Anyone pressed in the centering sleeves on the ends of the driveshaft?
Mine were shot. I got them out drilling a hole through the sleeve and
using two prybars. It's a very tight fit to get it started back in straight.

Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

Yes, I did. Getting them out was a difficult task but I don't recall getting them back in being much of a problem. Is it possible you've got some corrosion in the driveshaft that's making it extra tight?

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

The ones made of white Nylon thpe material?

You could run a bolt through it and then a nut to secure it in place, then chuck the remaining threaded section in a drill and making a quick and dirty field expedient lathe. Grab a file and hold it against the end you'll insert first, power up the drill and chamfer the edge allowing you to get it more easily started into the hole in the drive shaft.

I just put the driveshaft end in a large vise and used a hardwood block and large hammer to drive it home. It will sound different when it bottoms.

Note that the groove around the bushing does not drive flush with the flange as you might expect.

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1981 300TD 310k miles
1970 280sel 172k miles
1966 230 Fintail 162k miles

"Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?"

Thanks all. Good to hear people have had success with this.
I'll give it another shot tomorrow. Mine are steel with a brass sleeve inside.
Maybe a slide hammer stuck inside to drive it home.

Jeff

__________________
1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

You are supposed to put some grease inside of the Centering Bearing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Did some Google searching on the R&R of the Centering Bushing.
Found this old thread.

Propshaft centering bush removal

Here is a good one on pushing the Bushing back in.

Replacing flex discs - What do I need?


Charlie


sent from my pos computer

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Charlie,
Thanks for that flex disc press thread!
That's what this forum is all about, coming up with ideas
& sharing them. I changed my flex discs on this project and so
I have those on had to use. I have some engine assembly lube
I can use to help things along.

Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

I was just about to say: I used the old flex discs, but someone beat me to it.

Yaaaaay, this is the first time ever someone has referenced my advice. And I am a total dumbass that comes here for questions with every project!

Ha! #FeelsProud.

__________________
"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)

Ceristimo,
Just finished using your flex disc trick. Worked like a charm.
Used a really big washer next to the flex disc and smaller ones
to reach the bushing.

So, just use some syn wheel bearing grease inside or do I
need the magic MB lube Molykote that's specified in the FSM?

Thanks again for the great tip,
Jeff

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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup
2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end

I personally just used the high-temp grease you can buy in a little white tub in the autosection at Wall-Mart for 8 bucks or so. Several thousands of miles later things seem to hold up just fine.

A word of warning: I had the most difficult time getting the driveshaftt back in. It was as if it had gotten 1/8th of an inch too long or so, and it just wouldn't frikkin' go. It wouldn't clear the bushing by just a hair. Very frustrating. Ultimately we ended up loosening the transmission mount. I supported the transmission with a jack and a large square piece of board to evenly support the weight. Loosening up the transmission mount allowed us to push the transmission slightly forward, so we could create just enough space to get the driveshaft in. You might not have any problems, but just in case you do: good luck!

__________________
"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)