I've recently noticed my rear hard brake lines need to be replaced as the lines are pretty rusty. Replacing the lines from the distribution block to both wheels seems easy enough. I noticed the line coming into the block from the master cylinder needs to be replaced as well. Is this one continuous line from the master cylinder to the distribution block or is a hidden joint I'm not locating? Thanks!

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1991 300d 2.5

While it may look straight forward, you can screw it up royally by using the wrong tools. Use a good quality flare nut wrench and a good auality crow foot flare nut wrench.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900

The line from the master cylinder to the T block is one piece, when separating the two lines from the T block use a pair of vice grips clamped to it to counter hold it while you loosen things.

The upgrade copper/nickel alloy brake lines will make any work on, repair or replacement much easier at somewhere around 2-3 times the material cost for conventional steel lines. harbor freight makes a real crappy brake line plier that is very useful when making any tight bends or any tweaking of the alignment of the threaded parts.

Not only is it one piece, it will probably come unbent. I found it impossible to bend such a long line correctly, and ended up cutting it and installing a flare union in the middle. I don't know why they didn't come that way from the factory. If you go that route, just be sure it's a flare union and not a compression union.

I'd like to avoid replacing the entire line back to the master cylinder. Cutting the line near the rear would be less of a PITA.

If you do that, you will have to have proper ball flare tools. It may be worth having a shop do it if you don't already have a high quality flare tool.

When changing the rear tubing on my 85 300D, I bought pre-made cupro-nickel tubes (flares already installed). By joining two standard lengths, I was able to come up with the length I needed for the longer tube. It bends easily by hand. You could perhaps make up the long run in a similar way. However, there may be some clips in hard to get at places!

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I'm now leaning towards having a shop replace the section to avoid further headaches.

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1991 300d 2.5