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  #31  
Old 08-17-2015, 09:05 PM
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Did a search of 240D`s on the www.row52.com 500 miles from my old zip 95073.
Only 3 show up, there were 4 last night.

Find recycled automotive parts from self service auto recycling yards! | ROW52

You are close to quite a few PNP`s, I use to hit the 2 in SJ, Moss Landing and Newark.
I was thinking you might be able to grab another cooler for a spare.

Checked PNP from up here and get 4 different ones.

Pick-n-Pull Check Inventory

PNP =2 - 81`s and 2 - 83`s
row 52 2 - 77`s and one 76

there is a 81 in Newark.


Charlie


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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #32  
Old 08-18-2015, 12:14 AM
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When installing the motor mounts...
look in the FSM... as it shows a ' gauge' which you have to make... to position the engine correctly before tightening down the mounts....
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  #33  
Old 08-18-2015, 01:41 AM
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Can you point out where you found the info on the gauge for positioning the engine correctly?

I'm looking at jobs 22-211 and 22-212 (covering removal and install of front engine mounts and trans mount) and the only reference to adjusting the engine is within 22-212, and only for models 123.193 (300TD) up to July 1981, referring the reader to job 22-220 Adjust Engine Stop -- Model 123.193. The process simply says to rock the engine crosswise lightly with the car on the ground before tightening the adjusting screw that goes through the stop.

All other W123 models, and 300TD's after 07/1981, are said to be equipped without a stop and therefore this does not apply. In those cases there is no method noted for adjusting engine placement that I can find.
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  #34  
Old 08-22-2015, 04:21 PM
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ok... So i replaced the oil cooler lines this morning.

So far so good, got the car up to operating temperature and no oil was leaking. The oil pressure in the car stayed at 3 bars after refilling with 6.5 quarts of oil and so far no issues with the engine (no oil leaking or weird issues in regards to that). The engine has the same responsiveness and makes the same noises so i think i should be in the clear (on engine damage) but will keep an eye out for the next 50 miles or so (and look at oil consumption).

A few notes on the process of how i got the oil cooler lines out without removing the motor mounts or loosening the the compressor.


Here is how i accomplished the goal of replacing the lines, and if i had to do it again, would probably take me ~1 hr total.

1. Loosen the oil cooler lines at both ends (oil filter housing and oil cooler for both top and bottom).

2. loosen the mounting brackets and remove the rear mounting bracket (very important) and will pop off both bolts with a 10mm wrench/socket.

3. move the lower oil cooler line down and out of the way by either taking it out or just pushing it down about 3 inches or so to the left.

4. Ok , just as everyone knows this is the tricky part. If you look at the top oil cooler line and the oil filter housing, slightly to the right is the steering housing (before it goes to the power steering pump). In-between the steering housing and the oil filter housing is a small gap where the line barely does not fit.

What you need to do is move the line that is by the oil cooler back and around the windshield wiper fluid container. Once done, you then have to push the upper line down as far you as you can towards the ground and twist it left. As you do this you need to slowly push it forward. (down, left, forward). If you do this at the right time (and assuming the nut that seals the line is not hanging at the very end) the tip of the line will clear that space and there will be a little tension on the oil cooler hardline itself (touching up against the oil cooler housing). If you wedge it down slightly and then push out it will pop through.

Once pop'd out the entire line will easily come out the back of the engine bay.


5. Putting the line back in is also somewhat tricky, but you want to fish it from behind the engine bay back into the compartment. I recommend getting at it from under the driver's side of the car and fishing the rubber line in first. It takes a little bit of finagling... but if you apply those instructions in reverse order... it should work. Once i figured this out (took me a while) the entire process took about 20 mins of finagling the lines, to get them in and out.

I tested removing the lines a couple of times with this technique and by the end i can remove the upper line in about 5-10 mins and put it back in 10-15 mins. The only real thing you have to remove from the car and put back is that rear mounting bracket.


