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  #16  
Old 10-08-2015, 06:40 PM
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Location: Alaska
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When I had a seeping oil line, just driving the car down the street and around the block made me nervous.
Honestly man: it is a gamble. Sure, that line may hold for another year, or it may blow up at any time.
Nobody knows, and all bets are off.

Here's the thing though: You wanna risk it? See, if that lines blows as you're happily puttering along at 75mph, you'll be screwed in a bad, bad way. And no peeking at the oil pressure gauge is going to help you. By the time you see the pressure drop, you're probably too late already.

If the rest of the car is already on its way out and you don't care about it, then by all means drive it to the ends of the earth with a bad line.
If you were hoping to keep it a little longer, rent a econobox Toyota Corolla or something equally dreadful to make the trip. Tourist season is over. Renting a car shouldn't be too costly (30 bucks a day perhaps, might even be cheaper on rentawreck.com or something) and fix your car properly when you're back.

Don't forget that even the most dreary rental is in fact exciting to drive, as rental cars have this amazing capability to be red-lined the whole time. Just fire up that cold engine and stomp your foot down. It'll turn even a Camry in a -somewhat- exciting driving appliance. Sure, your Chevrolet Spark or whatever might only have 84Hp, but you have that horsepower available the entire time!. So it might actually be FUN!

Of course, bottom line is that it's all up to you, and you might very well make the trip in the Benz without a problem...Then again, the chances of you finding yourself 700 miles from home with a seized engine are equal. Now, that would certainly suck just a bit, wouldn't it?

I dunno, wrap it tightly in duct-tape, and hold your fingers crossed the entire time you're driving? Who knows, it might work. Or it might not. Probably not.

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  #17  
Old 10-08-2015, 06:59 PM
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Sorry, mates. Should have mentioned the trip is a one-way move. So it's sell the car or go.
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2015, 07:50 PM
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Nobody has a crystal ball. You will make it fine, or you won't. Either way, it's your car and your decision, and you know what the stakes are. So stop wasting everyone's time and go already.

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  #19  
Old 10-08-2015, 07:54 PM
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Nope. It's "fix" the car, then go...You can have the oil line overnighted to you, they are not that expensive.

Getting it change out sucks a lot, but the good news is that it's only the lower line, so you don't need to touch the top one at all.
You can find instructions on here on how to do it. You do need to either fabricate your own tool (baiscally a box-end wrench with the top of the opening cut out so you can slide it over the line) or buy it (Tip: Google "617 Diesel Oil Cooler Line Removal Special 3 Wrench Set").

The job is annoying, but not hard from a technical point of view. It's pretty straight forward. Count on 4 hours if you do it for the first time, more if things are rusted shut.

Alternatively, have your Mercedes mechanic do it; he should have all the tools already anyway. With a lift and the right tools a mechanic should be able to do it under 2 hours, so it might end up being not that expensive of a repair.
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"The MB W123 is so bulletproof, you can drive them forever. Which is a good thing as it takes that long to get anywhere."
Betsie: 1984 W123 300D (hobby, 280k miles)
Myrla: 2001 Mazda Protege 2.0 ES 5spd (daily driver, 130k miles)
The Turd: 2007 Toyota Camry (wife's car, 118k miles)
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2015, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalba View Post
T-minus seven days till my 2471 mile voyage in the ol' '85 300TD. I've sorted out many small things, mostly with advice from people on this forum -- and for that I truly thank you.

My lower cooler hose is leaking. I've read everything I can get my hands on ... having the hose rebuilt, the AN modifications, etc ... All solid, but unfortunately, none I have time to do.

That said ... I'm talking about a peace of mind bodge, not a permanent solution.

The leak is coming from a small pinhole at the top of the lower cooler hose. It's a slow weep. Been going like that for quite awhile.

Can I bodge this JUST FOR THE JOURNEY AHEAD with, say, JB weld and self-fusing silicone wrap?

I'm thinking of cleaning it up, dousing on the JB Weld, letting it cure a good 24 hours, then wrapping silicone "rescue tape" over the JB Weld.

I can't see how it would make it worse and it may or may not help.

Thoughts?


Again, this is a small pinhole weep.


Thanks in advance.
Make sure you are a member of one of the Auto Clubs or have Car Insurance that provides similar services.

More insureance. Change out the Hose before you go.

Not sure where you are in Alaska. A trunk full of survival gear in case you need to walk.
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  #21  
Old 10-08-2015, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalba View Post
I hear ya. Unfortunately, I don't really have time to cut off the crimps and install a new hose. And I'm sort of locked in to making this trip.

My local Merc mechanic said, "It could go like that another ten years, or blow any time."

But again, I'm looking for a short-term bodge.
It is more likely to blow then to last 10 yeas.

Stop someplace a long the way and change the Hose and hope you don't strip a Nipple on the Oil Cooler.

Long trips bring out the problems in a Car sooner then they would if they were just driving locally.
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  #22  
Old 10-08-2015, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
and hope you don't strip a Nipple on the Oil Cooler.
Thats the beauty of replacing just the rubber. You don't have to worry about stripping the oil cooler threads.
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1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #23  
Old 10-09-2015, 12:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dude99 View Post
Thats the beauty of replacing just the rubber. You don't have to worry about stripping the oil cooler threads.

