A word of caution from an old timer...

I have had a pre WW2 Miller HeliArc since 1972. Huge unit with 100 percent duty cycle. I was told by my welder friend who was selling it due to a divorce that it would weld one inch aluminum ... it came with a huge water cooled tip which I immediately changed out for a gas cooled one. It is AC/DC with infinite controls due to the screw handle on top moving the entire armature up and down. I love TIG and use Argon. None of that slag to have to remove... etc....

But this comes under the old saying of " If you are a hammer everything looks like a nail" .

Sometimes welding , as much fun as it is, is not the best solution for sheet metal repair. OR when using TIG or stick or MIG... you will need to basically use multiple TACKS instead of what you would think of as normal welding... this is due to needing to control heat warping of the sheet metal.... way better to control it than to have to correct it.

Sometimes butt welding is not even the strongest method to put sheet metal together.... the use of an offset flanger and hole cutter and Clecos along with brazing and solid steel rivets... since that may not take out the corrosion resistance the metal has designed into it..... and the ability to place the patch perfectly before attaching it... even though it may not be as much fun and might look like it was jury rigged together.... may actually be a much better repair.

so the rule is study sheet metal repair techniques before choosing the method of repair...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgEIVUVLrnQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZSxhj_2Avg

WeldingWeb™ - Welding forum for pros and enthusiasts

Books

Famous custom car builders like Barris often used tack brazing through holes on offset flanges with wet cloths close around the brazing spot to control warping. Like on the original BATMOBILE...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batmobile

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Leathermang raises good points.

As far as your welds - pretty decent. You might try a higher flow rate on the gas and see if it makes cleaner welds. It looks like the base metal was pretty clean and that's important. I'm assuming that you jumped around a lot to keep heating dispersed and minimize warping. Don't be in a hurry!

You got quite a bit of spatter (I have "issues" with that too) and more gas and less distance from the shielding lens to the work helps. Also be aware of how much wind you have in the area where you're welding as it can literally blow the shielding gas off the weld leading to some of the issues you're having, especially spatter. Something they don't talk about in many welding classes is that IN THE REAL WORLD you often have to work on less-than-spotless metal - that's where the anti-spatter spray helps. Doesn't solve all your spatter but it sure helps!

I've spent many years welding on rusty sheetmetal (I used to do all mine with oxy-acetylene, a perfectly good method) and have picked up many tricks. It's NOT an easy skill to master and I haven't yet!

Dan

Good thots LM. Thanks.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?