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  #1  
Old 07-20-2015, 06:44 AM
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Correct Brake Booster?

I have an 83 300D and the brake booster went. I ordered a remanufactured one (none available here) and it needed 5/16 nuts. And, the vacuum hose does not screw on without cross threading. The box is marked with the right number and "import brake booster" but I'm pretty sure they sent the wrong part.

Agree, or am I missing something here?

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  #2  
Old 07-20-2015, 08:06 AM
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All fittings should be metric!

Post up the part number of the bit you have bought
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #3  
Old 07-20-2015, 09:38 AM
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I believe you have the wrong part.
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84 CD
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2015, 03:48 PM
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The box says 53-2650 which should be correct. I'll have to uninstall it to see if there are any marks on the booster itself
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2015, 06:59 PM
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I assume you first tried the factory nuts. There are some U.S. and metric nuts that are close enough to interchange, or at lease some box wrenches interchange (ex. 14 mm & 9/16"). I doubt a Girling booster would have been used on a U.S. car and anything U.S. from the 1980's should have been metric anyway (exc. a few odd bolts like maybe battery clamps), so something isn't adding up. I have never seen a U.S. car w/ a hard metal vac tube at the booster either.
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2015, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
... I have never seen a U.S. car w/ a hard metal vac tube at the booster either.
I missed that - where did that nugget of information come from?

Just to help: The big line from my pump to booster is clear plastic with a check valve in it. "Brass" (or brass looking) fittings on either end with bayonet ridges pushed into tubing...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2015, 10:52 AM
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Sorry to hear about your fitment issues.

If you are spending the big bucks for a reman/new booster, consider buying a 1st gen W126 (300SD) unit.

Bolt in swap to the master cylinder and pedal, just need to stretch the forward brake line a bit.

Improves braking performance and feel quite a bit
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  #8  
Old 07-21-2015, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
I missed that - where did that nugget of information come from? ...
Sorry to cause a fuss. Perhaps I should have phrased exactly for purists - "a metal fitting w/ stubby metal tube that connects to a nylon tube".
All U.S. cars I have worked on have a rubber fitting that plugs into the vacuum booster.
To go global, has anyone seen a Girling-type booster on an older U.S. or British car, i.e. any car that would have SAE nuts? If not, most likely the OP's booster is metric.
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2015, 03:57 PM
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I have seen ATE and Bendix Brake Boosters on the W123`s, and I also think I have seen a Gerling.

The 4 nuts holding the Booster to the Firewall are 13mm don`t know the thread pitch.
There are 2 13mm nuts holding the MC to the Boosterr, they are metric also.

The vacuum line to the Booster is Metric, and either 17 or 19mm.

So if the nuts bolting the old Booster to the firewall do not screw onto the new Booster along with the vac line, then you have the wrong one.

It`s all Metric, not SAE


Charlie

sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #10  
Old 07-21-2015, 06:09 PM
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RudeButler,
I'll add that the 4 nuts that mount the booster are usually all-metal "self-locking" nuts. They are supposed to screw on tight. The outer end of the nut is swaged down to make it tight. Try a regular metric nut and see if it doesn't screw on as you expect. The 5/16" SAE nut you tried might be too loose. I had the booster off both my 300D's, but don't recall exactly since have fooled with my U.S. boosters. Be real careful starting the nut on the vacuum tube, since it is a fine thread and easy to cross-thread.
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  #11  
Old 07-22-2015, 03:00 AM
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Not all of the 4 nuts are locking nuts. some have a lock washer and then the nut.

Later on with the W124, W201 and maybe the Gen II W126, the nuts have a washer that is part of the nut that swivels.


Charlie

sent from mu pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2015, 01:36 AM
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You need to determine what exactly you ordered first (the supplier catalog # doesn't mean anything - you need to state the actual MB part number to see if it matches).

I recently did this work on my car, the diaphragm no longer held vacuum and had a slow leak.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mbeige/sets/72157648069417398
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2015, 12:01 AM
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MBeige,
Great photos in the link. Most here will envy your rust-free SoCal car. I also removed the booster, on both my 84 & 85 300D because the MC's had been leaking. I had similar missing paint from the leaked brake fluid, but at least these boosters are aluminum. After getting the glycol out of the innards and repainting, I re-used the boosters. I now have DOT 5 silicone fluid in both cars, so no more paint removal nor internal rust to cause leaking seals.
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  #14  
Old 08-01-2015, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
MBeige,
Great photos in the link. Most here will envy your rust-free SoCal car. I also removed the booster, on both my 84 & 85 300D because the MC's had been leaking. I had similar missing paint from the leaked brake fluid, but at least these boosters are aluminum. After getting the glycol out of the innards and repainting, I re-used the boosters. I now have DOT 5 silicone fluid in both cars, so no more paint removal nor internal rust to cause leaking seals.
Thank you. I try to photo document the major repairs and upgrades as much as possible.

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