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Old 10-30-2015, 09:47 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 125
changing SDL oil pan, on a lift,

changing SDL oil pan, on  a lift,-p1080970.jpegfinally my wife gifted me with a car lift,

space under the SDL 70", i am happy+ my neck and back,

went and bought two high jack stands HF for safety, they go 90" high,

now i need to change the dripping oil pan+engine mounts,

does anybody did on a lift instead of a engine lift, and crawling under the car,

i got spoiled,


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Old 10-30-2015, 10:43 PM
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 49
" my wife gifted me with a car lift"

She got a sister!!!!????? ha ha ha

The most important issue with changing the pan is getting the engine high enough off the cross piece that runs under the engine more so than the access to the space underneath usually. Your going to have to figure a way to lift and support the engine while you stand around underneath trying to maneuver the old pan out and a new pan in.

You need to fabricate some sort of support structure across the top of the engine bay, lift the engine and secure it, then lift the entire car on her lift MAKE SURE YOU LOWER THE HOOD BEFORE YOU LIFT THE CAR TO THE TOP!!!

At least remove the engine driven fan and clutch but maybe even the radiator because you don't need to have the canted engine parts hitting the radiator because the engine can only be lifted so far without titling a good amount. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the tranny cross member. That prevents the tranny mount from being an anchor point causing more tilt at a sharper angle.

Get a good quality 5 mm Allen tool as the bolts holding the pan in place are most if not all are Allen head machine screws, make sure you've got a couple strategies for getting those bolts out when and if the head strips. Before you wrench on these 5 mm bolts clean the openings in their head with Both a pick and some spray solvent, place the tool in the bolt head and give it a sharp wrap with a hammer. That makes sure the tool is fully seated and the force of that shock will help break the bolt threads break free a bit easier.

Don't forget to disconnect the engine shocks try not to bugger their mounts unless you've got a couple hundred for new ones if you can find them. Order a new plastic plug for the tranny/flywheel access opening in the oil pan, the old one will be gone or will disintegrate when you attempt to remove it. Be careful with the tranny cooler pipes that run along and are fastened to the oil pan on either side of the engine, don't forget a gasket for the turbo drain to the oil pan, disconnect the drain at the pan that way you don't disturb the O-rings that seal it together.
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:20 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beachwood, NJ
Posts: 462
On some cars taking the oil pump off with the pan helps.

1987 300SDL
1991 300SL
1990 560SEL
2001 ML320

1969 200D 1979-82
1983 300SD 1984-85
1972 250C 1982-02
1995 S350 2011
1997 S320 2012
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Old 10-30-2015, 11:33 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 125
thanks for the Q. reply,she has a sister,

they are from Scandinavia,

i am not allowed to see her sister,that's how beautiful she is,

might put a 2x20 across and i have a chain hoist to keep the engine up,

with half closed hood,

half way up,

plan B stay on the ground with engine hoist,

some suggested to lift with a jack on the Transmission housing,and on the crank ??????!!!!!

wonderful forum,good people

Last edited by rreeuuvveenn; 10-31-2015 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:48 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 20,323
Originally Posted by rreeuuvveenn View Post
some suggested to lift with a jack on the Transmission housing,and on the crank ??????!!!!!
I don't know about a 603 but on the GM 6.5 Diesel it's common practice to lift the engine by the crank damper. I can't get myself to use a moving part as a lift point.

83 300SD
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Old 10-31-2015, 07:23 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 125
Thanks Sixto, looks like bell housing+crank dumper to lift,

will keep posting the progress
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:54 AM
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 49
If you mean lift from below with the car up on the lift using the HF tall jack stands you might run into a problem with the jack up under the crank when it comes to getting the old pan out and the new one in, with the jack 1/2" from the front of the pan, no? with the engine lifted high the front of the pan must drop a good bit to clear the oil pump intake and then removed towards the front to get it out of there.

maybe lift the car, get the engine unfastened from the frame all around, lower the car onto a crib made of 8" X 8" X 6' landscape timbers piled 4 foot high(throw a couple pieces of old carpet on the top ones that contact the car's underbody and they should stay clean enough where you can return them the Home Depot it you can't use them around the yard afterwards) , then use the lift to raise the engine as high as it can go. I would use the lift points as designed on that engine, the hole at the front of the cylinder head casting and the lifting bale bolted to the #6 intake runner.

break out the old milk crate or stool on wheels so you can work sitting down underneath the car.

You can unclip the oil cooler from its upper mounts and remove the figure 8 rubber mount, that way the oil cooler can hang down and you won't have to worry about pulling on its hoses/lines when lifting the engine. check around the engine that you have enough slack to the alternator wiring, the AC hoes , etc. before lifting the engine up.
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
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making good valid point, to be continue

making good valid point, to be continue
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Old 10-31-2015, 11:35 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,847
If you have a mean to lift the engine with the car on the lift then by all means use the lift. You need to lift the engine to get to the a few bolts and slide the pan out. I would lift the engine with an engine hoist, undo the bolts underneath the cross member FIRST then lift the car to undo the rest. Then lift the engine again to slide out the pan with the car lowered Good luck.
Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details.

2 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 125
changing SDL oil pan, on  a lift,-pan-off-jack-screw.jpg

changing SDL oil pan, on  a lift,-pan-off-lift.jpgafter more than two year with JB weld patch on the oil pan crack,

went ahead,and change the oil pan on the lift,without engine picker,

+ used two very long blots (about 8") to substitute the engine mounts alan bolts,

so when i put back the engine it went back to the same place,

went smooth,

see pictures attached
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changing SDL oil pan, on  a lift,-oil-pan-replace.jpg  

Last edited by rreeuuvveenn; 03-22-2016 at 12:38 AM.
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