from the top front of the turbo, the waste gate device is down below.

For *testing purposes only* the ARF and EGR vacuum lines can be removed and plugged. I would also recommend disinfecting the intake manifold of EGR goo. B100 works wonders but wear clothing you never want to be seen in again...and do it in an area where the spatter won't matter.

Good luck Ben hopefully you can get it running right, so you can start driving a real car and not that dinosaur from Detroit.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)
2008 ML320 CDI (Older sonís DD)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
----------
gone but living on
1983 240D (body to greazzer, engine to t walgamuth)
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