Brake pads - Need quick verification
 

Hey all,

I'm in the process of replacing the calipers and accessories on my '85 300D(in addition to the flex plates, trans mount bushing, wheels bearings, etc..). I believe what I have are the ATE calipers. The logo is faint, but I'm hoping someone can confirm.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...026_141846.jpg

Secondly, I ordered a set of ceramic pads from Advance as I don't think I saw them in the Pelican catalog. What was sent to me is vastly different than what came off the car. I'm wondering if they're for the Bendix versions? The caliper hardware that came with the new caliper hardware is also different. I haven't compared them side by side yet, but my old calipers had the flat spring, the new stuff is a sort of wire.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...140400_HDR.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...140655_HDR.jpg

I need to order any parts ASAP as I need to use that garage space over the weekend. Any input is appreciated.

Although you did not say so, it appears that you are doing the fronts. Your original caliper is an Ate; the new caliper pictured is a Bendix; the new pad pictured is a rear.

Frank,

Thanks! Is the Bendix caliper able to be used in place of an ATE without modification?

As for the new pad, I must have received some incorrect parts then. The other box of pads, which I'd assumed were the rears, are even smaller and rectangular.

Front pads are in two widths: 77mm & 90mm
Rear pads are one width: 62mm

Perhaps it is an illusion, but the new pad pictured appears smaller than 77mm.

The Bendix will substitute for the Ate, but it is usually recommended that calipers be changed in pairs of the same manufacturer, AND of the same piston diameter; both 57mm, or both 60mm.

Thanks again. The new calipers are identical. I've settled on a pair of OEM compound pads for the Bendix through our host. I'd really wanted ceramic, but cannot find them anywhere.

By the way, I checked my order from Advance and it looks like I did order 2 different sets of rear pads!

Having an issue bleeding the brakes after swapping in the new caliper. I have the hand-vacuum pump. I can pull vacuum but get no fluid coming in. Am I missing something?

Those vacuum bleeders, don't work worth of crap....What happens is they suck air from the bleeder screw....you'll need to bleed the old fashion way, but make sure you use a block of wood under the peddle, to keep the peddle from hitting the floor....Or get a pressure bleeder...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...r/European.jpg
Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-0100

One cool feature of our cars...
Fill the reservoir, FULL to the brim, then open a bleeder. Gravity will fill the pistons, and push out the air through the open bleeder.

One caliper at a time, keep the reservoir full.

Remove the bleed nipples and apply grease or antisieze to the threads then reinsert and vacuum bleed this has always worked and is simple to vacuum bleed.

There must be something wrong, then. I left the bleeder open overnight just to see what would happen and the resevoir is still totally full. Do I need to start the engine and pump a bit to get things moving through?


I did rub some grease at the base of the hose and nipple to help seal. It's got a seal and will hold vacuum, but nothing is coming through the lines. No air, no fluid.

No need to run the engine. All my cars are the same process, even those w/ ABS. Many swear by gravity bleeding, but I never tried it. I use a vacuum bleeder, with a little silicone grease on the nipple threads, but I also have my wife work the pedal. I think stroking the MC helps free and flush any rust in the bore, and the velocity thru the tubes help flush. Even w/ grease, I still get a few bubbles sucked past the threads, so flushing until I see no more bubbles is futile. I may never bleed my 300D's again since I switched to silicone fluid.

If you still get nothing out the nipple even pushing the pedal, it could be clogged w/ rust. My 1982 Aries was like that (PO's did little maintenance). I had a helper jam the pedal w/ both feet, then a bunch of rust blew out of the caliper and it flowed free then. I should have completely removed the nipple. After that, I started reading up on silicone.

Are you making sure, that the reservoir cap isn't on the reservoir before you start the bleeding?

Yes, the cap was off. I did leave the basket in to keep debris out.

For what it's worth, when I pulled the line out of the old caliper, the caliper itself leaked some fluid but the line didn't drop any. I do have new lines on order. If it were a clog, do they typically get caught up in the hard or soft lines?

Never introduce petroleum products into the brake system. It will destroy the rubber components. If you want to use this method, only use silicone paste.

My new driver's wheel hub comes into today so I'll be able to place the new bearing and get it on the car. My correct pads should be delivered today or tomorrow. I'll put them in and try bleeding the old fashioned way as suggested by Bill Grissom. I also ordered new rubber lines for all 4 corners.

Hope everything works out... I hate having to drive my AMG every day for work.