Driver's door is difficult to close......
 

Likely cause is that the rubber insert inside the door striker plate (the receiver for the door lock on the B pillar) had worn out/dried out. You can buy them new cheap or if you want, just swap the rear for the front. The rears generally take much longer to wear out. It used to be possible to buy the insert separately from the frame but I don't think anyone sells them anymore.

The other thing to look for is if the door opening rubber trim at the bottom of the A pillar (the front of the door opening) had worked loose. I have size 14eee feet so I nail it all the time and when it pokes into the door opening it makes the door not want to close.

The two things that come to mind are door alignment and the checkstrap. If the checkstrap is warped or bent, it should be replaced or removed.

Dkr.

Spring in the door lock is worn .Wants a replacment

Post #2.

Agreed. And many of our cars of this era used the same part. It is side specific as ready to install however, the plastic piececan be swapped. I think removal requires a 5mm socket allen . sometimes the head strips. Your favorite bolt loosener is your friend. Spray all 4 bolts on all 4 doors then clean the heads, tap the socket home. Crack all 4 bolts on all doors. Grab the electric impact and buzz all 16 bolts into the tool bag. You now have at least 3 spares because usually only the drivers is bad. The most a yard has charged is $1. A drill will take the head off if needed.

I should have included this in my post. VERY important. The fasteners heads love to strip on these, with any excuse. You want to hammer/tap the socket into the fastener head for two reasons, first to make sure it is firmly in place and second to make it easier (hopefully) to crack it loose.

I doubt you want to pay for the dealer item....

Meyle or MTC would be a tossup in terms of probable quality. Both will be made in China.

The new meyle ones only last me two years at best, then the rubber part wears out again.

Ive seen a screw used as a mod for the door latching mechanism, just replaces the rubber bumper that is missing
Seems like the striker is looking for something to latch onto and the screw replaces it


https://www.google.com/search?q=site:peachparts.com+oil+cooler+lines&biw=985&bih=657&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AU oAmoVChMI0Kr-4_eLxwIVxaCACh36rgWI&dpr=1.3#tbm=isch&q=site:peachparts.com+door+latch+screw&imgrc=m5d0OaL7usz2mM%3A