Motivation - I had the valve cover off in looking for the source of parts found in the oil pan (separate post), so decided to replace the tension rail and check valve timing. My rail was cocked so only ~1/2 circle contacted the tensioner (photo). A common issue and benign, but looked like the chain had cut into the rubber liner also. It was probably the original rail. It has M-B star, PN "615 050 10 16", and "1034/4". The rubber was hard and cracked, so soon to start shedding chunks. The new rail is SWAG PN "2.09.1050, "Made in Germany", triangle 880 III/3, and "C6150" written by Sharpie, and appears to be a rubber liner. I found on rock , listed as Cloyes "upper damper" (gone now). P-P lists similar for slightly more.

The photos are similar to earlier posts, so I'll just add a few points:

1. The new rail also wanted to cock, so I slid a 5/8" copper tube between tensioner and rail nub to align the cylinders until the chain wears grooves. I had to beat the tube down to fit tight. 0.5" ID tube would fit better. Copper is best in case it somehow gets into the timing chain.

2. My 1" dial indicator wouldn't easily reach the valve top, so I bought a long screw at Ace to extend it. Not exactly the correct thread (U.S. fit best), but got it started enough to be tight.

3. You can't pull out the tension rail until you pull the cam gear off and slide it over. Tie the chain tight so it can't shift a tooth.

4. The tensioner spring was worn flat on the side in 2 places, as others have seen, so I bought 2 (~$6 ea) from P-P (one for my 1985 later).

5. Valve timing read 3 deg late by the "cam mark" method and 5.5 deg late by the "2 mm intake valve drop" method (79 mil on dial) = 14.5 deg ATDC on crank (should be 9 deg new, 11 deg after 10K miles). I installed a 2 deg advance Woodruff key (from P-P) = 4 deg advance on crank. I then read 1 deg late by cam mark and 0 deg late by valve drop (9 deg ATDC crank). I wasn't worried about over-correcting since the chain will wear more, plus advanced valve timing gives better low-end torque and mileage, at least in gas engines.

6. More instructive are screw-ups. Most are benign if you catch them. Best to work slow and not get jiggy, but it was hot here. A few of my screw-ups:

a) I initially re-installed the damper 180 deg off. I had punch marked it, but there were existing punches and I couldn't make out the new ones, whine ... . Anyway, easy to tell because at the TDC mark, the #1 valves should be a certain place. I hadn't pulled the damper in all the way, though it did start shearing the sides of the alignment pins. Apparently the holes aren't exactly opposite so if off 180 deg the holes don't exactly align. No problem since I found you should always get new pins. People have buggered up their crank by not having the pins tight. I also forgot that the damper part (alum w/ rubber ring) pulls off the steel "hub". Mark that alignment first, in case it matters (anyone know?) and ditto for the crank pulley.

b) I re-installed the cam washer w/ timing mark 180 deg off. I hadn't noticed the 2 slots which makes this possible. Anyway, easy to verify because the mark should align w/ the keyway and also with the direction the #1 exhaust lobe points. I found both errors above when after installing the 4 deg key, I read 0 deg by the mark method (perfect) and 19 deg crank (10 deg lag) by valve drop. Impossible the methods could differ that much and I knew I oriented the key to advance the cam. Note that the mark method wasn't affected by the washer being 180 deg off, but the drop method is by the damper being 180 off (pin holes not symmetric).

c) I installed a new front crank seal but tore the lip by pinching it between inner "seal ring" and damper hub. I noticed it cocked after rotating the crank, so investigated. Insure you get the lip over the seal ring by using a plastic liner (wiki here - cut yogurt cup), working the lip over w/ a blunt screwdriver, or pull the seal ring out and slide it thru the installed seal. Perhaps fortunate since it made me consider oil leaking past the ID of the seal ring so I coated that w/ gasket sealant.

Good luck on your job, and hope you avoid my mistakes.

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__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Photos for crank marks after 2 deg cam advance key installed - cam mark method and 2 mm valve drop method. Also, torn crank seal. Notice the cocked seal in the photos which made me investigate and replace seal.

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__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

Bill -

THANKS for this post. I've been looking for a post online to confirm which direction to move the cam for a performance enhancement and here you did the post and included the pics. It turns out that my logic was right but it's great to have that confirmed before I tow 1/4 of the way across the continent to test it out.

Now to do mine. I think I'll go for 2* BTDC or so, so not too crazy.

Dan

Nice work Bill.

You seem to be missing a few pieces that would have gotten in the way.

Yes, I removed the radiator and all pulleys. You must to get at the rail retainer pins. I also removed the AC hoses since I decided to rebuild w/ new rubber hose, as I did recently in my 1985 300D (another post).

Several ways to pull out the rail pins. If a slide hammer, as in manuals, you might need to also remove the AC condenser. The bolt-nut-washer puller method is more controlled, requires less room, and probably gives more force anyway. I used a generic "triangle" steering-wheel puller, with a metric bolt into the pin as one "bolt" and the center loading bolt acting against the block. That let me get the "feet" staggered over the aluminum "seal block" on the engine (for tension rail pin down low). I also replaced the upper guide rail (1 pin) "just because", even though the old one looked fine. That one can be done easily w/ the "bolt thru socket spacer" method. I didn't touch the short lower guide rails since they rarely wear and it appears you must remove the vacuum pump and IP drive to fish them out. I coated the retainer pin ends w/ gasket sealant (purple sticky liquid), since it has worked well for me to seal bolt threads. Many here use RTV, but I don't think it sticks as well and sometimes falls off.

I am contemplating removing that crank pickup sensor since in my 1984 the cable just runs to an open connector on the driver's inner fender, where earlier cars had a "tach amp". My car gets rpm via a sensor on the tranny bell-housing. Perhaps they put the front sensor on 1984's for a dealer tool to read rpm, or such. Anyway, I don't need it and it just collects gunk. On my 1985 300D, that damper pin got knocked off after I installed RollGuy's improved anti-vibration bracket on the upper oil pan for his Sanden bracket kit, then found the bolt he supplied was too long and struck the pin (oops). But, doesn't affect the car in any way.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I've always used the 'bolt and stacked nut' method for removing the pins.

Also, every tensioner spring I've pulled has wear spots on the sides. That should be replaced always if removed.