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  #1  
Old 08-21-2015, 03:37 PM
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Location: The Netherlands
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quick change of brakedisk

I've bought another project car, because of the tax law here the diesel is to expensive.
So I wanted to change the front brake disks and pad, I have done it a few times before, and its straight forward....so i think
When I removed the brake calliper and the bracket, you have to remove the inbus bolt and the disk should almost fall off, or an slight knock with an hammer.

Well after hammering and hammering, shopowner tried (I'm using the lift there)
He can hit harder the me...but a piece of the disk broke off.

So I had to grind the disk off, the other side aswell!!



Ofcourse to add more to my "misery" an broken wheel bolt, the end was so stuck the shopowner had to weld an nut on it. So, my ranting for today

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quick change of brakedisk-img_20150821_191930.jpg   quick change of brakedisk-img_20150821_193858.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2015, 03:42 PM
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Ignorance is a disease
 
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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Whenever customer cars have stuck rotors, I use an air chisel alternating around and it pops them right off.
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2015, 12:31 AM
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Yep, and on the hub. I'd start with a few love taps from a deadblow. If no joy, I'd get the air chisel and hit it at 3 & 9 from the front on the hub and then from the back rotating it as needed to clear the backing plate. Usually a few back and forths and it popped right off.

On one occasion a coworker was going to TOWN taking his anger out on this one seized rotor. He couldn't get it off after 10 minutes. I went over with the chisel and had it off in 30 seconds. The rapid fire blows work better than strong blows from a sledge (like an impact gun works better than just heaving on a wrench).
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  #5  
Old 08-22-2015, 06:25 AM
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Trevor Hadlington
 
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You can remove the brake caliper first, then use the 2 holes the caliper was fixed on to the stub shaft . A bolt and 2 nuts in the 2 holes and use them to push the disc off the hub. And after you remove them, use a little copper slip on both faces ie disc to hub ,And wheel to disc. .Also wheel bolts .For easy removal next time .
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  #6  
Old 08-22-2015, 09:54 AM
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That's a great tip. On my Subaru, the rotors come from the factory with two 8mm holes tapped into the face. When the rotors get stuck, you just thread in a couple of bolts and force them off the hub. Makes it easy.
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  #7  
Old 08-22-2015, 12:01 PM
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When the new Rotor is applied does annone use a Neversieze type compound the Hub area so that it does not stick again?

When I have had stuck Rotors or Brake Drums I usually apply heat with a Propane torch. However, in S CA the rust issues are not the same as in other places.
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  #8  
Old 08-22-2015, 01:22 PM
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a touch of some high temperature lube like a silicone spray with teflon on the hub face can keep out water, prevent corrossion and make removing the rotor easier the next time.
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  #9  
Old 08-22-2015, 01:45 PM
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I use a product called "Squeak Relief" by Lubegard. It's a compound of wax and aluminum powder in a spray form. You'll find it with the brake cleaner at your favorite parts store. There's a similar product from Wurth, can't recall the name. I was surprised that you could spray this all over the rotor to prevent rust on the hat and edges. Anything that hits the friction surface seems to burn off the first time you press the brakes, with no drama.

Squeak Relief Brake Finishing Treatment
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  #10  
Old 08-22-2015, 01:47 PM
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I cleaned up the rotor (behind the disk) good. There was not much rust.
I did add a very little copper paste around de wheel bearing hub, there is sticks I think.

I am a DIY so never had this before, and am not super handy about mechanical stuff, prefer electrical hehe.

I put new ATE break disks on it, I don't think I have change soon again
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  #11  
Old 08-22-2015, 02:45 PM
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Your old discs were really scored....
I assume you put new pads on with the new discs ?
Perhaps new calipers ?

I would NOT recommend spraying anything on the part of the discs which are touched by the brake pads.....
just really really clean them with alcohol..... nothing petroleum based... no gasoline, no diesel, etc...it can get into the pores of the metal... then comes out when heated and makes a film on the surface of your brake pads.... bad physics for braking..
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2015, 03:11 PM
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Yes, I put new pads in of course, I used sandpaper to clean the bracket where the pads glide in. Then I used small amounts of pasta on the edge of the pads.

I didn't renew the callipers (budget) but I did notice one is sticking a bit.
Ill refurbish them myself if needed.

I bought the car like this, the old disks where only 7.5mm thick (0.295 inch)
New is 11mm

Sadly the lack of maintenance is everywhere on the car.
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2015, 03:25 PM
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It is not suggested that people renew their own calipers... per the FSM...
buy quality new and matching makes both sides instead.
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2015, 11:01 PM
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"I would NOT recommend spraying anything on the part of the discs which are touched by the brake pads.....just really really clean them with alcohol"

You'd think not, but I've used this stuff on both my Porsche and my Mercedes and it works as advertised...less corrosion, no impediment to braking efficiency.
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  #15  
Old 08-22-2015, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
"I would NOT recommend spraying anything on the part of the discs which are touched by the brake pads.....just really really clean them with alcohol"

You'd think not, but I've used this stuff on both my Porsche and my Mercedes and it works as advertised...less corrosion, no impediment to braking efficiency.
I do not understand the concern with corrosion... on the rotor.... one of the main advantages of Disc Brakes is that the rotors are wiped clean of dirt and rust when they are used...
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