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  #16  
Old 08-17-2015, 12:17 AM
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This topic has been hashed over and over. Here's a source for some light reading on the topic...

Engine oil cooler and hose/line issue, link thread

I redid mine using aircraft braided hose and AN fittings...but there are dozens of solutions with varying degrees of success/longevity.
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  #17  
Old 08-17-2015, 12:27 AM
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mach4. is there a way to do your solution without welding/drilling?
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2015, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambush276 View Post
mach4. is there a way to do your solution without welding/drilling?
You can probably do it without drilling, but not without welding. Not sure I'd recommend it though. By drilling and tapping the oil cooler to accept a 1/2NPT to -10AN 90 you reduce a lot of stress on the cooler fitting. I don't trust my welding skills/equipment so I just took it to a local A/C/radiator shop to have it done.

Here's the difference in the two strategies

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Last edited by mach4; 08-17-2015 at 01:31 AM.
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2015, 02:15 AM
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There is many ways of replacing, repairing and hack job fixes.
I did a Google search for you.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site+peachparts,+oil+cooler+line+repair&biw=853&bih=569&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAmoVChMI6bHs-6-vxwIVBNMUCh1cuAdZ

If you want to do it the way Mach4 did, you will have to weld on the ends.
No you do not have to drill out the Oil Cooler, he did it for when he did his SL Diesel swap. Special application.

If the steel threads on the oil line corrodes to the Aluminum threads of the cooler, it will strip them.
Then there is a fix called "Screwed Nipples".

second post shows pictures of how to do it and the Nipple part#

oil cooler cross threaded...

I made a tool to remove the oil line at the Oil Filter Housing.
Engine Oil Cooler Lines on a 126


Charlie


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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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  #20  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:13 AM
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~

i ordered a new cohline line. What i think i will do is take the old line and retrofit some AN fittings and make a cable as a backup following mach4's guide.

The only other question i have is i probably drove ~6 miles after the line "blew". Oil pressure never dropped below 1, but i was curious if did some damage to the engine. Nothing made noises or acted weird... but still.. is there anything i should be looking out for as in damage, or was the oil pressure enough/ distance short enough i should be ok until the new line is installed.

--Thanks
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2015, 10:23 AM
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FOr a quick fix(or permenant repair if you're bold) this should hold (assuming you clean everything and follow the directions.

F4 Tape Self-fusing Silicone Tape 1" x .020" x 36' - Red Oxide: Adhesive Tapes: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

That tape has been holding the radiator hose together on my tractor, my stove's exhaust pipe, and my generator's fuel bowl for a year now.
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  #24  
Old 08-17-2015, 11:15 AM
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For future reference, driving with low oil pressure and a burning smell and smoke is bad. Please immediately pull over, shut down and see what's going on, before you destroy your engine.

Engine oil not only lubricates but also cools your engine, and insufficient oil pressure will destroy the engine. What is the magic number that your gauge should never go below? According to the FSM for an OM617A (turbo-diesel engine), at hot idle the oil pressure should not be lower than 0.3 bar. As engine speed increases, the oil pressure must rise, until at 3000 RPM the gauge is pegged at 3 bar. Procedure 18-005 describes this.

I would suggest that if the OP was cruising at 70 mph and the oil pressure was less than 3 bar, there is a good possibility for internal engine damage. Watch for increased oil consumption and low oil pressure once you get the car back on the road.
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  #25  
Old 08-17-2015, 12:31 PM
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simpler=Better. Are the instructions with the tape? I should probably do this first in order to verify the issue is just this broken rubber piece
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  #26  
Old 08-17-2015, 12:44 PM
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A positive displacement pump is pretty much a straight line increase in output coinciding with rpms...... since making the pump variable in terms of the engine rpms is not practical... they put valves which will release the pressure when it is beyond what is needed... and to keep from blowing seals.... on the back of the 240 oil pump three different pressure valves were available over the years...
Since he did not indicate any over heating or bad noises.... and if his claim that it remained over one bar... I suggest he might be OK...
not that he followed the best procedure... but our engines are over built and he might have benefited from that.
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  #27  
Old 08-17-2015, 02:20 PM
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yea when the line blew the temp was around 100C and never rose past 105c (radiator temp that is). The entire time driving (about 10 mins/5-6 miles) the oil pressure, on the gauge never dropped below 1. When at idle was around 1 and when driving was around 1.5-2. Never heard any weird noises or issues... just pressure was lower than normal.

Removed the clamps today, but i noticed that my radiator has both lines plugged into the bottom of the radiator (looks like a pain to get to).

just waiting for the new line and then i will unscrew the old line and attempt to fit the new one in.

Will update when its done.

Thanks!
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  #28  
Old 08-17-2015, 06:06 PM
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Place a pan under the Oil Cooler, then just cut the two hoses. Let the oil drain in the pan
Unbolt the cooler and remove it.
This will make it easier to remove the screwed on fittings. Hopefully they will come right off.

There were two type coolers used on the 240`s. Yours is probably this one.



The earlier one`s like my 80 use this one. It is a bit more fragile.

Attached Thumbnails



Charlie


sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilys/boobs.gif


Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #29  
Old 08-17-2015, 07:48 PM
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I would consider changing the oil filter housing gasket. It is easier when the engine is loose from the motor mounts.

Install all of the motor mount bolts before tightening any.

I like Ma 'solution because the next time will be cheap and easy.

And the best advice so far...check your work before driving far.
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  #30  
Old 08-17-2015, 08:37 PM
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charmalu i have the older silver style. I will remove it and then unscrew.

Will update when i finish/have problems
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