You still have not said how much for $4000 there is a 2005 E320 CDI with waterinjection and 235k miles (why it is so low priced) Cold A/C good heat heated seats great car except it uses oil every 400 miles. (which is why it is so low priced But it does not leak oil on the ground like an 85.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-cars-sale/372197-2005-e320-cdi-%244000-235k-miles.html#post3523781

My 85 w123 300TDT has an airbag factory...

Both my 85 w123 and my 87 w124 are daily drivers. I like them both for different reasons. If I could only have one it would be the W123. The W124 is faster, gets better MPG, is more comfortable (mines face lifted to a 94 inside and out) Wife likes it better of the too. But there is something about the w123 that just makes me smile every-time I drive it. Also, I see a lot of the w124 out there, but I rairly see another w123 wagon... It also stands out in a parking lot... never loose your car! The w123 is also the car that if I had the fund, I would have fully restored.

That is extremely rare....

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

I look for cast iron block at least,and A inline engine.I think its stupid to turn a counter balance in V6 blocks.Wasted energy.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Lots of good information here. The 300D2.5 Turbo (W124, OM602) is certainly a good choice, given the OP's likes and dislikes. I've never owned one of those so I can't write from experience but they seem to have a good reputation on this forum.

One key item for those who don't want to do a lot of wrenching and are new to Mercedes is to shop for a car with good service records, because it shows a car that has been taken care of. Buying any used car entails some degree of risk; for a newbie with limited mechanical skills or desire, it's important to minimize those risks. It's also valuable to have someone who knows these cars to preview it; as a newbie you won't know what to look for.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Pretty easy. Shop for one that does fit your "budget." Whatever that happens to be?

Since he wants something pre 2000, and without a 606 engine and with good aircon, his only option as far as I can tell is a w124.

I still think buying an old Mercedes without being a DIY person is daft..... Unless you have deep pockets... but since he's on a budget I'll rule that one out....

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

The 1986+ diesels perform better, but are more complex and expensive to fix. Indeed, most used high-end 1990's Euro-cars probably have negative value, due to parts costs, unless in pristine condition. A 240D is perfect for someone on a budget and if you don't fancy yourself a race driver. Insuring it might even be cheaper. Otherwise, a 1982-85 300D/SD/TD gives you a turbo, probably at the expense of some engine longevity. They are becoming very common in the junkyards here so many parts are now cheap. But you will still be far from the affordability of common daily-drivers like a 1990's Chevy, Toyota, or my Chrysler minivan, all of which can be bought in good condition for $500 w/ easily available and cheap parts.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

The beauty of the '86+ diesels is that there were a ton of the same body cars (201, 124, 126) with gas engines which started heading to the boneyards long ago, and make everything other than engine parts for those cars plentiful and cheap used.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Also the OP (who seems to have disappeared) said that he can't (won't) do valve adjustments, so to me that rules out all pre 1986 cars...

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

Getting your valves adjusted on one of the old MB diesels would have to be pretty cheap and infrequent. Any good shade tree guy could grasp the how - to of the adjustments, IMO.

Agreed! this is so true

hahaha, Strongly Caution , good advice right there!

this cannot be over-emphasized enough (especially in this thread )

I smile every time I drive my 123 too, LOL, they have a certain classy charm about them

yep

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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel 4x4
1994 GMC S-15 pickup 4.3 5MT
1985 300 SD
1978 300 CD
1962 220-S Fintail - awaiting restoration

Simple? Yes, infrequent? no.. it should be done at least once a year, preferably before winter so you have your best compression for winter starting. But if his budget it limited this yearly cost\inconvenience may be an issue for him.

__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold

87 300D or a 86 or 87 300 SDL.
Both get good economy, and have enough pep to keep up with modern traffic.

If you can reach a bit further, a 2005 or 2006 CDI.

A third option if you are not in the rust belt, is a 210 chassis with a diesel.
I cannot recommend a 210 chassis for rust belt driving.

__________________
1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12
1982 380SL
1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing
1987 300 D
2005 CDI European Delivery
2006 CDI Handed down to daughter
2007 GL CDI. Wifes

Totally unecessary to frequently adjust valves.
Learning how to adjust valves is almost a non-issue. Especially if money's an issue...... Virtually anyone can easily learn how to.....