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  #1  
Old 07-30-2015, 02:31 PM
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cruise control sometimes working

Somedays it is good and some days it is bad. After reading online it seems that this symptom is usually caused by the amplifier. The question is, what is the common failure of the amplifier? Is grounding the first thing i should be checking (or change the grounding alltogether?)or is there some common area that the amplifier usually fails on?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 07-30-2015, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ambush276 View Post
Somedays it is good and some days it is bad. After reading online it seems that this symptom is usually caused by the amplifier. The question is, what is the common failure of the amplifier? Is grounding the first thing i should be checking (or change the grounding alltogether?)or is there some common area that the amplifier usually fails on?

Thanks!
Two most common failures are capacitors on the board and failure in the solder joints. Other failures can be connectors and actuator. I tried to fix mine as well as one on the donor car and was unsuccessful. JamesDean is the resident expert and fixed mine so it works perfect.
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2015, 02:47 PM
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Ya, bad caps. Easy to fix if you are familiar with soldering. When replacing, only uf rating is important. Voltage rating just need to the same as original or higher. Most are over-rated anyway.
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:27 PM
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Tantalum caps go bad over time (usually tan, pear-shaped). They were widely used as bus terminators on PC motherboards so people worried about the life, but most PC's get replaced within a decade anyway. Cars have a much longer useful life. Electrolytics (cylindrical cans) can last longer if they don't see heat, but have liquid inside that can dry up. Ceramic are a better choice today, but most are surface-mount.

The under-hood actuator also gets erratic. People here have opened then and re-greased to good effect. I have mine off now so need to try that.

No rush for me since I rarely use cruise control, even in my newer cars where it works fine. I don't like the "run-away train" feeling. Wonder how I'll feel with the new driver-less cars, or even modern cars that can be hacked to affect brakes, accelerator, and steering. I prefer direct control of those mechanisms, but perhaps I am getting old.
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2015, 04:38 PM
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but if the caps were to go bad... why would the cruise control sometimes work?

The fact that it seems erratic would suggest something is loose/ground needs work. If a cap was bad.... i would assume the effect would be black or white (still work.. or never work).
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Old 07-30-2015, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ambush276 View Post
but if the caps were to go bad... why would the cruise control sometimes work?
They don't normally fail catastrophically (unless of course the magic smoke that makes them work gets out ) They start to dry out and become unreliable and become affected by heat, load and other environmental factors.
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Old 07-30-2015, 04:54 PM
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Ambush - I agree with you. In my '81 300SD I notice that I can turn on the cruise and nothing will happen; then maybe five minutes later, magically it comes on and works fine from that point forward. So is it heating up and some metal is expanding to make good contact or what?
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:52 PM
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Ambush - I agree with you. In my '81 300SD I notice that I can turn on the cruise and nothing will happen; then maybe five minutes later, magically it comes on and works fine from that point forward. So is it heating up and some metal is expanding to make good contact or what?
In the case of a bad solder joint, yes, heating can cause a bad connection to connect temporarily. In the case of old capacitors, heat can change the capacitance just enough so that the circuit will start working.

One additional note is that later cruise controls (late 124 and into 210, for example) seem to be more reliable. In part that is obvious—they are newer than stuff from the 123 era—and the rest is due to real improvements in the design and construction of the electronics.

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Old 07-30-2015, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
Two most common failures are capacitors on the board and failure in the solder joints. Other failures can be connectors and actuator. I tried to fix mine as well as one on the donor car and was unsuccessful. JamesDean is the resident expert and fixed mine so it works perfect.

Times two.
I've had several repaired and am a satisfied customer.

Jim
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  #10  
Old 07-30-2015, 08:44 PM
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Those cruise amplifiers are just naturally flaky as they age. To test for intermittency get a known working one to test with. Intermitents can be tricky. For example if you sent that one out for reconditioning and it performed the same after. One would wonder if the rebuild did not catch the fault or it is something else.

We used to use thermal techniques to deal with intermittents a lot. Cold spray in a can was one our favorite tools. Personally I was never a lover of any European electronic fabrication. From the perspective of gambling. Chances are it is probably the amplifier.
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Old 07-30-2015, 11:44 PM
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Thee are two after market cruise Control systems the forum members have used successfully.
The Audiovox-ccs-100 and the Rostra Global

The Official Audiovox CCS-100 Install Thread

Rostra Global Cruise Install Thread

Instead of messing around with the old MB units, this might be the way to go for you.

Charlie

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  #12  
Old 07-31-2015, 12:58 PM
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Figured I would weigh in too.

Most of them its cold solder joints that cause the intermittent behavior. Especially on that 14-pin connector. That area of the circuit board is not conformal coated.

I replace the electrolytic capacitors as part of my standard procedure to help extend the life. Sometimes they are bad other times not.

I have never seen any failed tantalum capacitors. So I've not bothered replacing any of them. Now in my audio gear tantalum caps get replaced, especially if they are in the audio signal path.

I'd be happy to help out if anyone is interested. I only charge $70 for an amplifier repair, any testing I do is free. Feel free to drop me an email. All things being equal, I think you'd be hard pressed to install an aftermarket system for under $70.

I've got nearly 70K on my repaired 005 545 05 32 unit in my 300D. Originally done around 2012 when I bought the car.

-Kris

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