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  #1  
Old 10-20-2015, 01:48 PM
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Unhappy timing chain guide pin stuck 300 sdl

help! the lower pin on the drivers side timing chain guide is frozen solid. Somebody brilliant tell me how to get it out!

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  #2  
Old 10-20-2015, 02:24 PM
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There are writeups how to make a cheap pin puller. Search timing chain guide replacement.
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2015, 01:50 AM
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What method of removal isn't working for you?

Sixto
83 300SD
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  #4  
Old 10-21-2015, 08:08 AM
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inserted bolt, shimmed to 2 washers short, tightened. this normally works fine just adding washers as pin comes out but whoever did this before drove pin back in until it bottomed out (about 1/8" recess). pulled threads tightening. Going to try drilling corrosion out, threading in bolt with jb weld, making threaded collar out of 3/8 bolt and nut. Let you know how it works. Never had this problem before.
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  #5  
Old 10-21-2015, 04:18 PM
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Worse comes to worse the opposite end of that lower pin can be accessed from the rear by grinding away a small area of the alloy cylinder head on the backside. Then the pin can be tapped to break it loose or driven out towards the front of the engine is the internal threading is completely useless.

I always run a tap down into the pin's threads first and then clean them up before threading whatever puller into them, you want the maximum connection you can achieve on the first attempt to pull it.
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  #6  
Old 10-21-2015, 04:21 PM
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Be sure you are filling all the threads with bolt before trying to pull.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #7  
Old 10-21-2015, 04:43 PM
Diesel Preferred
 
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You need to get at least six threads (six complete 360 degree turns) of the bolt into the pin to get about 95% of the theoretical strength of the pin/bolt combination.

You also need to make SURE your washer assembly or whatever is dead flat so the bolt pulls directly out and not to the side at all.

Heat can always help. Plug in the block heater for an hour, apply the blue wrench to the area. Once the head is nice and hot (and the hole is as big as possible) try rapidly cooling the pin and then pulling it out. Canned air, turned upside down, shoots out very cold liquid. Be careful of freezer burns!
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopKnot View Post
Worse comes to worse the opposite end of that lower pin can be accessed from the rear by grinding away a small area of the alloy cylinder head on the backside.
I did that to access the back side and drive it out with a punch. I then replaced the pin with a hardened bolt and lock nut.

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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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