You may want to double check that fill level. The W123 FSM does have a cold fluid fill level spec, but it's not 5mm, it's 30mm below the low level mark. From my measurements, that's just about the top of the "peak" of the wave at the bottom of the dipstick when looking at the side with the marks. That's a starting point and ensures it's not overfilled. I still drive it until hot and check again to confirm.

As for the OP, I'm still suspecting that it was initially overfilled and some damage was done by driving it several days in such a condition. Misunderstanding the method of refill after fluid change seems like a common way to damage these transmissions. It's why whunter always seems to recommend actually measuring the exact amount of trans fluid removed and then refilling with just that amount. That prevents any potential refill mistakes.

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The transmission is back to normal. It was only driven 40 miles before the issues appeared.
Overfilling does nothing but release foamy fluid out the vent.
A bottle of snake oil and a quart of 30W have the valve bodies moving normally.

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker

Foamy oil does not lubricate. That's why it's bad.

I'm happy the SAE30 engine oil has the transmission shifting well for you, and I hope for your sake that it's a long lasting solution and not a short term limp fix.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
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Thanks
I hope so too.

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker

Oils, either engine or trans..... which have been foamed... need to be replaced.
The lubrication ability of them is very short and determined by the temperature and the oxygen combo they have been subjected to.
Not right of Barry to use the term snake oils with reference to what has been suggested by people here on the forum.... and they do not help the trans by having detergent... but by having SOLVENTS which can dissolve the built up varnish in the little holes which route and control the hydraulic fluid which controls which clutches activate and how fast they activate....... important because if left activating slowly then excess and fast wear happens....
Trans-x and Lucas Trans fix have great reputations.....built over decades.... for what they are supposed to do..... I have not used Kreen but expect it to be in that same category.... my 40 year experience with Trans X is recounted in the archives.. including saving a Lincoln by swelling a rear seal.....
I would never add anything which was not approved by the Mercedes Factory.... you might be ok with a non detergent oil ...30 wt... or you might need a detergent oil ... but if the factory has not approved it... you are on your own as to possibly causing more problems than you started with....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

We refer to additives in general as snake oils. Although some do what they are supposed to do on many occasions. Just depends on what is wrong.

Once certain the transmission has really settled down again personally I might change at least some of the transmission oil. I do not know how much could be vacuum syphoned out of the dipstick tube measured and replenished with the same amount.

Anyways one way or another I am glad it seems to have worked out. I base this opinion on the seals where doing their job before you changed the oil. So you did not require increased seal expansion or only a light amount for general conditioning that in all probability has occurred needed or not. I suspect the solvents as mentioned in the snake oil loosened up or dissolved some trash.

The common usage and history of the term ' snake oil ' is pejorative. People do not know you are using it differently unless you indicate that some way....

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snake_oil

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

I stand corrected . I always assumed hydraulic oil has from a different base stock.

Mineral oil appears to be the refferanced common base of transmission oil. This is an oil extracted in cracking towers above basic motor oil and before gasoline as far as I can establish. I still suspect it has further additives incorporated to protect seals from it. There is an extensive additive package to transmission fluids. I always just thought the inner rubber transmission seals where almost normal rubber but obviously must be a blend. I am weak on chemistry.