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  #16  
Old 07-21-2015, 08:04 PM
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Other than the grossest of viscosity comparison, eyes and fingers are not oil analysis equipment. I'd flatly disregard any "data" acquired in such a fashion.

Also keep in mind that the kid that changes oil and rotates tires may well be much less experienced than a "mechanic."

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  #17  
Old 07-22-2015, 06:59 AM
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If the kid is unfamiliar with the oil change from an IDI diesel crankcase fresh oil change oil would look horrible. ..
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  #18  
Old 07-22-2015, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I have had experimented and have had 3 different Bypass Oil Filters on My car. Currengly I am using a Frantz Toiilet Paper type element bypass oil filter

I'm OK with bypass filters to polish the oil, but I'd never use toilet paper as an element. Toilet paper is designed to come apart when wet. Moisture in the oil will cause fibers to break free. This can cause piston squirters or any small oiling orifice to become clogged.
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  #19  
Old 07-22-2015, 08:11 PM
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Yeah, use diesel rated oil.
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  #20  
Old 07-23-2015, 01:49 AM
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also use a diesel rated mechanic.

Charlie

sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #21  
Old 07-23-2015, 06:36 AM
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^ lol...
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  #22  
Old 07-23-2015, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
It takes ~20min to burn off water in eng/trans/diff oil. Since Fridays you get a good distance in, I wouldn't worry too much. Short trips are generally not engine friendly.
This is what I go by too. Oils are hydroscopic, meaning they collect or absorb water. Need to heat them up to operating temp for about 20 minutes or so. On the 300 Sls (Gullwings) I've read they have an 8 quart sump. In the US owners only fill to 5 quarts. The car was designed to run 130 mph or faster on the Autobahn for serveral hours at a time. So, here in the US, the oil wouldn't get to temp.
I don't see anything the OP is doing wrong. Is using Rotella T5 (semi synthetic), running about one 1 hour trip every week, so heat temp. I am guessing a southern climate (as to 'swamp' in location). I do use a block heater in the early spring and late fall (240D). I also use a lighter oil 10W-30 Rotella at that time. I don't drive it in the snow. So a block heater might help on the short trips, but is a bit of an inconvenience.
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  #23  
Old 07-23-2015, 10:18 AM
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You can do a mild Italian tune up at low speeds, just drop a gear for a while and let the revs go up. For example-3rd gear at 50mph, etc.
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  #24  
Old 07-23-2015, 12:08 PM
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^ I'm thinking the same thing, it's the rpm, not the speed.
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  #25  
Old 07-24-2015, 09:43 PM
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The car will be under more load in top gear at highway speeds than in a reduction gear at street speeds. The higher load means more fuel injected. That means higher cylinder temps.

If the OP just sticks to his 70 mile trip, the oil will have the moisture boiled out and that point becomes nullified. The basic additives will neutralize the acidic compounds created by the moisture in the oil until it is boiled out. That's why I suggest sticking to a 3,000 mile OCI. Short trips and cold engines mean looser fitting parts and a less than ideal burn of the fuel, creating more soot for the oil to suspend. The soot loading will approach 1% much quicker in this case, another reason why 3k miles is a good interval.

As said, if you are really that concerned about what's going on in your crankcase, send a sample to Blackstone and let them tell you. Nobody is born with oil analysis capable fingertips.

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