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#1
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hot starting with no power 81 240d
Well I've replaced both fuel filters and the lift pump recently. When I stop at a gas station for a few min, I'll try to start It back up it will be difficult to start and it has no power and revs very slow. If I let it sit for about 10 -15 min it starts up just fine and runs great. I'm getting ready to do the timing chain since it has 200 and I dont know if it's ever been done, my next thought is the injectors. Any ideas would be helpful so I don't end up buying things I don't need
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#2
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When was the last time you set the valves ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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I just adjusted them about a month ago, I've adjusted and re-adjusted them a couple times
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#4
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You set them with the engine stone cold... like after sitting overnight ?
and you are sure of your readings ? Do you have mm feeler gauges ? Did you use the one oclock position for the angle of the lobe ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
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I like that you bring up the last item. Most DIY guides I've seen online aren't very clear about the angle of the lobe on the valve you're currently adjusting - many seem to think straight up at 12 o'clock is the way to go. But the FSM is pretty specific about the angle, and it's closer to the 1 o'clock. I also sometimes suggest aiming the tip of the lobe at the oil squirter, at least on the OM61x engines, as this seems to be about right as well.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#6
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The engine had been sitting off all day, and I used metric gauges, and also had the lobes at 1 o'clock the forums have been a huge help so far, this problem just started a couple weeks ago
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#7
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And it only does it sometimes, not every single time, my timing chain does rattle pretty bad until oil pressure builds up
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#8
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That rattling sound may or may not be a problem...as it is mentioned in the 615 NA 617 FSM...
if you ever take... or perhaps you might check on the oil pressure valve on the backside of your oil pump.... there were three versions of that... different pressures ... You are in El Paso... I would try again early in the morning ... it is has been a while since the day time ambient temperature there equals stone cold... Do you know the theory of why we are asking about the valve settings with regard to this complaint ? I am not suggesting you not change out your chain...and the things which ride against it..... better safe than sorry... just don't know that that is related to this specific symptom....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#9
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I understand the valve adjustment and why it's important, war I don't understand is why it would be a intermittent problem, if the valves are not adjusted properly wouldn't it do it all the time?
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#10
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It depends on the temperature they are at... when longer due to heat expansion they seal less well... making starting harder.... I am just trying to get you to ' base' .. if the valves are not set other tests have little meaning...
and actual valve temperature is something which can vary... so is in the list of things which can cause intermittent symptoms...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#11
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And I'm just doing the timing chain because it has over 200k and I only got minimal service records, same with the clutch, it squels really bad when downshifting and lately it's start doing it when I up shift and take off
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#12
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Good to do those things before they crater....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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Would sitting 5 min compared to 10 - 15 min cause it make a difference? I plan on doing the timing chain this weekend so I will adjust the valves again when I'm done, it's gonna be kept in a garage overnight before I do that job so hopefully it's cold enough
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#14
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One would think that would not make a difference given the cast iron block and head... but might depend on the actual driving just before that sitting and the ambient temperature..... once you go to idle... you do not move much air with your engine fan... if you have fans in front and they are on while idling that might make a difference.....
but this is just the first and most obvious thing to look for on the starting after running..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#15
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OK then we'll thank you I will definitely double check that when I have the valve cover off, now I have a question about the timing chain, if it is elongated it changes the cam and injection pump timing, wouldn't rolling a new chain just keep those at the same timing or am I missing something, I'm still new to this car, but it is so reliable, I drive it to az and back and I get about 25 mpg on the highway at 65
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