Jacking points
 

I'm in the middle of hopefully finishing a rear end overhaul.
POR'ed everything, subframe bushing, trailing arm bushing, replacing one of the half axles, flex plate, new calipers, pads, discs, brake shoes, differential seals, replaced trailing arms, wheel bearings (**edit my mechanic did the wheel bearings), and finally rust repair.

Anyways, for the last 3 weeks I have put wood blocks where the subframe plate attaches to the body of the vehicle on both sides (where the two M10 bolts attach).

Is it possible I warped part of the body where the subframe plate attaches?
Thus, attaching the subframe plate more difficult?

Very unlikely...

What car?

1985 w123 300d (turbo)

I jacked it from that spot because it looked reinforced to me anyway. I took out the entire rear end in one shot, so its the only real spot to jack it from I think.

Get ahold of some 3/4" rod, stick it in the Jack Holes, cut it off about 4" out side the hole.
Give it a 15deg bend so it is level.

Then set the Jack Stands under these to support the vehicle.

Now before someone starts flaming me, I asked Roy where to jack up a W123 when removing the whole Sub Frame assy,
This is what he said to do.

This is what I used when I R&R`s the SF on our 85 300D.

Rooster just did this when he rebuilt the whole rear end of his 84 300SD.
There is a thread a couple weeks back he posted.


Charlie


sent from my pos computer

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/371334-replace-trailing-arm-subframe.html
My setup is in post #12

Good luck and be safe!

Jeff