I hope this helps someone and let me know if this works for you too!
(below is a pic of the gap i am talking about).

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  #35  
Old 08-22-2015, 09:19 PM
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I replaced the oil cooler lines twice on my car. The job is not difficult, but it IS terribly frustrating. You will need to either buy or fabricate a boxed wrench with the top cut out, so you can slide it over the oil cooler line. You will also need to make or buy one really thin wrench to hold the nipple on the oil filter housing, otherwise it'll spin when removing the oil line. If you need pictures or the size of the needed wrenches, let me know; they're in the trunk of my car still.
You will also need to jack up the engine again and remove the drivers side engine mount to get enough clearance to get the lines in and out. It's impossible to do this without removing that engine mount again.

It hasn't been too long ago since I did this job, so it's still fresh in my memory in case you need instructions. However, there are several how-to's to be found online, so I'm not going to write everything down, unless you really need it.

The job isn't difficult, but you'll be cursing in German by the time you're done with it...It took me 3 evenings, cause the lines on my oil cooler were seized. Luckily a torch was able to convince the lines to let go, without damaging the oil cooler.
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  #36  
Old 08-22-2015, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
......You will need to either buy or fabricate a boxed wrench with the top cut out, so you can slide it over the oil cooler line. You will also need to make or buy one really thin wrench to hold the nipple on the oil filter housing, otherwise it'll spin when removing the oil line. If you need pictures or the size of the needed wrenches, let me know; they're in the trunk of my car still.....
Seems like those sizes should be included in this thread for future reference if you get a chance to measure and post pictures of them...
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  #37  
Old 08-23-2015, 12:18 AM
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Crap, I saw this thread on my phone and failed to realize it was already 3 pages long. My post was written based on the first page. I didn't realize the OP had already changed the lines, I never saw this page. Sorry guys...:-(
I'll post some pics and sizes of those lines...
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Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
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  #38  
Old 08-23-2015, 07:35 AM
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Replacing oil cooler lines on a 240 D is a different job than on a 300 D. 300 D is much harder, requiring removing the motor mount and jacking the engine up. 240d has much more room. Don't forget the 240D engine has 4 cyl thus shorter.
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  #39  
Old 08-23-2015, 04:41 PM
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out of curiosity ... what is the major difference in the rear area of driver's side of the engine bay in the 240d vs. 300d (besides the longer motor in the center of the bay)?
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  #40  
Old 08-24-2015, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ambush276 View Post
out of curiosity ... what is the major difference in the rear area of driver's side of the engine bay in the 240d vs. 300d (besides the longer motor in the center of the bay)?
Basically more room due to smaller engine. Go take a look at the engine bay of a W123 turbo diesel and compare it to your 240D and you'll see. Another job that is much easier on a 240D is starter motor removal.
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  #41  
Old 08-24-2015, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
........ job that is much easier on a 240D is starter motor removal.
This can be done from the TOP of the engine compartment... no jacking up the car, no crawling under.... just bent over the fender.... after having dealt with my 81 turbo starter R'R I was really proud of this little 240 's mechanic friendly design.
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  #42  
Old 08-24-2015, 07:25 PM
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Agreed, the 240D is a dream to work on.

There is so much room in the engine bay, you can see the ground around most of the engine.

Try an ML320 with the OM642, you can't see anything but a giant rubber band ball of parts under the hood. Looks like the space shuttle main engine.
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  #43  
Old 08-25-2015, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Seems like those sizes should be included in this thread for future reference if you get a chance to measure and post pictures of them...
I posted a link in post# 19.

But here it is

Since I didn`t have a 27mm, I used a 1 1/16in. Cut out the width on the pipe.

One side has to be ground down to clear the injection Pump. wrench is
8 inches long.

Use a 7/8 open end on the cooler as a back up to take the stress off the cooler incase the nut is corroded on.

cooler is aluminium with steel oil cooler line nut.

Use Anti-seiz on the threads when replacing the lines.




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Charlie


sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilys/boobs.gif


Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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