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  #16  
Old 09-15-2015, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KT1986 View Post
Hey guys, I have an 85 300D w123 and I have just discovered that my CV boots are torn. It looks like it just happened recently and the split is not that big, but its enough to start dripping oil. Ive done some research on the pros and cons of re-booting the joints vs new axles and Id rather go the route of just rebooting them.

I want to get the Flexx boots and slide them on but I dont have the special tool to expand the boot over the joint or the little crimp tool for the clamps. Is there a way to slip these new boots over without the gun and where can I find that crimp tool?

Long time lurker, first time poster. If I posted this in the wrong area I apologize.
There is plenty of threads on the methods and tools.

The Astoria Flexx Boots use an Otieker (spelling?) type clamps. You can use a cheap Nail Nipper to squeeze them. I posted some pics on them. Do a search with the term "nail nipper".
I bought one for $5 at a cheapie tool store and used it on the Otieker type clamps I used on one end of my Oil Cooer Hoses. And, the Oil Cooler Hoses are more critical then the Axle Boots.

If you had the pneumatic Flexx Boot Tool you would also need an air compressor.

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  #17  
Old 09-15-2015, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ykobayashi View Post
I happen to have two of the air expanders for the Dorman stretch boots and two of the little tuna can style crank tools to install these boots. I'm willing to let one set go cheap because I don't need two. You can read my thread on how I got two. Ugh.

Has Anyone Used: Doorman Uni-Fit CV Boot Air Tool

You'll still need a compressor. pm if you're interested.
If this is the Clamp Tool it will not work for the Clamps that come with the Astoria Flexx Boots.

Also that is my Thread.
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  #18  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:07 PM
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The air compressor is a non issue, as I have access to a 21 gallon compressor. Runs an impact fine so that spreader shouldn't be an issue.

I thought both sides are torn but as it turns out, its just one side, I now have a leaky fuel line that needs attended to. Time to bust out the siphon. Thats another thing that needs done, but hose is cheap so no biggie. Still will redo the boots on both sides as they are just as old as the one side that IS leaking.

If there is a better method Im all ears, Ill take a look at your thread. I dont want to rip the new boots if possible.
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  #19  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:18 PM
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If the boot has been torn for awhile and you have been driving the car there is a chance that dirt/water, etc. has gotten into the CV joint which a re-boot by itself will not help.
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  #20  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:29 PM
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The tear in the boot is a recent development, and as I have come to discover only one side is torn. The tear is maybe a half inch big and its just weeping the oil out and not profusely leaking it out, and I have not driven the car much at all, its been sitting for the better part of a week as Ive been trying to round up the parts to repair my brake system.

When I did drive it, it was to school and back, which is only 3 miles. I dont drive hardly at all anymore, trying to conserve fuel as my job isnt paying well and Im trying to make ends meet on my meager income, add all this crap going on with my car and now its getting to the point where I just wanna sell it, fix my motorcycle and just move on.

Im not griping at anyone, its just Im frustrated and I cant do a damn thing about it until my job starts paying more or I land another one. FL job market blows.
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  #21  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:36 PM
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Given the limited miles you drive and that the tear in the boot is recent, the CV joint is probably OK.
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  #22  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:41 PM
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Thats what I figured, hence why im trying to go through the trouble of just re-booting the joint instead of replacing the whole thing.
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  #23  
Old 09-16-2015, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
Homo or annular? I'm trying to decide what I'm going to do when my axles fail. I'm leaning toward chinese annular with lifetime warranty sourced through a local auto parts store. When they fail again, it becomes a quick and easy job to replace.

It has been a while. It can be separated , annular? I think. The quality is good imo.
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1 X 2006 CDI
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  #24  
Old 09-16-2015, 01:06 PM
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You say you don`t drive it much or very far, for a temporary fix, add some 90w oil.
De-grease it real good, and then use some Duct tape wrapped around it.
Tis will get you by till you get it fixed properly.

There has been more than one forum member that did this to get home from
a trip, and putting a few hundred or thousand miles.

Charlie


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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

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  #25  
Old 09-16-2015, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
You say you don`t drive it much or very far, for a temporary fix, add some 90w oil.
De-grease it real good, and then use some Duct tape wrapped around it.
Tis will get you by till you get it fixed properly.

There has been more than one forum member that did this to get home from
a trip, and putting a few hundred or thousand miles.

