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#16
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The Astoria Flexx Boots use an Otieker (spelling?) type clamps. You can use a cheap Nail Nipper to squeeze them. I posted some pics on them. Do a search with the term "nail nipper". I bought one for $5 at a cheapie tool store and used it on the Otieker type clamps I used on one end of my Oil Cooer Hoses. And, the Oil Cooler Hoses are more critical then the Axle Boots. If you had the pneumatic Flexx Boot Tool you would also need an air compressor.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#17
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Also that is my Thread.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#18
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The air compressor is a non issue, as I have access to a 21 gallon compressor. Runs an impact fine so that spreader shouldn't be an issue.
I thought both sides are torn but as it turns out, its just one side, I now have a leaky fuel line that needs attended to. Time to bust out the siphon. Thats another thing that needs done, but hose is cheap so no biggie. Still will redo the boots on both sides as they are just as old as the one side that IS leaking. If there is a better method Im all ears, Ill take a look at your thread. I dont want to rip the new boots if possible. |
#19
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If the boot has been torn for awhile and you have been driving the car there is a chance that dirt/water, etc. has gotten into the CV joint which a re-boot by itself will not help.
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#20
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The tear in the boot is a recent development, and as I have come to discover only one side is torn. The tear is maybe a half inch big and its just weeping the oil out and not profusely leaking it out, and I have not driven the car much at all, its been sitting for the better part of a week as Ive been trying to round up the parts to repair my brake system.
When I did drive it, it was to school and back, which is only 3 miles. I dont drive hardly at all anymore, trying to conserve fuel as my job isnt paying well and Im trying to make ends meet on my meager income, add all this crap going on with my car and now its getting to the point where I just wanna sell it, fix my motorcycle and just move on. Im not griping at anyone, its just Im frustrated and I cant do a damn thing about it until my job starts paying more or I land another one. FL job market blows. |
#21
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Given the limited miles you drive and that the tear in the boot is recent, the CV joint is probably OK.
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#22
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Thats what I figured, hence why im trying to go through the trouble of just re-booting the joint instead of replacing the whole thing.
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#23
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It has been a while. It can be separated , annular? I think. The quality is good imo.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#24
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You say you don`t drive it much or very far, for a temporary fix, add some 90w oil.
De-grease it real good, and then use some Duct tape wrapped around it. Tis will get you by till you get it fixed properly. There has been more than one forum member that did this to get home from a trip, and putting a few hundred or thousand miles. Charlie sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#25
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1) De-grease the boot good, real good. 2) Check for grease inside the joint, add some high temp grease if necessary. If the boot just split recently then may be you can make do without adding. 3) Use duct tape to wrap it all round. Use hose clip or strong tie-wrap to zip both ends. 4) Use tie-wrap in grooves of the boot to re-enforce the duct tape. Keep an eye on it and it should last you for a while - base on personal experience.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#26
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When I had to do axles on my diesels a few years back, I attempted the Dorman boots & tranny-funnel method posted here and that was impossible. Some posted about the Astoria flex-boots, but others had trouble with those being easily torn. I also had doubts about long term durability of those 'softer' boots. At the time I needed to do mine, I found no $80 Chinese axles in my area. They started at about $115, and posts on this forum reported many problems with fit & reliability. So I went with the $160 CVJ rebuilts on my 240D and Euro TD. Got the OE style homokinetic axles, but I figure/hope the new boots will outlast me or the cars, and I won't ever need to do them again.
Happy Motoring, Mark
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DrDKW Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 09-17-2015 at 02:50 AM. |
#27
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I don't think I would have been able to do the job with the Cone Tool if I did not have a Vice well mounted to a sturdy Table. I am 63 years old and my upper body strength is shot but the Vice allows the use of your body weight but it was still an effort. I am guessing that the ATF Funnel is harder then the Cone tool. And, remember all of the ATF Funnels are not made the same so some likely work better then others. I used a genric STP from K-mart on the Cone. But, I found you need to reapply it to the Cone for each and every boot. Once the STP is on your hands it is more difficult to pull on the boots. So I had to wash my hands before I started pulling on the Boots but even then you are going to get STP on them. Others that have used the ATF Funnel have said that differen lubes did a better job then others did. From what I have read the Astoria Flexx Boot Tool seems to be the most reliable and easiest to use. I don't believe that the Dorman Pneumatic Tool was made to open up enough.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#28
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Look at the axle at the diff end, if there is a ring of bolts around the hub sticking into the diff, you do not need the stretch gun, your axle comes off and can be disassembled! All you have to do is open it up, remove the clip, and slide off the hub, and swap in the new boots.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#29
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Aside from the issues that are at hand, my car has decided to have an injector fail. #3 decided it wanted to let diesel fuel go all over the engine bay and make a mess everywhere. At this point, Im done. I cant afford to fix this thing anymore and until my job situation changes, Im out of money. The car is going up for sale and Im not gonna worry about a car for now.
Thanks for the help and info but my foray into w123 ownership is drawing to a close. The car will be better off with someone who can take care of it better than I. |
#30
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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