I'm calling Napa tomorrow to see if they have a suitable 5/8". I believe they have that MegaTech high heat hose many carry in stock. Removing the crimp ferrule with my Dremel seems like the easiest fit. Two clamps on each side, right?

Hell, that other dude is right ... I need to just shut it and go.
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  #24  
Old 10-09-2015, 08:37 AM
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No time get a mechanic to change the hose? What has not been mentioned is this hose is under greater stress when highway running than say around town.

As a result most failures occur on the highway. It should be changed out anyways. Sure it may make the trip but if it does not you will need a new engine in more than 90 percent of the cases.

If you go hose and clamps run safety wires under the clamps and anchor them. That way the replacement hose cannot blow off the barb in the future.
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  #25  
Old 10-09-2015, 09:26 AM
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So you know you have a weeping hose when you look at the hose. This turns into a mist spray at highway speeds quite fast. I've seen this mist spray the drivers brake disk and greatly reduce braking efficiency. So if you leave a ton of room between you and the driver in front of you go down hills slowly etc. and if the hose dosen't brake at speed you might be ok. But why risk others, your safety and car knowing all this? Repair properly or find al alternate ride would the the only option you should consider!
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  #26  
Old 10-09-2015, 10:29 AM
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Fixing the line is a pita no matter - what especially the 1st time. The lower line comes out 1st and is the easiest to R&R. We rent cars for trips because the higher fuel mileage and lower price of gas vs diesel pays for the rental.

I would do anything possible not to drive the car with a leaking hose. IF it blows, you loose the engine and have a disabled car where ever the carnage happens. A 1 way trip implies moving. Are you taking a truck or moving in this car? If any tow vehicle is available, rent a flat bed or at least a tow dolly.

Check on the details of whether the drive shaft needs to drop to tow. I've read that the rear pump in the trans makes it ok to tow but remember dropping the shaft in the Georgia heat when i had recently acquired my SD.

If you're not willing to do what is necessary to repair the line, just go. There is little point in doing a half fast repair like the unspecified, tried, planned or designed JB rig. JB isn't designed to work on oily flexing rubber. I've done many very foolish things and came out ok. Hopefully, my children will do fewer foolish things and still come out intact. Hopefully you and the car will survive this move.
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  #27  
Old 10-09-2015, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalba
Two clamps on each side, right?
I used two T-Bar clamps on each end. I heartily recommended them over the standard worm gear hose clamps. The worm gear ones are weak and fail too easily. T-Bar clamps are much better built.
__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #28  
Old 10-09-2015, 10:40 AM
dkr dkr is offline
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The oil pressure on these cars is about 150psi. If it wants to come out, there is absolutely nothing you can do to keep the line back on, short of replacing it. And, at that time, you will probably be far away from home and looking for a new engine as well.

You could bypass the oil cooler for the trip, but if I were you, I would replace it properly or rent a car for the trip.

Dkr.
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  #29  
Old 10-09-2015, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
When I had a seeping oil line, just driving the car down the street and around the block made me nervous.
Honestly man: it is a gamble. Sure, that line may hold for another year, or it may blow up at any time.
Nobody knows, and all bets are off.

Here's the thing though: You wanna risk it? See, if that lines blows as you're happily puttering along at 75mph, you'll be screwed in a bad, bad way. And no peeking at the oil pressure gauge is going to help you. By the time you see the pressure drop, you're probably too late already.

If the rest of the car is already on its way out and you don't care about it, then by all means drive it to the ends of the earth with a bad line.
If you were hoping to keep it a little longer, rent a econobox Toyota Corolla or something equally dreadful to make the trip. Tourist season is over. Renting a car shouldn't be too costly (30 bucks a day perhaps, might even be cheaper on rentawreck.com or something) and fix your car properly when you're back.

Don't forget that even the most dreary rental is in fact exciting to drive, as rental cars have this amazing capability to be red-lined the whole time. Just fire up that cold engine and stomp your foot down. It'll turn even a Camry in a -somewhat- exciting driving appliance. Sure, your Chevrolet Spark or whatever might only have 84Hp, but you have that horsepower available the entire time!. So it might actually be FUN!

Of course, bottom line is that it's all up to you, and you might very well make the trip in the Benz without a problem...Then again, the chances of you finding yourself 700 miles from home with a seized engine are equal. Now, that would certainly suck just a bit, wouldn't it?

I dunno, wrap it tightly in duct-tape, and hold your fingers crossed the entire time you're driving? Who knows, it might work. Or it might not. Probably not.
I don't destroy other peoples' things when they loan them to me. To abuse a rental is morally wrong and I don't ever do it. Plus, people end up buying those cars once they have ~50k on them and the fleet let's go. I wouldn't want a car that was flogged horribly like that. Plus, if they can prove neglect they'll charge your credit card till you start crying.
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  #30  
Old 10-09-2015, 12:33 PM
Fold on dotted line
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SE Mich
Posts: 3,284
Quote:
Originally Posted by catalba View Post
What belt could be damaging it? There is no belt anywhere near the lower oil cooler hose on my 85 300TD.
You have spent more time debating the fastest way to do it cheaply than it would take to do it right the first time.

If you have to take this trip, either get the hose made professionally at a hydraulic shop/ or MB dealer, or rent a Dodge Van.

When I was young and had more time, I did things your way. Now I'm older with less time (I never work more than 16 hours per day) so I do it right.

The cost is certainly lower than ruining the car in Mirrors, Oklahome on US-35

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