Astoria CV Boots
 

I need to reboot an axle on my 190DT. Since the axle disassembles without too much trouble, can I slip an Astoria boot on without the tool? And do I use a 3000?

I personally don't know the difference between 190 and 123/126 axles, but yes. You should be able to use the 3000 boot (and I'd recommend it, its thicker).

Either buy their cone (Its what I use) or a large transmission funnel. Put the boots in close to boiling water for a few minutes before you put them on, it softens the rubber a bit and will save your knuckles. Then lube the cone up with gear oil and use your body weight to slip the boot over the cone and over the can.

Don't cut the rings, reuse them with the Astoria boots. And if you manage to lose, break or mangle one of the clamps, buy some new ones, either from Astoria, an auto supply or Mercedes (only a few bucks). Do not use hose clamps, they'll end up working their way into the rubber and end up splitting your boot prematurely.

Yes. No need for a boot tool... but you need anaerobic gasket maker for the cap.

Thanks, that helps. Nothing's gone well with this job so far, so I'm hoping the new boots go on easily so I can be done.

This is good info to know. Thanks. :)

Here's the review. I had removed the axle on Sunday. The boots came today at 3:30 and everything was back in place by 5.

First, to clear up a misunderstanding. The Astoria boots are made of silicone rubber and they are thinner than stock boots. This should work to advantage, as they should be less bothered by heat. Hopefully they are strong enough to not be damaged by road debris. Time will tell.

The later axles make rebooting easier, because the inner CV is held in place by a single snap ring. Undo it, and the joint pops off the shaft, allowing the new boots to slip right on. The Astoria boot is a general purpose part. The cone is shaped in steps, you cut away whatever you don't need. I found that on the inner joint, this worked just about perfectly. On the outer joint, the boot was a bit short when it was trimmed down to the correct diameter. It may not matter, but again, time will tell. I also found that it's hard to stretch the boot over the cup when it's all greasy. I think I can now do it without a problem, having had this practice. But the first one was really challenging. That said, I won't be investing in a boot tool.

The clamps that came with the boots were OUTSTANDING. Last time, I had to go through several sets before I found clamps that fit correctly and held tight. These are general purpose, so they have to be cut to length. Once that's done, they worked beautifully. The crimp area is very large...about 1/4", so you can get them really tight.

And so, done. I think I'd use them again.

We'll have to wait at least 33 years for the good news though! Assuming this is on an 87 car with its original axles of course. It really is remarkable how long the original boots last, a real testament to German elastomer engineering!

Unfotunately if you buy boots that look like the stock boots they are not likely to las 30 Years.

I bought Cardone rbuilt Axles when I first got My Mercedes and they starte cracking after about 5 Years and it had stock type boots. So all of the look-alike stock boots are not created equal.

Also in the past 30 years the chemical properties of all kinds of things has been changed to make them less toxic to make or the simply changed the forumla.

I know there are certain paints and adhesives that do not work as well as the older foumlas did.

What did you trim?
I've found that the extra length works well as protection of the boot material. And it wraps around well.

I used a 3000, which has three steps. I had to trim the first two steps, as the can is 68mm:

F B – 3 0 0 0 detail | Astoria2000

I think the 2001 may be a better fit, although the shaft diameter on a 190DT is 25mm:

F B – 2 0 0 1 detail | Astoria2000