OM617 vacuum T - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

HarvAMG · #1 10-28-2015, 10:59 PM

My mechanic was doing some maintenance on my OM617.950 and broke the first T that comes up from the vacuum pump. He managed to glue it back together but it still didn't have enough to shut off the car. He redid it and managed to get it back to normal but I'm still wary of it last in the frigid cold temps to come.

I've been digging around EPC but can't find the part number. I assume I can just buy that entire T and swap out it's entire length.

Here's what I'm talking about.

jabstick420 · #2 10-28-2015, 11:54 PM

1234305829
Brake booster line

mannys9130 · #3 10-29-2015, 06:13 AM

In the shop I worked at, I ripped a door handle off a car by accident (it was sun rotten), had one of my techs remove the trans filter instead of the oil filter on a Saturn, had one of my tech break a wheel stud with his impact gun, had a tech blow a wheel cylinder apart due to improperly assembled drum brake shoes, and had a tech not bleed the cooling system on a FWD car before rolling it out.

Every single one of those things was fixed on our clock and with parts out of our wallet. It happens, but if you break it you really should fix it and not half ass try to jury rig it with glue... Tell your mechanic to buy a new one. His laziness became his demise. If the line was in his way, he should have removed it. 19mm wrench on both ends, bam bam done. Easier than other makes with a clamp where you gotta dork around with pliers. He cut a corner and he needs to buy a new line.

Mxfrank · #4 10-29-2015, 07:22 AM

The shop owes you a new brake vacuum hose, not just a new tee. The tee can't be replaced easily, because the hose is shrunk onto it.

dieselbenz1 · #5 10-29-2015, 09:32 AM

Glueing it and calling it a fix is not right. You will really panic once it lets go especially in traffic. Your car is 30 years old so plastic breaks. If you have a good relationship with him offer 50/50 on a replacement line and he installs it free. Both of you should be happy with something like that and he will welcome you back for further repairs. Finding a mechanic to work on these cars is slowly becoming a challenge.

mach4 · #6 10-29-2015, 10:03 AM

I'm going to take a different view on this one, though I generally agree with the principle expressed. That nipple is so fragile at this point due to age and heat, "normal" contact could easily break it. If that's true it should have already been replaced or on the list for replacement. Sure, if we look at the event in a cause and effect manner, the mechanic "caused" the breakage, but if we look at it in a more comprehensive way, age and heat "caused" the fitting to break.

This is exactly the reason I enjoy working on my own car, but don't work on friends cars...stuff happens that's no ones fault, but blame is nevertheless assigned.

By the way, fittings can often be found at the junk yard (though the same brittleness is likely) and regular 5/16 fuel line works perfect. The only tricky thing is cutting the fittings from the nylon hose without damaging them. Just go slowly and use a sharp knife. I try to keep a couple on hand for just these situations.

leathermang · #7 10-29-2015, 10:21 AM

Like Manny said... this is why no one will promise to take out an old windshield without breaking it.... there is no correct way to make sure it does not break due to fragility due to aging.

Are we all so FUDDY DUDDY and Ancient that none of us have a 3d printer to run off a few of these ?

I read all sorts of forecasts about 3d printing which I do not believe.... but am Trying to keep an open mind....

In Peter Diamandis' book ' BOLD' he describes the new interconnected world we live in where parts of jobs can be outsourced to already existing websites....where people bid on what they will charge for providing their expertise...

So lets break this down into steps...
Can any of our members produce a 3d digital drawing in Sketchup of this ' T ' fitting ?

I have read that if one has THAT.... then some UPS stores have the digital printers which could make ' it '..... assuming the proper plastic is an option...

ALL Students at UT Austin have access to 3d digital printers ..... they do not have to be in the engineering college, etc..

HarvAMG · #8 10-29-2015, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jabstick420

1234305829
Brake booster line

Thanks, but that isn't what the 116 is showing. Mine had many more T's in the line. Maybe the 123 line is different.

The whole actual line is the brake booster, but not that specific T that is broken. The only thing that it caused was not being able to turn off. That actual line that comes off the T runs up to a 4-way of vacuum hoses.

I've driven if while it was broke and everything worked fine.

toomany MBZ · #9 10-29-2015, 02:52 PM

Part #617 230 05 56, according to the epc.

Punch that number in here, it comes up line intake manifold (?) for $11.50.

BillGrissom · #10 10-29-2015, 03:17 PM

I see those broken often, so don't blame the mechanic. When one of mine broke, I didn't even consider buying a new booster/check valve tube ($60?). Instead, I just inserted a copper tube stub (1/16"OD?) and glued w/ plastic epoxy. I drilled the hole bigger to fit. Has worked fine for ~5 years, so will do again when the next ones break (looking brittle). If the whole part fails, I would likely just re-plumb using standard generic parts. I recall seeing in-line booster check valves in the Help bubble packs.

mannys9130 · #11 10-29-2015, 07:15 PM

Like I said, as a tech I look for things that are in my way and I look for things that are particularly fragile. If they are both in my way AND fragile, they are removed on principle so I don't break them. It's just common sense. You break it, you buy it. It really sucks when you got a car in your bay, you're fighting book time tooth and nail to just break even, and then you go and break something. Makes you want to put your ratchet through the windshield.

Light a fire under his ass if he doesn't respond to polite questioning. The 50/50 suggestion would be very fair and is polite.

HarvAMG · #12 10-29-2015, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mannys9130

Light a fire under his ass if he doesn't respond to polite questioning. The 50/50 suggestion would be very fair and is polite.

I would if I could find the part. Finding 123 and 126 ones are easy. 116, not so much.

The 116 part has 3 t's and 2 check valves.

mannys9130 · #13 10-29-2015, 10:28 PM

Hmm. Give the Mercedes Classic Center a call and make sure you have your VIN or some ID ready. They can locate and supply some parts that are very hard to find normally.

HarvAMG · #14 10-30-2015, 12:16 PM

Called the Classic Center and ordered it. $125.

Couldn't of been a nicer and more knowledgeable guy. Said he knew 116s and 123s quiet well.

funola · #15 10-30-2015, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

I see those broken often, so don't blame the mechanic. When one of mine broke, I didn't even consider buying a new booster/check valve tube ($60?). Instead, I just inserted a copper tube stub (1/16"OD?) and glued w/ plastic epoxy. I drilled the hole bigger to fit. Has worked fine for ~5 years, so will do again when the next ones break (looking brittle). If the whole part fails, I would likely just re-plumb using standard generic parts. I recall seeing in-line booster check valves in the Help bubble packs.

1/8" o.d. copper pipe. I put some threads on the pipe with a die, drilled and tapped the broken plastic nipple and installed it with epoxy= good as new.