needed work: engine mount, shifter bushings and driver's side lower ball joint - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

w123fanman · #31 11-22-2015, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Good to know the pliers work. Did you also get the special tool MS sells for the clip?

It came in the kit. It's just a thick sting strand of copper wire with one end flattened out. It does make those clips less of a hassle to deal with.

funola · #32 11-22-2015, 05:30 PM

Replaced the driver's side mount today. I thought the passenger side was suppose to be easier but that turned out to be not true since the air filter housing had to come off and I tried to save the filter element while pulling it out, spent a lot of time but failed and ended up destroying the element. 2 of the rubber isolator holes on the bracket was also stripped and were just sitting on the bracket. Added lock washers and nuts which is just as good.

Again, had no problems getting the mount bolts off. Driver's side shock has to come out (not passenger side) in order to access the inner 6 mm cap screw, 3/4" long Allen key cutoff was required.

Old mount.

Can anyone tell by the old mount pics if they are the originals when the car was built?

JHZR2 · #33 11-26-2015, 10:16 PM

OT but who is the MB specialist?

funola · #34 11-26-2015, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

OT but who is the MB specialist?

Willy's auto service in Great Neck NY

funola · #35 12-03-2015, 05:09 PM

Needed work all done! Replaced the torn lower ball joint dust boot with a kit from Energy Suspensions 5.13102R $7.99 from Autozone. The kit is for a 74 Dodge Challenger (p/n thanks to BillGrissom!), has 4 boots but only 2 of them fit the lower ball joint.

Job was a breeze with the right tools.
First, pop the upper ball joint with this tool

Remove caliper, outer tie rod arm to steering knuckle (19 mm bolts x2) or pop the tie-rod outer ball joint, after which you can get the knuckle into this position to get the OTC-8149 into position to pop the lower ball joint. (Note: only this position with ball joint facing front of car fits the OTC-8149, if facing the rear, tool will NOT fit)

Next time I would take the nut off the ball joint instead of loosening it partially before pressing the BJ out with the OTC-8149, because I had a hard time getting the nut off because the ball joint was spinning in it's socket. With the knuckle assembly on the ground, took cracked boot off, cleaned and took off boot retainer spring.

Packed boot with grease and installed. I put a little too much grease and the boot is ballooning a bit. The boot is thick and tough and the extra grease will work itself out.

JHZR2 · #36 12-03-2015, 07:58 PM

So the booth as no bottom clamp? Will water get in?

It's not exactly a serviceable joint once back together.

funola · #37 12-03-2015, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JHZR2

So the booth as no bottom clamp? Will water get in?

It's not exactly a serviceable joint once back together.

What do you mean "not exactly a serviceable joint once back together."? You service it the same way.

If you look at the 2nd from bottom pic, there is a lip on the BJ that the boot stretches tight over it, the boot is also much taller than the space available for it so it is squished down and the boot cannot slip off. I don't think water will get in. Time will tell. BillGrissom used the same boot on his. Maybe he'll chime in to let us know how long his has been on.