Nate, ya you got that right, do it once, do it right, and she will run a long time w/o major problems.

Patch em up just enough to get by, and they will be coming back complaining what a POJ these cars are.


Charlie


sent from my pos computer

Not to derail this thread, but the only drawback, if you can classify it as such, is that memory foam behaves like memory foam. When you get up up from the seat, the seat does spring back into shape, but it does so slowly, like memory foam is apt to do. Kind of weird to watch it happen in a car, but like I said, after a moment, it does regain its shape - just not instantly.

I'll be happy to provide long term updates on these seats if possible, but it just goes to show that you can fix up these seats cheaply if you're willing to make some compromises. If one does use memory foam, I recommend looking for a used (but clean) pad on Craigslist. They tend to age well and are worthless used. I got mine for free. As it was going to be covered in relatively thick MB-TEX, I wasn't worried about using used foam.

For what it's worth, I learned the techniques I used from my father, who's a professional antique furniture upholsterer (not automotive) with over 50 years experience. So, I wasn't just futzing around - I did repairs that I knew had a chance of lasting for many years.

Thanx Charlie ;

I grew up on a Farm where one had to make do with whatever was at hand , that frugality has remained with me my entire life , both as a Mechanic and a Consumer ~ I've always bought others cast offs and returned them to good economical service .

Both my elder Brothers tried to get me into Mercedes Diesels (any Diesel in fact) in the 1970's , I resisted but when SWMBO said ' I want a Mercedes Diesel Car ' I didn't fight it ~ my beloved old 1982 240D is that first one we bought for $1,000 , I've had 5 more and all have been very good cars , I doubt I'll ever sell that first slow pokey '82 sedan with slush box .

Rather well engineered and over the top build quality means they'll go as long as you want them to apart from tin worm and collisions .

Does anyone know the actual color code and name for this car's lovely blue ? . I'm quite fond of Chine Blue but this is sweet too .

Thanks for the tip on the regulator. I'll probably try that. I had a few hours of hope for the alternator this morning. I discovered that the belt was so stretched it was barely doing anything, even when adjusted all the way out. Got a new belt that I could tension properly but still not charging.

Never Forget ~
 

That old Mercedes are simple cars , well designed and better built .

Don't over think things , just dip in and take a look as German cars in general are made to be taken apart further than you can get parts for making them incredibly easy to maintain in a D.I.Y. method .

Is the battery light on the dash lighting up?

If the light on the dash, doesn't light....Then the alternator won't charge....It excites the alternator to start the charging....

There are ground points, that should really be checked and cleaned....That can solve a lot of issues....

Battery to inner fender....Behind passenger headlight....Behind the instrunment cluster, large amounts of brown wires.....One near gear shifter.....One under passenger taillight.....Also a ground strap that runs from the transmission bell to chassis under drivers floor....

The alternator also grounds threw the bracket....If the bracket is corroded....Cover in grease/gunk it won't ground properly...

Battery light on the dash was lighting. Confirmed it was the alternator. Possible replacement of just the regulator and brushes would have done it, but I already had the alternator ordered into my local small town parts store, so I just went with the swap. Replaced and it is charging quite nicely. Did check the grounds and all seemed clean and solid. On the plus side, all was well with the alternator brackets and adjustment mechanism. I understand those can sometimes cause problems.

Thanks again for all the advice. On to the brake booster.

Power Brakes
 

What's the deal with the brake booster ? .

Most often the vacuum pumps valves fail causing hard brakes , easy to fix even using Junk Yard parts in a pinch .

Brake booster seems to be leaking. I have vacuum at the line going to the booster.

As boosters are pretty pricey, I would check the seal between the master cylinder and booster. You may get lucky and that is cracked/rotted...Its like a tenth of the price of a booster...

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 004-997-32-45-MBZ

http://www.mbpartsworld.com/images/p...191.920519.jpg

Sometimes booster repair kits are available.....
I remember fixing one in the distant past.... I remember talcum powder being part of the process....

Check the data plate, the color code on my CD is underlined.

Then click on the link for the name.

Farbcodes

Thought I would give you all an update on what all I've done on the 240D.

First necessary repair was the alternator. I assume the seller must have used a charger to charge up the battery, because the alternator definitely wasn't charging. That was a relatively easy repair, and I was glad it was a bad alternator and not a battery, because the alternator was cheaper.

Next up was the instrument panel lights. Based on research I suspected it was a bad rheostat. I took it apart and cleaned contacts, etc., but it still wasn't working, so I soldered in a jumper wire. Having previously owned a '71 250C, I couldn't ever remember saying "gee, I wish my dash lights were dimmer," so I didn't really mind giving up that function.

Finally, today I did the project I'd been putting off, replacing the brake booster and master cylinder. I had been getting along without power brakes. I planned to replace the MC as well, because i suspected it had been leaking into the booster. Then yesterday I lost pressure in the brakes. I think the MC finally gave out. Anyway, the operation was successful. Hardest part was definitely getting the booster unbolted up under the dash. Now we have good brakes!

New tires on Tuesday and that should be it for a while. Meanwhile, my boys are loving their winter car.

Yea!

240D Up date
 

THANX for letting us know how it's going .

FWIW , the alternators rarely ever give out m, it's just the voltage regulator and brushes , specifically the brushes that go kaput .

$30 +/- , 15 minutes and you're good to go again .

I just did this to my Brother's '87 300SDL , he wanted to argue and fight it needed more $ thrown at it , in the end I told him " fine ~ I'll pay for whatever it takes to fix it if the voltage regulator replacement doesn't fix it " .

Then I gave him a BOSCH branded V.R. , he slapped it in and VIOLA ! not only was it fixed , it now charges 14 + V.D.C. unlike any other branded V.R. so he's butthurt because I was right :rolleyes: .

Brothers , whatare ya gonna do ? :D .

I look for the BOSCH branded ones on sale and keep a couple handy as I have three old Mercedes that use it as does VW . BMW , Volvo , Saab etc. .