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  #16  
Old 08-07-2015, 03:20 PM
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I wonder if you are attributing more precision to your measurements than is warranted. I could see that your car is performing very close to spec, but that your measurement is a bit off.
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  #17  
Old 08-07-2015, 06:06 PM
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I've seen a procedure for gassers where the temperature differential across the cat is measured. If the difference is minimal, it indicates a bad cat. I'd imagine this does not work on diesels, though.
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2015, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renaissanceman View Post
Would you happen to know what that procedure is?
I don't exactly, but as I recall there's a port somewhere on the exhaust manifold where a gauge can be attached. It could very well be the EGR port. You'd have to check the FSM, which I don't have installed on this PC.
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2015, 09:22 PM
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I got a nice little boost in power plus lower coolant temps when I removed my cat, it's basically a ceramic (maybe?) piece filled with very small longitudinal "straws". If you want to keep it, you could try blowing some of the soot out with an air compressor.
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  #20  
Old 08-08-2015, 12:24 AM
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Found it!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 14-0150.pdf (206.7 KB, 61 views)
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  #21  
Old 08-09-2015, 06:29 PM
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Thanks, Mxfrank! I'll check that after cleaning the carbon out of the intake.
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Mechanical Engineer -- I design and make otherwise unavailable car parts.

Garage:

2005 Volvo S40 T5 AWD, 71k
1998 Saturn SL2, 244k - 35 mpg (gone, never forgotten)
1987 Mercedes-Benz 300D turbodiesel, 4 sp auto, 155k - 28.7 mpg
1993 Tracker 4x4, 2 door, 8v, 3 sp auto. 134k - 25 mpg
1996 Tracker 4x4, 2 door, 16v, 3 sp auto. 108k - 28.6 mpg
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  #22  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
Found it!
Cool! Note on page 3 the list of 7(!) things to check before renewing (or in this case removing / modifying) the trap oxidizer, IF the back pressure is too high.
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  #23  
Old 08-11-2015, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
Cool! Note on page 3 the list of 7(!) things to check before renewing (or in this case removing / modifying) the trap oxidizer, IF the back pressure is too high.
Why bother, just ditch the trap ox.
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  #24  
Old 08-12-2015, 01:35 PM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
Why bother, just ditch the trap ox.
Well, for one thing, if a clogged trap oxidizer is not the problem, then you will have done a lot of work for nothing and are now polluting the air more than you need to.

Here's the list:

1. EDS brief test (07.1-1120)
2. Full throttle stop on injection pump (30-1010)
3. Air cleaner element
4. Charge pressure (09-5911)
5. Delivery of fuel pump (07.1-5701)
6. Fuel filter and pre-filter (07.1-5563)
7. Start of delivery (07.1-8240 or 8244)

Hmmm, air and fuel filters, throttle linkage adjustment, injection pump timing, many simple things to check that are routine maintenance or not hard to check with the proper tools.
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2015, 10:27 AM
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And also notice that the regeneration procedure is simple...load up the engine by running at 4000 RPM for two minutes. You can do that by shifting into third and driving hard. The oft-mentioned italian tune-up, documented.
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