I'm removing my 617 engine and I couldn't get the pressure gauge line at the filter housing off without cutting the line as near as I could get it at the fitting. No matter how I tried I couldn't keep the line from twisting with the fitting. I thought there would be a ferrule of some sort on that end just like at the gauge and I could refit it later.

After removing the fitting and then searching around I see that the connection is different, although I'm not clear as to what it is or whether I can reconnect the cut line. Is it possible to do this?

If I have to I can use the line from my parts car, but I've got enough to do without pulling clusters.

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

Anybody have a clue?

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

I had the same problem and ended up pulling the engine with the line still connected (removed it at the cluster and pulled it through the firewall). I guess it's a little late for this suggestion, but maybe it will help someone else down the road.

I wonder what the trick could be, to getting that fitting loose.

(Beware I did not spell check.)
You have not shown any pics what is left of the Oil Pressure line meaing where you cut it. So it is hard to come up with a repair.

What happens is rust builds up between the Oil Pressure Gauge Line and the Hex headed Fittig and bonds them together.

Another way to have done it would have been to remove the Plate that the Oil Filter Line screws into as seen in the Pic. but before I realized I should have done that I also cut the Line.

I cut the line as close a possible to the Fitting. Thinking that that after I got the fitting cleared and out I would simply shover the end back into the Plastic Tubing.
Unfortunatly the old Plastic is inelastic and I only got it part way back on and then stuck and would go no further. I think I got it on like 1/4 of an inch.

I am not recommending this but in my case I filled the area between the ID of the fitting with the Nut hex on it and the partially installed Plasitc Tube with JB Weld. So when I screwed it back in the JB Weld hardened around the Plastic Tube and the inside of the Hex Nut Fitting.

After that I orderd a new Oil Pressure Gauge Line which I have yet to install and that was a lot of years ago now.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If this simple part fails, you engine will bleed out all the oil and seize. I'll bet that would happen within a minute or two if at highway speed, and then...

My car? I would pull the cluster, get a new line from MB (not ebay or some other re-seller whose quality is unknowable), and install that. This is not a place to try to be penny-wise, but pound-foolish. Use the remains of the old line to pull the new line through the firewall and dash.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Thanks for your input, guys. Rather than try and save the fitting, I'll just use the entire line from my parts car.

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

^^^This. In process of swapping engines now. Seized on the dead engine and seized on the good engine.

I started rounding the nuts and quit.

IIRC it is a 14mm fitting, difficult location for a normal length box end wrench. Stubby would fit, but I doubt you would have enough torque to break it free.

Anyone have luck with PB Blaster/ Kroil and/or heat?

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'82 300TD
'84 300D OM617
Auto to 4spd Manual Swap 716.210
'85 300SD 2.88 Diff (Direct Swap)
W140 HD Rear Springs w/ bilstein shocks (SLS Delete)
'83 300SD Big Brake Booster Swap
Late model 240D Manual HVAC Swap
W124 Outside Temp Gauge
Aftermarket Keyless Entry

'84 300D RIP

Mine (83 300D) broke due to dryness/heat. Bought a new line.

Difficult location to r&r.

I r&r-ed by crawling under the car and angled 14mm wrench to loosen the nut. Then pulled out cluster to unscrew the other end (10mm).

Taped the cluster end of the new line to the broken end of the old line and pulled out through the dash. This help worm the new line from the engine bay into the dash.

Crawled under the car and connect the new line the fitting on the oil filter assy, then finally connect same on the dash.

No issues so far...

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1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head
1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles
1997 E320 180K mi (Son's)
2002 ML320 (Son's)
1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold
1985 300SD 311K mi
1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd)
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