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Importance of Fuel Filters
Familiar with gassers but not diesels, just purchased an '82 auto 240d and drove it home 3 hrs through very hilly terrain in SW Wisc. and into NE Iowa. Rust-free and excellent condition, 140k mileage were pluses, literally an older ladies car who left it to a friend a year+ 1/2 ago. Nonetheless, I began to have some serious buyers remorse that sank in as I hit the "hills" around DuBuque and up and along the Mississippi.. I knew the car was underpowered but as everyone zipped by, I lost serious speed 25% into a hill and slowed to 20mph near the top of the hill. The car was winding high revs but alas no power. It also felt like the trans was slipping. Everyone else zipped by me as I struggled up in the right lane.
Today, I quickly got my hands on a new filter set, installed them and now love the car! i went back to the last 'killer' hill near home that I struggled up at 20mph yesterday (with a parade of cars behind) and it took the hill at 50-55 mph today. What a difference and thank God for these forums with such abundant info! Question is, what do you think I should change next- trans flush/filter, oil change, air filter, valve adjust, anything I missed? Thx |
#2
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if you have zero maintenance history, the best bet is to change all the fluids, and install fresh filters.
do you still have the clear fuel filter? look in it for crunchies... if it's full of clear slime, your tank may have bad fuel in it. diesel gathers critters that will break down the fuel and form asphalt that will clog your tank filters. that's a priority. next, I'd pull the oil, transmission fluid *(and that includes draining the torque converter), brake fluid, and power steering fluid (this also has a filter in the reservoir). get all those changed, and you will be more cofident with your car. air filter, and valve adjust is also important for a smooth running car. the fuel pressure is known to cause problems with the 240, that results in a bad $1 cylinder, so get that checked as well. lastly getting the accelerator linkage well adjusted is wise.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#3
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Adjust the valves FIRST.....
this is not a hard choice because if the valves get too tight then you can BURN a valve... this is a huge expense to fix...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#4
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Quote:
Diesel Fuel has more stuff in it then Gasoline does that needs to be filter out even when it is clean. You can get contaminated diesel fuel right from the Pump that can actually stop yo somewhere on ther Road (keep a set of filters and O-rings in the trunk). Then there is that fact that stuff can grow in the Fuel Tank and that stuff can easily plug up Filters. If you bought the Car and that Car sat a long time not being used there is an increased chance that something is growing inside of the Fuel Tank.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Congrats on your find. I'm a few months into rescuing a 240D as well... biggest change, hands down was the valve adjustment. I made a list and have been ticking off a few items every other weekend or so. The big ones for me were oil and coolant because I just didn't like the look of either...
vstech is right though, all the filters eventually, and belts as well since they're cheap too. Heck of a list over here. I've seen a couple transmissions die over the years immediately after a fluid flush, so I'm going to start with a partial trans fluid change (leave the torque converter filled) along with a new filter/gasket. Feels safer that way rather than shocking it with a full dose of fresh cleaning/lubricating agents. Probably overly cautious, but I'll sleep better. Mine was shifting terribly when I got it, but it's so dependent on vacuum and throttle linkages, you can't assume the problem in the trans. Every tweak has improved it, even the valve adjustment oddly enough. |
#6
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Quote:
' Shocking ' is something that happens to animals... like Wind Chill... not machines... Change all the fluid and filters.. just like the FSM says to do....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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Makes sense. And the transmissions that died we're likely already a breath away from deaths door anyway, but again, I'll sleep better at least thinking I played it safe.
By the way, what page of the FSM talks about transmission service for potentially 30 year old fluid? |
#8
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Quote:
while the wording "shocking" may not be right for the transmission, I understand that heavily shrunken seals is exposed to massive softeners all at once can lead to them overly expanding, and falling out. a good practice on a leaking system would be to drain out portions of the fluid and slowly introducing the chemicals. I'd drain like 2 quarts, and replace with 2, then 4 quarts and replace with 4 and so on, until the entire quantity of fluid was changed.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#9
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Quote:
Just a new filter made the tranny run smoother and after pushing the carpet away from the kickdown switch I no longer have to manually downshift. What a harrowing 3 hr trip that was home... What a surprisingly well built car though and not a pain to work on. Being an endless tinkerer and perfectionist always ready to get the hands dirty, I think I will be a good owner for "Gretel" as I now call her.. Since it is rust free I was going to have the wax sprayed in the panels but the manual alluded to the fact they surprisingly did this at the factory? Dont see that any more.. |
#10
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Quote:
there is no evidence of ' massively shrunken seals' or' massive softeners' .. only good new trans fluid replacing really old trans fluid....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#11
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I've heard enough tales of transmissions failing after a fluid change to believe there's something there. I don't agree with any of the armchair analysis, and I don't know of any serious post-mortem, but it certainly seems to happen.
My 190D doesn't have a torque converter drain plug for some reason. So what I do is suction the transmission pan out every time I change engine oil...about two quarts comes out. That's what I put back in. Change the filters once every great while. The original transmission made it to 320K miles with this routine, I don't see a lot of them lasting longer than that. |
#12
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Quote:
to a Causal Relationship..... that is why double blind studies and control groups are used when testing all sorts of things.
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
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Agreed. Just as there's never been a double blind study to prove that jamba juice can fix a transmission by dissolving "varnish".
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#14
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My Dad used to say, just because lunch comes after breakfast does not mean that lunch is caused by breakfast.
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Baton Rouge, LA 1977 300D Non-Turbo |
#15
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Transmission fluid changes don't kill transmissions, but a flush can.
Do it the right way, drain and drop the pan, drain the TC, change the filter and fluid (and if it isn't shifting well this is a good time to change whatever cheap and easy valve-body or piston parts are sooo accessible at that point). A flush can overfill/underfill while the car is running and is a transmission rebuilder's best friend as they are known by these same people to be great business-builders.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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