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Nice Drive Shaft Modification - W115 and Others
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Anybody ever seen a drive shaft setup like the top one in the attached pic? Both shafts are from W115 220D/240D, but the one on top has a different slip and u-joint setup. The u-joint is a common standard unit. I just bought and installed a Spicer u-joint that cost me $18.
This drive shaft was built by a local Albuquerque shop that no longer exists. I got it from a U-Pull car and installed it one of mine but didn't really pay attention to it until recently. The u-joint went bad so I pulled the shaft to see what could be done and was pleasantly surprised to notice I could remove and replace the u-joint easily myself. There are grease zerks on the slip and u-joints too. This is a drive shaft I can maintain myself for a long time to come. Anybody looking at having a shaft rebuilt? This setup or similar might be worth asking a builder about. Looks like the front tube was replaced and the rear shortened to make room for the slip joint. Cheers! |
It looks essentially (more or less) like the shaft I had fabricated for the S-10. You might want to take a look in my build thread - the forum format won't let me repost pics or I'd put it up again.
Dan |
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So, I'll have to report back on it after I get a chance to crawl under the car. I'm pretty sure the number is stamped into the caps, or is maybe on the casting. I can see "SPICER" and there appears to be a number under the spring clip on the cap - see attached crop out of the original image file. I'll report back on this in a day or so. The '74 is back in "storage" and I'll need to make a trip over there. I've got stuff to do on it anyway as I am about ready to get her legal and back in service. |
My favorite MB driveshaft mod is this one, described and illustrated in the following thread here on PP
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3279492-post74.html |
Well, the u-joint caps and cross have numbers that don't bring me an answer (caps = P051; cross = SH 75). I suspect this joint is a 1310/1350 or a 1410/1480 leaning towards the 14XX side (something tells me 1480). I'll have to take measurements at this point to see what it is exactly. I'll try to remember to do that next time I'm under there.
EDIT: I found reference to a P051 cap having a diameter of 1.062". There are two possibilities - 1310 and 1330. http://www.machineservice.com/products/universal-joints/universal-joint-dimensions-parts-catalog/ The 12XX series also uses 1.062" caps but the cross is too small. |
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It's on page 15 (as they're displayed on my computer) but I'm too big of a computer dunce to get it to post here. Anyone - feel free to post said pics. No idea why the pic that posted, posted. Dan |
This is great - I wish I could find a shop that can actually do that for me.
I have visited 3 driveshaft shops in houston with a spare W124 driveshaft I removed from U pull it, and all have refused to work on it - i.e. replace the U joint. all three of these shops advertise that if it has a driveshaft we can do it, they even go all the way claiming that they do one off custom driveshafts and double kardans etc etc.. All of them point to a shop in Austin to get a new shaft as replacement if they see a mercedes benz or BMW driveshaft. So much for their advertisement banners of "we work on all driveshafts" lol |
I took a Benz shaft in to the local drive line shop I use here in ABQ. They've done a fair amount of Toyota work for me over the years. They said they'd have a hard time with a Benz shaft as they lack the right fixtures for mounting it. Balancing couldn't be done, was the main hitch, and my shaft needed that for sure.
A user posted to this thread about a shop in Portland that worked on a shaft for him. It's the last post: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/366977-w111-u-joint-replacement-info-needed.html Here's a good looking thread: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/293976-drive-shaft-u-joint-staked-crimped-place-now-what-do.html A guy I know here converted a W123 300D to 4 speed stick and he sent the drive shaft to Portland, maybe the same shop listed in the above thread. They rebuilt it and also shortened the front tube. If your local shop or the one in Austin can balance a Benz style shaft that's half the battle. If they can also build custom shafts then they might be able to do the slip and u-joint swap on your shaft but they just haven't thought about it from that angle. Might be worth approaching them with the idea, but only if they can balance. Seems that what kills this for most shops is not being able to balance the assembly. |
To save you a trip down memory lane in my build thread, here's the basics of what I did.
1) Procure the joint adaptors from Jags That Run (or other source). This get you from the 3-eared deal to a standard 4 bolt US configuration. 2) In a M-B application you'll need 2 adaptors - 1 front and 1 rear. My truck uses an S-10 rear axle assy. so I only needed 1. 3) Measure flange to flange with the adaptors installed. BTW - the adaptors fit TIGHTLY and you'll have to work them in. 4) Take the measurement to a driveshaft shop along with the recommendation from JTR for a Spicer yoke (fits the adaptors). Remember to tell them that you'll need a slip yoke in there somewhere (mine's at the front). 5) They'll make you a functional and simple 1 piece shaft assy. Mine was about $400 and I'd expect that to be about normal. 6) Mine is LONG (~63" IIRC) but is dead smooth. I'd expect the Mercedes shaft to be shorter and therefore not as fussy about balance. 7) Bolt that sucker in. You'll have a serviceable shaft for as long as you have the vehicle and it'll have standard components if it ever does need fixing. I have a 240D manual trans shaft and a 300 SD automatic shaft - no clue on the condition of either but I know that at least one of them needs a midship bearing. Free for the shipping or they go to the scrap yard soon. Dan |
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