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  #1  
Old 10-06-2015, 03:15 PM
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Location: Rochester NY
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717.411-->grab it for my 603?

Hello all, spied a 84' 190e 2.3 in the yard. 220k on the car everything is there. I've got an 87 300d with around 160k automatic still going strong. Just wanted to get some input and ask a few questions. I wasn't really planning on a swap until I saw the car, now here I am

1. 190e won't shift into reverse, all other gears are fine. Is the gearbox knackered?

2. Is this a good transmission for the swap? I did do some research and heard the clutch/flywheel setup is too small. Are there any upgrade options? Is the gearbox okay for a stock 603 grocery getter?

3. I 'm thinking I'll get the pedals, shifter, etc. should I leave the tranny? Leave all of it?

4. Is there a way to Frankenstein the driveshaft to work or do you definitely need a custom fab.

Gotta love this forum, no where else could a guy get answers like this.
Thanks fellas

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  #2  
Old 10-06-2015, 04:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: The slums of Beverly Hills
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The gearbox is probably fine, the problem is likely the bushings in 3 bar shifter linkage. Yes, the box will work with the OM603. Take:
Transmission
shifter
shifter linkage
pedals
hydraulic clutch pipe
front half of the drive shaft
differential input flange
flywheel

You can attach a larger clutch disk on that single mass flywheel so thats not a problem. You will also need a 260e or 300e 2.6 automatic rear driveshaft half to make the swap work. Regular 3.0L driveshaft won't work, it must be from W124/2.6L. Itll all bolt togeter and you wont need any custom fab. Manual w124 trans cross member can be bought online for less than $40.
Another OM603 5 speed swap
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  #3  
Old 10-06-2015, 04:23 PM
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Thanks tjts1, that's good info. Guess I'll grab it tmr, think there is even a 260e auto too.

The linkage bushings were in rough shape some missing but I worked the shifter pretty good and couldn't get it in reverse. All the other gears were fine. I'll get a better look
look tmr.

Thanks wish me luck, what should I bring are the bellhousing bolts 17?
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2015, 04:25 PM
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Location: The slums of Beverly Hills
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Try getting under the car and moving the reverse shift level on the side of the gearbox into the reverse position. There are 3 levers and all 3 have 3 positions. Center is neutral on all 3. You should be able to move all 3 by hand once DS is disconected or rear wheels are in the air, ebrake off.

Don't remmeber the bell housing bolts. 17 or 19 i think. Bring many extensions and breaker bar. Top bolts are a *****.
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2015, 02:26 PM
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^ You were right it shifts into reverse fine with the linkage disconnected.

Well managed the pedals, shifter and rods today. I was foiled by the flex disk bolts they're not 10, 13 or 17, the sockets I brought. I'll have to grab the remaining goodies tmr. Plus get myself a long ratcheting 8mm Allen for the front flex disk. Bit of a weird setup almost like 2 disks right next to eachother.

I did manage to break the top 3 bellhousing bolts loose from the engine bay using a box end wrench and a hammer.

It seems the 260e met the crusher or I knocked myself in the head day I saw it. Oh well just another piece to find. Maybe I'll hold out for an ASD differential could use that when the snow flys.

It was warm and the wrenching was easy. Haha cheers gents
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2015, 02:37 PM
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The "sandwiched" flex disk at the front is actually a flex disk and a vibration damper. You can ditch the damper all together. I bought new flex disks for both front and rear and used a rear one at the front. Make sure to get the Lemforder/Boge brand one. You can see in my thread what happened to the cheap chinese ones I used initially.

If you get an ASD diff, make sure to also get the matching speedometer because otherwise your speedo will be off. Your 300D has a 2.64 ratio diff and whatever car you get the ASD from will have a different ratio. Diffs and speedos are paired.

Heres a pic with part number of the manual cross member you'll need from the dealer or online vendor. Mercedes atlanta is probably cheapest online.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/attachment.php?aid=6716
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2015, 01:26 PM
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Location: Rochester NY
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Finally freed the oily beast, only took 3 days and 3 trips to the store. I'm definitely not pit crew material.

But despite the slow progress I enjoyed myself, I just love that grade 8 steel Mercedes uses for bolts and fasteners. Don't think Ive stripped anything to date.

Looks like there isn't room for a larger clutch in the flywheel, am I stuck with 8.5"? Or get a different flywheel and clutch?

Total cost was a little under $250, can't complain. The car had registration stickers expiring in 2013 I hope that's a good sign.

Anyways this is all a pipe dream at this point, no plans to attempt the swap soon. Maybe next summer, for now I need my trusty stead since it's my only ride.
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2015, 01:33 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
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Nice find, I too dream of this auto-to-manual conversion...
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2015, 01:38 PM
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Location: The slums of Beverly Hills
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There is a single mass flywheel kit sold for the euro market manual transmission sprinter which comes with a 240mm clutch disk and presure plate. I found it on rock auto for $300 (flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throughout bearing). It might be a good option for you. On mine I used the 190e 2.6 dual mass flywheel and 228mm clutch disk. It all works fine 30k miles later but if I had to do it again I would use the sprinter kit. Since you have a lot of time until you do the swap search the superturbodiesel forum for clutch and flywheel info. Thats been my go to source for info and you can always ask as well. I'm mostly familiar with the later dual mass trans/flywheel.
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/showthread.php?tid=421
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  #10  
Old 10-11-2015, 10:19 AM
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Yea those kits look mighty nice, that's probably what I will do eventually. I couldn't find one for under $350 though and I didn't see a throwout bearing in the pic. Still pondering if I want to use the 8.5" setup to "test the water" so to speak or return it to the yard and use the sprinter kit from the start. I'm thinking this spring to do the swap, assuming I can find a rear driveshaft and output flange by then. Somehow an ac bracket broke and I think my precious r12 leaked out a few months back, so if I was to do the swap I certainly want to do it before fixing the ac. Lots to consider, I may post later with questions or seeking opinions. Thanks to tjts and others for the information, without it I would be lost.

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