You bet. Just like brand new. Happy
Thanks for all the help.

Well, one year later and I am back with the same problem. Cannot find a spot near neutral where it will start and am not surprised. Since I replaced the shifter bushings, it has started perfectly and I do not think I have a bushing problem.

So here is the current problem. Glow and turn to start and get only a single click from a relay(?) behind the glove compartment. Try for several days with same result. Then magically it turns over and starts perfectly for a week. Pull it in the garage, go out later and no turn over.

I tried rocking it back and forth in drive to get the starter to move a bit. Nothing. I clonked the starter with a 2x4 and nothing. Left it in drive. Went out today and hit the key and for a second I got a solitary crank from the starter - then nothing. Then I noticed that I had left it in Drive. So I am now wondering - NSS? Why would it even make a crank noise in Drive otherwise?

I have conked the starter a couple of times and the starter did not turn over. No solenoid clicking, just a single click someplace behind the glove compartment. Assume there must be a relay of some sort back there.

NSS?

There's a junction block ahead of the battery and false firewall. Jump the starter pins (third and fifth??) to test the starter downstream of the NSS.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

Just what I was looking for; thanks.

Yep, that worked. Started fine and after turning it off, it started again and again.

So what is the verdict? NSS? Or carry two jump screwdrivers? Could it be a loose wire?

Sixto - wonder why the NSS would sometime work and sometime not? Think I could tighten a wire on it and it would be OK? Never seen the actual switch and wonder how it works.

You might have cleared the starter itself but it could still be a tired key switch.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

Jumped it again this AM but after driving around, it would not start with the key. Think it must be the NSS. Pelican has a VEMO for $23, an OEM for $56, and an original MB NSS for $71.

Do you know anything bad about VEMO?

Is it hard to change out? Looks like there may be shifting rods that go into the NSS and then a female plug. Just guessing. (Key switch is fairly new; was replaced about 20 years ago. )

Rig a test light at the NSS input wire.

The 126 has a fair amount of room to work on the NSS. The shift rod ends at a lever that moves the transmission innards and NSS at the same time. It's the same lever that has the forward shift rod bushing. Once that lever is off, two bolts hold the NSS to the transmission Set the bolts loosely at first to calibrate the NSS. I set the shift lever in R then have someone tell me if the reverse lights are on or off as I find the middle of the on range. Thighten the NSS holding bolts and button up. IIRC the NSS connector has a bayonet locking ring.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

Great; thanks for the help.

Are you sure it isn't a tired key switch? I had this problem recently in the SDL and running the gear shifter through the gears didn't help. Took the switch apart and while the contacts looked fine, the starter contacts had high resistance. Replacing the switch ended my issues. Factory NSS is installed for what it's worth.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Well, not sure. Have a new NSS coming in in a few days. Will report back.

If it turns out the NSS is the culprit, it could be worth your time to do an amp draw test on the starter solenoid, or barring that, test the resistance of the coil. If the coil is partially shorted, or otherwise low resistance, it wouldn't be unheard of for it to overload the contacts in the NSS and/or starter switch. They do tend to fail, but getting a year almost to the day out of a replacement NSS seems a bit questionable.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Did not replace the NSS a year ago; it was a year ago that I replaced the back shifter bushing and that solved the problem. Still have the original 35 year old NSS.

Well, it is a little wet with transmission fluid underneath; something is leaking. What are the chances that all I need to do to the NSS is to open it up and clean off the transmission fluid? Instead of changing out the NSS?

Anyone seen a YouTube video showing how to changeout the NSS?