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  #1  
Old 05-07-2002, 02:01 AM
turbodiesel
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Cracked A-Frame on a 300D?

My diesel addiction got the better of me today, I went to go look at an 85 300D today, the original owner said someone backed up into the passenger side fender and made a dent and broke the turn signal. He said it had about 290K but ran perfectly and he meticulously maintained it.

I got there and sure enough, it needs a new front fender, turn signal and headlight door, not really a big deal.

The funny part was, the drivers side rear tire (just one) had a really bad negitive camber. I was thinking it was parked funny, so i took it for a drive, and let me tell you, this had to be one of the BEST driving 300D's I EVER drove. The front end was brand new, tranny and engine felt like new.

When I get back and just about as I am to make an offer, I look at that wheel again, crawl under to see what is going on and I see the A-Frame is cracked in half, apparently from rust. The thing is, there isnt any rust on the car (a bubble or two in the wheel well).

How much would this be to replace? This car is really really, REALLY nice, one owner and original paint. The inside is near mint, and everything works, even the cruise.

Am I looking at a headache here?

Here are a few pics of the car, sorry I didnt get any more or of the cracked A-Frame.

http://www.zemkowski.com/85300d0/

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  #2  
Old 05-07-2002, 07:32 AM
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turbodiesel,

If you mean the semi-trailing arm on the rear suspension, the replacement is several hundred dollars if you find a junked car with a good piece. I would check the condition of the other side too. My 1982 240D started rusting where the spring is mounted and I did this before the thing broke through, as well as the half shaft at the same time and I recall it was under $350. Jim
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2002, 09:11 AM
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Turbodiesel,

Performance Products (website of same name) has an excellent W123 catalog for about everything on the car. You might give it a look.
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2002, 09:46 AM
NIC
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turbo,

Having just detached my semi-trailing arms to replace bushings, I can tell you that removal/installation is fairly straightforward. Having a lift would make a great difference in effort and frustration level.

I can't believe you would have difficulty finding good used ones. In the south, rust should not be a problem and there a so many 300D's around in salvage yards.

Nic
'85 300CD
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2002, 11:31 AM
HGV HGV is offline
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What do you mean by an a-frame?

Henry
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2002, 12:10 PM
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Yup, that definitely sounds like the rear trailing arm. The driver's side one seems to always rust through and need replacement at some point (unless you live somewhere without road salt). I got mine from Potomac German Auto for about $200 (used, rust free), and had my mechanic replace it for about 2 or 3 hours of labor.

Alex
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  #7  
Old 05-07-2002, 12:54 PM
Fimum Fit
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I have seen several grey market cars from the '80s

(one 450SE and at least one 300SDL) which seemed to have flunked the German TÜV inspection for just this reason and were then dumped on the export market for substantially more than they could have been worth in Germany.
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Old 05-07-2002, 01:48 PM
turbodiesel
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Sorry, I thought that it what it was called.

Its a large metal structure, that is tied to the hub and is holding in the spring. Is this the part you guys are talking about?

So it isn't that expensive to replace? I don't want to try to do it myself because I am intimidated by springs.
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Old 05-07-2002, 02:27 PM
NIC
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turbo,

2 to 3 hours of labor sounds very fair but I was quoted 4 to 5 hours per side. at $75 per hour, thats serious money.

took me several unpleasant hours (I lost track) but got it done. You do have to compress the spring, but not much as the rear suspension, when extended, almost hits the springs limit. unfortunately, the only compresser that will work is that internal type that costs an arm and leg to rent, if you can find one.

You should probably do both sides at same time, replacing bushings, subframe mounts, and rear end mount while you are at it.

Its surprising that they cost so much at salvage.

Nic

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