TD Owners Don't Wait - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

zu! · #16 09-17-2015, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by disqo

I believe the spheres in the w124 are accessed under the back seat. Same concept, and now it is like driving a dream without the bouncing.

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From inside you mean? That would make changing them a lot easier!

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Maxbumpo · #17 09-17-2015, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zu!

From inside you mean? That would make changing them a lot easier!

Actually they are between the 2nd row and the 3rd row, so you have to remove the carpeted panel on the rear floor, which is a bit of a pain, and I think there are also some other interior parts that you need to take out.

The hydraulic line connection is accessed from underneath, so you have to go back and forth to get them out and then new back in and connected. I did it solo once, next time I will get a helper to hold the sphere by hand inside while I attached the hydraulic line by hand from below, and THEN tighten up the mounting screws and the hydraulic line. The hydraulic line connections are just as fusy as the 123 SLS, you need to be careful to avoid cross-threading.

All in all I prefer the 123 SLS set-up to the 124.

compu_85 · #18 09-17-2015, 06:07 PM

The spheres fail with either the rubber hardens and tears, or if all the nitrogen leaks past. The spheres do leak slowly over time, on Audi's braking systems at least refilling the sphere will give many more years of service if the rubber isn't torn.

-J

dude99 · #19 09-17-2015, 07:42 PM

Quote:

On 210's I thought the went to air ride...

Nope, my w210 wagon has hydraulic sls. The w210 did combine the sls and power steering systems though, unlike the w123 (timing chain driven pump) and the w124 (tandem power steering\sls pump) the w210 uses a belt driven hydraulic pump that runs both the power steering and the sls off of the same system.

zu! · #20 09-17-2015, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxbumpo

Actually they are between the 2nd row and the 3rd row, so you have to remove the carpeted panel on the rear floor, which is a bit of a pain, and I think there are also some other interior parts that you need to take out.

The hydraulic line connection is accessed from underneath, so you have to go back and forth to get them out and then new back in and connected. I did it solo once, next time I will get a helper to hold the sphere by hand inside while I attached the hydraulic line by hand from below, and THEN tighten up the mounting screws and the hydraulic line. The hydraulic line connections are just as fusy as the 123 SLS, you need to be careful to avoid cross-threading.

All in all I prefer the 123 SLS set-up to the 124.

Thanks for shedding light on this max. So, if I want to do the pencil eraser poke test, is that something that can be done from the inside?

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babymog · #21 09-18-2015, 12:04 PM

Hydraulic lines are under the car, you would need to remove the hydraulic lines to gain access to the diaphragm and poke it, ... and I believe that you would need the sphere un-bolted as well for this access, might as well have new ones in-hand if you're going to this much work and don't know the history of your 124 spheres.

zu! · #22 09-18-2015, 01:02 PM

Well, now that you put it that way...

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Orv · #23 10-28-2015, 03:31 AM

Thanks for the link. Just bought a pair. I had been trying to figure out where I could source them, since Peach Parts won't ship nitrogen chambers.

1987-300TD · #24 11-02-2015, 07:47 PM

Just did this yesterday to my 87 300TD. I cannot believe the difference. My girl was twerking at the slightest bump. Now she will speed through dips and over speed bumps. AMAZING!!!

Both spheres failed the pencil test horribly!!!

I had literally opened every line to drain as much of the fluid from the system as possible. I also discovered that the filter in the reservoir was torn. Going to order a new one from PP.

As I had the reservoir out of the vehicle, I could not find a fill line. How high should I fill the reservoir with fluid?

Thank You In Advance!

dieselbenz1 · #25 11-02-2015, 08:47 PM

Here is a 210 diesel wagon.

1998 Mercedes-Benz E-Class TD Wagon | used cars & trucks | Calgary | Kijiji

zu! · #26 11-02-2015, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1987-300TD

Just did this yesterday to my 87 300TD. I cannot believe the difference. My girl was twerking at the slightest bump. Now she will speed through dips and over speed bumps. AMAZING!!!

Both spheres failed the pencil test horribly!!!

I had literally opened every line to drain as much of the fluid from the system as possible. I also discovered that the filter in the reservoir was torn. Going to order a new one from PP.

As I had the reservoir out of the vehicle, I could not find a fill line. How high should I fill the reservoir with fluid?

Thank You In Advance!