Charlie


sent from my pos computer
x2 if OP is tight on fund.

1) De-grease the boot good, real good.
2) Check for grease inside the joint, add some high temp grease if necessary. If the boot just split recently then may be you can make do without adding.
3) Use duct tape to wrap it all round. Use hose clip or strong tie-wrap to zip both ends.
4) Use tie-wrap in grooves of the boot to re-enforce the duct tape.

Keep an eye on it and it should last you for a while - base on personal experience.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #26  
Old 09-16-2015, 10:38 PM
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When I had to do axles on my diesels a few years back, I attempted the Dorman boots & tranny-funnel method posted here and that was impossible. Some posted about the Astoria flex-boots, but others had trouble with those being easily torn. I also had doubts about long term durability of those 'softer' boots. At the time I needed to do mine, I found no $80 Chinese axles in my area. They started at about $115, and posts on this forum reported many problems with fit & reliability. So I went with the $160 CVJ rebuilts on my 240D and Euro TD. Got the OE style homokinetic axles, but I figure/hope the new boots will outlast me or the cars, and I won't ever need to do them again.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Last edited by Mark DiSilvestro; 09-17-2015 at 02:50 AM.
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  #27  
Old 09-17-2015, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KT1986 View Post
The air compressor is a non issue, as I have access to a 21 gallon compressor. Runs an impact fine so that spreader shouldn't be an issue.

I thought both sides are torn but as it turns out, its just one side, I now have a leaky fuel line that needs attended to. Time to bust out the siphon. Thats another thing that needs done, but hose is cheap so no biggie. Still will redo the boots on both sides as they are just as old as the one side that IS leaking.

If there is a better method Im all ears, Ill take a look at your thread. I dont want to rip the new boots if possible.
There is only 3 methods to stretch the Boots. One of the pneumatic Tools and I had trouble with the Dorman one so the Astoria Flexx Boot tool is likely better; next is one of the Cones that is made for the job as I ended up using in my thread and a 2 others I believe have used; last is the ATF Funnel.
I don't think I would have been able to do the job with the Cone Tool if I did not have a Vice well mounted to a sturdy Table. I am 63 years old and my upper body strength is shot but the Vice allows the use of your body weight but it was still an effort.
I am guessing that the ATF Funnel is harder then the Cone tool. And, remember all of the ATF Funnels are not made the same so some likely work better then others.

I used a genric STP from K-mart on the Cone. But, I found you need to reapply it to the Cone for each and every boot. Once the STP is on your hands it is more difficult to pull on the boots. So I had to wash my hands before I started pulling on the Boots but even then you are going to get STP on them.

Others that have used the ATF Funnel have said that differen lubes did a better job then others did.

From what I have read the Astoria Flexx Boot Tool seems to be the most reliable and easiest to use.
I don't believe that the Dorman Pneumatic Tool was made to open up enough.
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  #28  
Old 09-17-2015, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah-kay View Post
It has been a while. It can be separated , annular? I think. The quality is good imo.
Look at the axle at the diff end, if there is a ring of bolts around the hub sticking into the diff, you do not need the stretch gun, your axle comes off and can be disassembled! All you have to do is open it up, remove the clip, and slide off the hub, and swap in the new boots.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #29  
Old 09-21-2015, 09:29 PM
Diesel n00b
 
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Aside from the issues that are at hand, my car has decided to have an injector fail. #3 decided it wanted to let diesel fuel go all over the engine bay and make a mess everywhere. At this point, Im done. I cant afford to fix this thing anymore and until my job situation changes, Im out of money. The car is going up for sale and Im not gonna worry about a car for now.

Thanks for the help and info but my foray into w123 ownership is drawing to a close. The car will be better off with someone who can take care of it better than I.
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  #30  
Old 09-21-2015, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KT1986 View Post
Aside from the issues that are at hand, my car has decided to have an injector fail. #3 decided it wanted to let diesel fuel go all over the engine bay and make a mess everywhere. At this point, Im done. I cant afford to fix this thing anymore and until my job situation changes, Im out of money. The car is going up for sale and Im not gonna worry about a car for now.

Thanks for the help and info but my foray into w123 ownership is drawing to a close. The car will be better off with someone who can take care of it better than I.
Sounds like the $12.00 fuel return hose is leaking... Simple and cheap to fix.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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