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  #16  
Old 11-23-2015, 05:24 PM
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You're welcome.

Yeah an unheated garage in Illinois definitely calls for 5W-40 full synthetic.

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  #17  
Old 11-23-2015, 05:27 PM
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So just to the right side of your Midget back wheel.....steel colored..
that is the side of one of those dollies.. one under each wheel from Harbor Freight...
so you can play manual bumper cars inside your garage ?
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2015, 05:53 PM
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Location: Geneseo, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
So just to the right side of your Midget back wheel.....steel colored..
that is the side of one of those dollies.. one under each wheel from Harbor Freight...
so you can play manual bumper cars inside your garage ?
Yep, you spotted them, Greg. $50 a pair at Harbor Freight, two pair needed. They seem to work well, although at 1500 lbs total weight for the Midget, it's not too much of a test. 😉

If I could get rid of the shelves in the middle, i could fit at least one more Midget . . .
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  #19  
Old 11-24-2015, 01:31 AM
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In CA, I use Delo 400 15W-40 in both my MB and my 1997 Chevy 6.5 TD. Highs around 108, lows in the mid 20s. No issues.
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2015, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Don't use synthetic...If there are any leaks on the engine, it will speed up the process as it cleans the engine to well....If the rings are worn, it will also burn the oil a lot faster....

Just use 15w-40....You'll be doing so many oil changes, it doesn't matter if it is the 75$ bottle jug or the 14$ jug....

The oil acts as a detergent....The more often you change it, the more gunk that will come out of the engine...
3k does come up quickly.. Would you go lighter in a midwest winter or would you stick with 15w40?

Never mind, just saw the temp chart you posted...

Last edited by FE240D; 11-24-2015 at 09:22 PM. Reason: Read further
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  #21  
Old 11-24-2015, 09:23 PM
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Location: Alexandria, Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redpeople View Post
Thanks for the advice, all. FWIW, I keep it in an unheated garage. It does get pretty cold here in IL, but not extreme. It has a block heater but I haven't tried it yet.

On a bit of a tangent, I was having a private conversation with another member in which I was discussing the car shuffling I had to do to free up a garage space. I told him I'd attach a picture but couldn't figure out how to do it with a pm so here it is.
Must be NICE to have a garage!

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #22  
Old 11-24-2015, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FE240D View Post
3k does come up quickly.. Would you go lighter in a midwest winter or would you stick with 15w40?

Never mind, just saw the temp chart you posted...
The temp chart demonstrates 5W-40 covering an even bigger temp range than 15W-40, so it should be acceptable for everyone even when 15W-40 isn't. Several people suggest using 5W-40 Rotella T6. Being synthetic, it is a better oil right off the bat, and it has a stronger additive package. You can change the oil anywhere between 3 to 5 thousand miles, but keep in mind that soot builds up quickly in these engines and it is the determining factor most of the time as to when the oil needs to be changed.

Get some T6, a Mann filter, and 2 O-rings for the oil filter cap stem. You'll be fine all winter. If you like the T6, use it year round. You'll actually feel a bit of a power increase by using the 5W-40 instead of 15W-40 molasses. It's thinner and it reduces your pumping losses compared to the 15W-40.
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'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png
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  #23  
Old 11-24-2015, 10:26 PM
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Got the Mann filter today. I'll pick up the oil tomorrow. I need to track down the o-rings you mentioned. I saw those in a video as well.

I'm guessing I probably won't put more than 3-4 k miles on it each year, although I guess I won't know until I get the odometer fixed. ��
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  #24  
Old 11-24-2015, 10:52 PM
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The best thing for the orings, is to buy on of the kits...This way you have enough for a few changes and you be surprised when the rest will come in handy...

225 PC Seal Gasket O Ring Kit O Ring Universal Assorment Metric Sizes Sealer | eBay
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  #25  
Old 11-25-2015, 12:00 AM
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Factory block heaters are very effective because they get the heat where it is needed. If you use one, CHECK the condition of the AC cord, they deteriorate from age, heat and oil saturation exposing bare wire. Check yours to prevent a potential fire and/or electrical shock. The cord is inexpensive and easy to change.
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  #26  
Old 11-25-2015, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
The best thing for the orings, is to buy on of the kits...This way you have enough for a few changes and you be surprised when the rest will come in handy...

225 PC Seal Gasket O Ring Kit O Ring Universal Assorment Metric Sizes Sealer | eBay
Thanks for the suggestion. That answers the question in my mind, which was "is there anything special about these o-rings?" I suspected not.
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2015, 11:22 AM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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DIESEL911 posted this in another thread, I copied and pasted it here....



Change the little 6mmIDx10mmODx2mmW O-rings that are on the bottom of the Oil Filter cap Tube/Stem.
Oil Filter Stem Gaskets O-ring
Oil Filter O-ring/Gasket; For Tube at Oil Filter Canister Lid; 6x10x2mm; Mercedes Part 0159979448
Dorman 172 piece O-ring Value Pack #799-450 has them in it.

Autozone sells a Metric O-ring assortment made by Dorman for less than $8.
Dorman Metric 172 piece O-ring Value Pack #799-450
In it are 24 of the 6mmIDx10mmODx2mmW O-rings that you need for the bottom of the Oil Filter Stem: enough for 12 O-ring changes if you use the same sized O-rings each time you change it.

On 617.952s you can substitute a 7mmx11mmx2mm in the upper groove on the Oil Filter Stem instead of the 6mmx10mmx2mm. If you do that you have enough O-rings for 24 O-ring changes. (This was suggested by another member and I did it and it works; since I bought the kit I do this on mine.)

The 10mmIDx17mmODx2.5mm in the kit fits the bottom of the Fuel Filter Bolt; you get 24 of those in the kit.
The 14mmIDx19mmODx2.5mmW appears to fit the large upper O-ring (if you have the Filter Bolt that takes 2 O-rings) but I have not actually tried that yet.
You get a total of 172 O-rings in various sizes.


Charlie


sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #28  
Old 11-25-2015, 11:30 AM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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I changed the 80 240D over to a synthetic oil at 322K miles. I had no leaks
before the change and no leaks after the change.
Iam using a 15/40 oil, brand isn`t important.

We are up to 385K miles now.

A few days ago I did notice a drip of oil on the garage floor.
Do you think Synthetic caused it. LOL.


Charlie


sent from my pos computer
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #29  
Old 11-25-2015, 02:00 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Olathe, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mannys9130 View Post
I second the suggestion for Rotella T6 full synthetic. Don't listen to anyone who tries to tell you synthetic oil causes leaks. They are perpetuating myths from the 1970s that were not true to begin with.
This is incorrect; I've had leaks, or at least Bigger ones once I made the switch. Go back to conventional oil, and the problem is gone. Many of these folks echo my experience. leaks!...synthetic to conventional at high mileage | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy

The reason? The synthetic motor oil molecule is smaller, making it both more resilient to heat and also more likely to creep out of where it should be. The moral of the story is, don't go to synthetic until you've repaired any and all leaks. It IS a superior oil by all other reckonings.
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  #30  
Old 11-25-2015, 06:05 PM
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Well, the deed is done. Oil changed with Rotella T6 5w-40. When I went to change the o-rings, I thought "there's no o rings on here, just these hard washers". Turns out they were very hard, very square o-rings. Used an xacto knife to carve them out. On to the next project.

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