seems like a fuel issue... ran fine last night, this morning turns over, runs for a second, and dies.

replaced plastic secondary fuel filter, no change. cracked banjo bolt going to main filter, fuel is pumping out so it's not the pump or tank strainer.

haven't replaced main filter, but not sure that's the problem if it keeps running for a second or two over and over.


Any theories?

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1984 300CD

You might check the clear plastic fuel lines in the engine compartment to look for signs of air bubbles.
You could also use the hand pump and see if by pumping, you notice any air bubbles going through the clear plastic fuel lines.

You might also consider the technique used for running Diesel Purge directly through an engine:
1. Pour a cup or so of fuel into a container such as a clean and empty mayonnaise jar.
2. Run a hose submerged in said jar to the intake port directly on the injection pump.
3. Place the fuel return hose into said jar.
4. Start the engine and see if it quits or continues to run.

This way, you would be completely bypassing filters and hosing to simply determine whether or not the fuel pump will take the fuel and the engine will burn the fuel and return what isn't used.

You might want to disconnect the vacuum line to the injection pumps shutoff. As soon as vacuum starts to accumulate it shuts the engine off if there is a defect in the shutoff system. I would think it would take more than a second or two but not sure. Although you are starting to make vacuum as soon as you roll over the engine with a good vacuum pump.

Just one possibility of a few.

How about any maintenance that has been done to the car? Besides just changing a filter?

Could be many many and again many different things....

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Some of this may have already been mentioned.
Do one at a time.
Disconnect the Vacuum Line from the Vacuum Shutoff. By doing that you are checking to see if the Vacuum Shutoff Valve on the Steering Colum Lock is function OK.

Remove the Oil Fill Cap and see it that makes a difference. If that helps it is likely your crankcase pressure is not venting out of the breather tubing.

Disconnect the End of the Fuel Return "Cigar" Hose put something under it to capture the Fuel. Once the Engine is running momentarily clamp off the returning Fuel. You are checking to see if raising the Fuel Pressure makes it run normal. If blocking off the return Fuel makes things better it is likely that your Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve is not holding fuel supply pressure.

It still could be that your Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is not working properly as there is 2 Valves inside of the Pump that need to work and the Hand Primer can be the cause of air getting into the fuel.
In the Service Manual there is a flow test and also a pressure test. Unfortunately there is no easy way to connect a Fuel Pressure Gauge and due to pulsation even a liquid filled gauge needle fluctuates.

If you have 1/2 Tank of fuel you can rule out the Fuel Tank Screen as the cause of the issue by swapping the position of the Fuel Return "Cigar" Hose with the Fuel Inlet hose where they attach on the Fender well. That bypasses the Fuel Tank Screen but draws fuel From a higher position in the Fuel Tank (if you drive with the hoses swapped it also means you will run out of fuel sooner then the gauge shows so only do it for the test).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Which is the vacuum shut off line?


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1984 300CD

[QUOTE=ivandrocco;3527599]Which is the vacuum shut off line?

The only vacuum line going to the injection pump on a 240d. Should make it's way back to the firewall.

On my 190D it is brown with a blue stripe. It goes to the injection pump, specifically to a little bump on it with a vacuum nipple on the side.

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'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png

That's the culprit alright. How do I fix it?


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1984 300CD

If pulling off the Brown striped line solved your issue then it is likely the shutoff valve on the steering colum lock is not working correctly. It may need to be cleaned or replaced.

Also be sure to note the positon of the Vacuum hoses on it as it matters where they go.

Note that if you get a new Steering Colum Lock and you buy it as an assembly you get a new Steering Columl Lock+the Vacuum Shutoff Valve+ a new Ignition Switch.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Re read your thread. A serious error I made is I missed you had not changed the main fuel filter. I know it did not turn out to be the issue but should never be taken for granted. They are quite capable of causing many effects.

Just my two cents worth although the cent coinage has been discontinued in Canada. One should always carry a spare main fuel filter in the trunk and the tools to change it. Could save you a lot of money on the road. Include a fuel proof container to hold it in and this container can be used to hold the filter you changed out if proven not the issue. It then becomes your emergency spare.

Another suggestion although I think it probably will not work. Take the end of the Vaccum hose and get a small nozzle on a spay can. Spray some wd 40 into the line.

Crank the engine just enough to get the solvent /lubricant sucked into the ignition vacuum shutoff portion of the switch. It is a very long shot but I would try it. I do mean it is a very long shot though.

Especially since it is a 240d. the few items I mention after this have nothing to do with this problem. Check the fuel supply pressure in the base of the injection pump. Costs little to do and to me at least it is very important. Check the valve clearances if you have no ideal of the last time done as well. Plus the linkage throw to the injector pump.. You want and need all the power you can squeeze out of the 240ds. Not right now but when you have the time the three listed items should really be done if not already.

I will like a dog with a bone mention the fuel pressure check on the 240ds perhaps until I can find some proof otherwise. Low fuel pressure in the base of the injection pump destroys the 616 engines over time in my opinion. Plus has other negative effects.

These few items are reasonably important with these engines. Pretty cheap to check doing them yourself as well.

I figured it wasn't the primary because fuel was flowing freely out the return. I fiddled with the ignition switch and it just started working again. Didn't change anything, just made sure the hoses were attached. Who knows, gremlins.

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1984 300CD

Gremlins in a W123 ignition switch assembly? Empirical results do not support this.
A failing or failed W123 ignition switch assembly can be the start of a fiasco of some substantial significance on these vehicles. What may seem like a relatively small failure is actually a catastrophe in progress or completed. There are threads here and elsewhere on the 'net concerning W123 ignition switch assembly failure (usually the tumbler). Having lived through a full-blown one of these failure episodes after not heeding well intentioned advice to address the failing post haste, I avoid said threads as they can cause unpleasant flashbacks for me.

Usually plugged fuel filters show symptoms at high engine speed and load. At idle, the engine needs very little fuel. You'd first notice a filter at redline and then it would move down the rev range as less and less fuel made it to the IP.

__________________
'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png

... You don't say



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1984 300CD