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  #16  
Old 07-24-2015, 12:44 AM
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Ok more progress made. I assume that we will disconect the drive shaft at the tranny end, is this ok? Do we just unbolt the thing ?
Are the motor mounts unbolted from the bottom?

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  #17  
Old 07-24-2015, 09:18 AM
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I've never done it before, but sounds like the right way to me, for both drive shaft and mounts. If you run into a clearance issue, easy enough to remove the motor mount arms from the engine(s).
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2015, 01:04 PM
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Make sure you mark the position of the centre bearing and also mark the flex disks where they are oriented before removing them so you can mount in exactly the same way.
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2015, 10:09 AM
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I matchmarked the ones coming off, so what about if you are putting on new flex disks?
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  #20  
Old 07-29-2015, 12:24 PM
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That's fine just keep the shaft marks lined up.
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  #21  
Old 07-29-2015, 12:39 PM
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ya got pics of the electric fan setup that is on it?
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  #22  
Old 07-29-2015, 03:04 PM
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Vstech
No pics of the electric fan set up, the previous owner had it wired in to were it looks like the fan would run when ever the car was on, i have a new radiator and fan/fan clutch that was going to put on the water pump pully and use instead of the electric fan that was conneted right on the radiator. I did notice that the strip fuse on the fender that the wire to the fan went thru had melted,so thats probably why he had it rigged.
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  #23  
Old 07-29-2015, 03:07 PM
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Dieselbenz1
I guess you mean matchmark the two halfs of the driveshaft which i did so thats cool right?
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  #24  
Old 07-29-2015, 05:20 PM
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Correct
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  #25  
Old 07-30-2015, 11:10 PM
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Got the engine out whats some good stuff to replace now that its out? I ordered glow plugs and reamer, water pump, valve cover gasket injector o rings, oil, power streeing filter, tranny filter,oil filter gasket, new flex disks front and rear i have super new injectors but cant find anyone to pop test them. Any other ideas


Thanks

Kenny
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  #26  
Old 07-30-2015, 11:37 PM
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Tensioner, belt, consider putting in new exhaust studs and crank oil seal.
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  #27  
Old 07-31-2015, 12:04 AM
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Yes i have a new belt and seal and a new driveshaft bearing but no tensioner
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  #28  
Old 07-31-2015, 07:02 AM
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Also change the alternator voltage regulator they are a pain to change on the car. Double check all hoses. You are doing a very comprehensive job by the way. Did you check the condition of your motor mounts they should be 5 inches from both mounting plates if less than 4 inches then the mount has collapsed.

I wouldn't be doing the delivery valve o rings at this time but would much rather do the waste gate pressure controller swap and egr delete.
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Last edited by dieselbenz1; 07-31-2015 at 09:22 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-31-2015, 12:04 PM
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My motor mounts are maybe new, the car fax says the dealer did them just a few thousand miles ago , a motor mount on the donor car was all collapsed ,so i guess thats an example of what a bad one would look like.
Why would you not do the injector o rings at this time ?
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  #30  
Old 07-31-2015, 10:00 PM
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Some people experience poor running conditions if they don't do everything perfect. A larger number of people experience nailing. It's just a job I'd rather do all by itself you have way to much other things to worry about now why add another complication to this project. Do that job by itself otherwise if something goes sideways with the delivery valves you'll be chasiging too many other things. Just my thoughts and experience.

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