Thanks for sharing your experience. I really have to do it on mine. Just need to find the time. Btw, the fill like should be on the reservoir cap itself. It has a dipstick like thing on it. Takes some strength to pull it out. Just be patient and don't yank it out. Remember 20 year old plastic in the hot engine compartment tends to get brittle.

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zu! · #27 04-01-2016, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

I have long said the same thing about springs in general..... now you have both of those things done to the rear of your wagon.... and I am sure it is really nice now.
ONE CAUTION.... straight from the FSM of course... WEAR GOGGLES when working on the suspension just like you would working on AC stuff...

Hi Leathermang, would you happen to have a copy of the FSM on the replacement of the accumulators? I have run a search and whilst there are quite a few hits on this site, there doesn't seem to be a step-by-step anywhere that I could find.

I'm assuming reverse the car up on ramps? Remove 2nd row seats, and then? Also, I read right in this thread that the accumulators can be tested by poking a pencil inside them? Is there a pic of which hole to poke in? I have a set of used accumulators but no way to tell if they're good. There doesn't seem to be a place to poke anything in. Thanks for any help.

babymog · #28 04-01-2016, 10:57 AM

I don't remember the accumulators being very expensive new, but they're a pain to replace on the 124 and I wouldn't install used, JMO.

The car should be raised so that the suspension is extended and unloaded, and in theory there is minimal pressure in the hydraulic system at that time (pretty much none if the spheres are shot).

Under the rear/2nd seat are the bolts to release the spheres, the hydraulic line is under the car. Pretty straight-forward but you might fight the hydraulic line for a while getting the threads started, do this before bolting the sphere into the car. You will lose some fluid.

As far as testing with a pencil eraser, this is pushing it into the hydraulic fitting hole to see if there is still a diaphragm blocking this opening in the sphere, with internal pressure. If the sphere is "good" then there it is pressurized and the pencil eraser will not enter the sphere with moderate pressure.

jay_bob · #29 04-01-2016, 12:31 PM

And I would definitely purge the hydraulic system afterward. When I replaced my SLS Rams I rigged up bottles at the shock hoses, the bleeder valve in back, and the return line in the engine bay. I used up a half dozen bottles of fluid to flush and refill the system.

I also disconnected the lever from the sway bar and moved the lever up to force fluid to the rams. While you have the rear jacked up the lever is pulled down to the 'empty' position and you have to push it up to the 'fill' position to drive fluid to the ram hoses.

Keep a sharp eye on the reservoir and do not let it run dry!

BTW I broke my dipstick off trying to remove the fill cap. I just held the stick in approximately the right position on the side of the tank and made two marks with a Sharpie. Chucked the broken stick and just use the cap to close off the fill opening.

zu! · #30 04-01-2016, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

I don't remember the accumulators being very expensive new, but they're a pain to replace on the 124 and I wouldn't install used, JMO.

The car should be raised so that the suspension is extended and unloaded, and in theory there is minimal pressure in the hydraulic system at that time (pretty much none if the spheres are shot).

Under the rear/2nd seat are the bolts to release the spheres, the hydraulic line is under the car. Pretty straight-forward but you might fight the hydraulic line for a while getting the threads started, do this before bolting the sphere into the car. You will lose some fluid.

As far as testing with a pencil eraser, this is pushing it into the hydraulic fitting hole to see if there is still a diaphragm blocking this opening in the sphere, with internal pressure. If the sphere is "good" then there it is pressurized and the pencil eraser will not enter the sphere with moderate pressure.

Thanks Jay. Just to be clear, I will be raising the car's rear and propping it up with jackstands to completely relax the rear suspension.

Should I just purge the system first anyway? The fluid is practically brand new as I changed it thinking it would help, but it didn't. I would do the same as what I did to purge the first time, as in run the engine with the output directed towards a clean container, stopping it just shy of dry.

After that, release what's in the lever thingy using the bleed nipple? You mention that you use the lever to force fluid up the rams. I guess if I've already bled it dry at the reservoir, plus the car is angle down toward the reservoir, there wouldn't be much left inside that little receptacle right?

I wish I could've bought new spheres, but the way the Canadian dollar is nose-diving due to our sunni-ways new premier mismanagement new would've cost me well over $400 a pair. Pretty painful. I opted for the used set of $100 a pair and hope that the seller is telling me the truth that the suspension was perfectly fine and smooth.

As it stands, I think anything is better than the bouncy hard ride I get now!