A few questions :

I was trying to take a nice one off a wreck and apparently there's a supporting bolt/cap screw on the rear end of it I could feel (I think) but not get any tool into ...

Is it an allen head or star ? .

Also , this was on a California 1985 model and the IP had some wires attached to it ~ can I use this IP on my '84 that doesn't have these wires ? .

I tried to use the search function but got no hits , sorry if this is a regular question .

I'd love some links with pictures of what to do .

TIA ,

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

The wires on the back of the IP are for the TPS ( throttle position sensor). Its sole purpose is for the EGR system and can safely be ignored. Use it on any turbo 617.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

THANX ! .

Now , what about the rear support fasteners I can't see ? .

Do I have to remove the oil filter ? .

TIA ,

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

There's a "cheat" you can use to remove this (I've been messing with mine recently). That rear bracket has 2 bolts (13mm head) that go into the block and are comparatively easy to get to. Pull those two and the pump will come out with the bracket. If you feel under the rear of the pump straight down you should find them. Evidently it's OK to delete that bracket when reinstalling the pump - VSTech says he rarely finds them when doing service and there's no ill effects.

Dan

THANK YOU DAN ! .

I assume this is the bracket with the stamped in 'U' shape over the oil hose/pipe ? .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Bad advice! The rear bracket is there for a reason: to support a long and heavy pump. Whoever leaves that bracket out is a hack just trying to save time.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

BTW : I *do* like ' cheats ' and Flat Rate but I don't leave parts off.....

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Good for you!

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

As a Journeyman Mechanic I am always practicing my craft .

Fully 80 % of my work involves fixing DPM/DPO bodges , replacing missing bits and so on .

Why I love junkyards so much ~ that's where I find those unobtanuim bits , brackets , flare nuts , etc. .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Yeah that bracket also has a spring that attaches to it...well at least on the non turbo's....I have left the sole bolt that the attaches the bracket to the rear of the pump with no ill effects but I that spring is needed for the linkage....

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Thanx Jason ;

I am going to try another pump as I've replaced all the injectors , filters and screens , even the fuel tank and rebuilt the engine yet still it smokes constantly and it's making me crazy .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Another way to get at the Bracket is to remove one of the Oil Cooler Hoses where it attaches to the Oil Filter Housing. I think you also need to loosen the Front Bracket that holds the Hoses down to do that.

The pic is a blow up from the Manual. Hard to see but you can see the Oil Cooler Hose removed exposes stuff.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

That's VERY helpful ! .

I could feel # 3 but not get any tool into it and was wondering about loosening the oil hose .

usually the fitting comes loose with it and I'm working not at home here so I don't have access to the proper thin wrenches .

Looks like I'll give it another go to - night after I go off duty .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I should have mentioned removing the hose though to get it off at the salvage yard you don't need to. I have bypassed the oil cooler on mine and I'll need to remove my fittings (I made a loop so the oil still circulates properly) so I can get in there and pull the bracket off.

I don't feel the need for the bracket on a race truck that sees a few miles a year on a smooth race track - and thousands of miles on a trailer with good suspension. I mess with injection timing at the track and it's stinker to loosen that rear bolt in the pits. Mercedes has a habit of over-engineering the heck out of stuff and support that's required on a vehicle that runs thru the desert at WO rack may not be required for the way most of us use our vehicles.

I (gasp) also deleted the overdone alternator belt tensioner and simply pinch down the slide bolt - works fine with a lot less hassle. Again, this IS a race truck and I do try to simplify stuff to facilitate trackside work but I've seen no downside to this.

I put a lot of stock in VSTech's experience. He's seen WAY more of these than I ever will and I simply related his experience - that is, he rarely if ever finds this bracket in place and has seen no ill-effects.

Where it makes sense I DO retain the extra bracketry. For example, I've kept the bracket at the rear of the starter. That sucker is both heavy and subject to a ton of torque and I don't have to access it at the track so it's back on there and drawn up tightly.

Yes it's a Mercedes but it's still subject to common sense. I worked as a dealership mechanic for many years and I too spent hours fixing screw-ups from amateurs - but some modifications make sense and save the customer real money. How do you pull a heater core from a 66-72 GM A-body? The manual says you pull the RF fender and inner fender well with a charge of (IIRC) 4 hours, then do all the other stuff. How do you REALLY pull the heater core? You drill a hole in the inner fenderwell and use a universal socket and long extension to pull the couple of nuts that you otherwise can't get to. This saves the customer a ton of money and you can fix the hole with a standard body plug. So what's "hacking it up"? As long as you're up front with the customer there are lots of ways to make the repair high-quality but still cost-effective.

So we need not throw around that word "hack" too freely.

Dan

Do you know how to properly time and replace an injection pump?

Its a frustrating skill but after the sixth time it becomes second nature

I wouldn't go an replace the injection pump for the smoke...

If its a turbo, it could be the seals....

Also could be the EGR...carbon'd up rings etc....

My euro smoked so bad when I first got it, that I was cited by the state of California! After a bunch of hard driving....All went away!

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